Brooklyn Beer

They are doing my 31 Franklin shocks. Every shock is different in what it requires so the prices will reflect that

Thankfully this car has not been butchered. I just need to start at the small stuff and go from there. No bulbs in the dash sockets always amazes me as they are 17 cent items !

Jeeze I hate old wiring and this stuff looks original. Yes there are the running lamps in the head lights and thye do work with the tail light. I just have not had time to jump the wires at the switch to start going in the direction.

I have a feeling this will be a long hunt

Like this ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-1930-s-Carter-Carburetor-DRT-08-Updraft-Dodge-Nash-Mopar-NOS-Flawless/274005749569?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160323102634%26meid%3D4a0aa229987c47a89d42e9d1f0902bb0%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D233313193975%26itm%3D274005749569%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1

a list price of 20 bucks? I'll take 5 !

Yep, this is surely not the carb I have

So should I static time with the distributor mounted snug or leave the advancement bolt loose? And I am guessing that when I rotated the distributor clock wise within the advancement parameter I actually retarded it some and if I instead move it counter clock wise I would be advancing it? Starting was not difficult at all in the way i have it. Car just seemed weak. I have a vac gauge on the way.

So then let me ask if I did the right thing by turning the distributor in the clockwise direction within the allowable moveable area that would be dictated by the vac control? Or should I have turned in counter clockwise?

OK, here is the carb that is in there. RJH 08. Dead wrong there. I do not think the vac control is working anyway as removing the vacuum from it did nothing. So I turned the distributor clock-wise within the parameters of the hold down and tightened it down so the distributor would not move. Pulled choke out and it started much, MUCH easier and went to an idle faster. I ran around and increased the idle a little bit as it was needed. It seems to run pretty good (Except of course the major exhaust leak at the flange itself. It doesn't stumble giving it gas but still feels like it is still lacking power. The temps actually came down as well. (60 here right now and I think no thermostat in it as it stayed around 155-160) Took it for a run down the 1 mile hill I live on (freewheeling works) and back up and I didn't have to downshift to second to get back up. It is a pretty good hill and sure was a test for it. I am going to call this a minor victory and now move it down to the lower garage to do the manifold gaskets and move the Franklin up the hill to the lift to change out the gear oils. I do have a vid of it running after I did these too it but too large to load here if you'd like to hear it and see it my email is chrisgiddyup06@aol.com

Sounds good. Someone out there has to have one

With the help and input from many fine folks it has been determined I have the wrong carb on my 31 Plymouth PA. It is an earlier carb without the proper ported vacuum needed to properly run the distributor advance. I am needing a Carter DRT-08 209 S. Can anyone help? Leads or other wise.

So what will you need to see to determine if I have the proper distributor and can just plug the vacuum advance at this time ?

The car is a PA. I am just going off many posting in the plymouth community about using a BB1

Yep. I was feeling around behind the carb and just not feel anything. Found my little mirror last night so will do a little more investigating and see if there is a plug (should be) I do have a manual but it is a 32 first edition "New Finer Plymouth" I don't think I have an open port. Today I will spray around the carb with it running and see if I have any vac leaks.

I have no brake light but have a tail light. What is the proper procedure for testing the switch at the master and at the socket ?

The car is running and driving but I don't think I am getting enough fuel. Power feels lacking. I don't feel a vacuum port plug on the engine side of the carb.

I could not feel a port. Would not mind buying a correctDRT-08-209s and keeping this one as a spare.

Is the piece in the clamp a "T" flange that bolts to the manifold or is it just a flared end? Mine rattles around and can be pulled down about 3/8 of an inch

Yep, If you know the size a repair piece that is swedged is what I really need or maybe I can find a coupling to weld on what you have there..

Well I think this carb is screwed looking now closer at the ACC pump. The hand throttle barely moves at all. This carb is leaking from the shafts as well. Here is the best picture of the tag. I do not see any vacuum plug for ported vacuum either.

All I need is the flange and a short section. Wagner makes them in different sizes and I can weld that on here. Just need to know the size of the pipe and flange.

Have a Dorman cable coming just to get a hand throttle hooked up. Thankfully choke is still hooked up.

I am about to go out and look at this but it does resemble it from memory. How does pulling the cable move anything ? and is that the vacuum port I see on the left ?

Can someone tell me the size of the exhaust pipe / flange that mates to the manifold? Mine is cracked and not doing much good and I would like to buy just a repair section with flange and weld in the new section myself.