Brooklyn Beer

Let the secret out? For over 40 years I have collected antique beer and soda cans and up until last month we cleaned them with Oxcalic acid. Great on rust. Well tomorrow in goes some cans made in 1939 to new evapo-rust that I dug in a farm dump some 35 years ago just to see what will happen. I really can't believe that a car that could not idle for 10 minutes without getting into scary land now stays at 160 just after running this stuff for about 3 weeks. i was hoping for 7 weeks but early freeze this year. So now it is about 50-50 mix and will let it do it's work all winter and see what happens comes late spring. That mix gets it at -10 so fine for TX. My 46 Dodge will get the same treatment next week.

Drained. Installed a 160 thermo (TX after all). Back flushed tonight and not much scale flakes at all came out. The mixture though of a 1/3 coolant and 2/3 evapo was black. Refilled with 1 gallon evapo rust and 1 gallon concentrated old school glycol. Topped up with 50/50. Ten mile drive followed. Never tried to get hot and the heat coming out was enough to melt your feet. I can tell you without a doubt the evapo-rust scrubbed the heater core clean for sure. Tomorrow we get inspected and a set of new shoes. New shocks and general lube and maintenance. This old girl needs to get driven (legally) a lot more for sure. It runs and idles as good as my new Tundra when warmed up. The choke coil heat mechanism needs a replacement though if anyone knows of a source. It is a bear until it gets warm without a hand choke.

Interesting and thank you!

Well after running straight evapo-rust as coolant now for 4 weeks it has turned black and the outside temps are dictating I remove it. Thermostat is removed at this point. Best place to install the T for the hose connection to back flush? Just prioer to the water pump on the heater return line? Thermo is removed. Have 300 foot of black garden hose to lay out in the sun for the job. By the way after running straight evapo-rust for 3 weeks the car quit getting hot. Looking at the color of it now (black) I am sure I need to do again in the spring or perhaps mix it 50-50 with coolant so it continues to work through winter as it should get me to -10 with straight coolant added. Perhaps I will not have to remove the water distribution tube after all. The first 4 days I saw no noticeable changes in temps. At Idle it would start to peg. Driving decrease. Then daily it started coming down to now it is hard to get the motor to warm up without the thermo installed. Previous owner gave up on it after new radiator, water pump and thermo. Before this he had done all the brake cylinders and brakes and master. He could not get it to run normal temps. So he basically gave away this 53 Cranbrook. I am sold on Evapo-rust from here on out !

And what is the purpose for doing that ?

Tried a vacuum pump on each cylinder? Since I am always working by myself it is a great thing for doing brakes.

So we had our last nice 70 degree day for a week so off I went to top up the 49 Roadmaster before cold hit. Nice leisurely pace. Had the 31 Franklin out before this so a whole new set of noises to listen for. At about 30 mph heard this noise. And we all know that feeling of RAPIDLY identifying that noise as it bounces off the bottom of the car a few times. OK, That wasn't a rock or gravel or wood but sounded metallic, was that me?" Instantly looking out the rear view i see some part bouncing down the road so i coast to stop. Turn around. OK, no odd noises stopping or turning. Car is running fine. Pull over and get out and find a sway link with one bushing still on laying in the road. Evidently the top nut came off. Bushing looks real good. So I gingerly eased her the one mile home and ordered a new set. Fun stuff hearing it bounce off the bottom of the car a few times ! Question. Best position to have the car in to replace? Can I let the front hang with frame on jack stands? What is a good procedure to replace it?

Three on the Tree floor shift is always good.

Why I scooped up the 6 that ran great but not cool. I think I have 3 more weeks to leave the evapo-rust in it before I have to do the coolant swap. If it didn't do the trick (It runs and drives at 160-170 without a thermo but at idle still starts to warm up) I will yank the tube distributor and see what i got. It just drives too good and tight with pull and power not to keep this old girl going and the fix is not that expensive at all. The money was already spent by someone else on the new radiator and water pump, and brakes front to back.

They were so low to the ground that at every turn above 5 MPH they dragged the road. First time it happened I thought I ran over a homeless guy and was dragging him.

Found it just north of Dallas in Anna. Guy gave up on it.

why is a towing company running a federal auction ?

Show the guy what 8500 just bought and offer him 4. It might give him a dose of reality. It is a 50's four door sedan. OK, I found this local for 1700 and am working out some over heating issues but it runs tops with a new radiator, brakes, water pump and carb. YES, 1700 for an original car. Rock bruised, a bunch of dings, some bubbling of the paint over the wheel wells. Just your basic 4 door 1953 Plymouth that runs, drives and stops and which now runs fine at 170 with no thermo installed. Will need 200 in tires and a little coolant area work to complete but ? These are out there. (Yes, I removed the J C Whitney gravel flaps)

After that vac switch hanging up too many times to count away it went. I found it really cool till the mad dash around the car to yank the terminal off the battery as the starter would not shut off.

Clear title. I had it registered in TX 45 minutes after delivery which 20 mins of that was the safety inspection and 15 more waiting in line at DMV. Sub courthouse and DMV is across the street from inspection. Life in a town of 3500 is great. I actually drove the car the to DMV to get it registered. She asked if that was it in the parking lot as she watched it drive in. If you have insurance it is about all the sheriffs department here cares about. But no title I would knock it down another 1 k. Surely a title was issued on that year?

Looking at what the old water pump had in it and the thermostat rusted shut I am betting the tube is equally as bad. But going to let the evap do it's job until it gets too cold then will drain and yank the water pump.

If the evapo rust doesn't do the trick I will pull the new water pump the previous owner installed and see the condition of it. Heck, he might of pulled it and never put back? Either way the evapo rust should make that job easier I would hope. Is there anyone repo'ing the tube? Doesn't look like to hard of a job to yank it unless it is rusted in.

This would be a good family car but if your holding it up to comparison to the one I just got then 3 k needs knocked off the price just by the sellers description

Motor has never been out of the car and runs like a swiss watch. Just was getting warm at idle. getting better by the day though with evapo-rust as coolant

Best pre-war here in this area in TX is a 32 ford FIBERGLASS BODIED with a 798.2 big block, end of the world blower with 12 -7/8 th rear with a dual posi action overdrive traction lock with a factory temp gauge. . MAN THOSE ORIGINAL GAUGES ROCK ! My 49 Roadmaster lost best restored original to one of these. Not kidding. I envy you

One backfire from a bad valve and the shrapnel takes out 15 kids waiting for the school bus like an IED

Great. Another old Mopar that fits the bill here. I need the number of his exhaust guy. The hardware store is out of worm gear clamps and I think he has them all

those drums going back and evidently 67 coronet FRONTS are correct. 62-64 880's were half Chrysler and everything else till 65 when they gave up on it halfway through the year. 8- 3/4 rear with 2-1/2" shoes , 11 inches. Trying raybestos

something else I will dig into. on the list of things to do ! First getting the parts chaser back on the road. Thought I had the 63 Dodge 880 fixed this morning but opposite of what I was "PROMISED" from one of the C body boards, 1966 Monaco rear drums do not fit a 63 880. grr. Too deep x 1/16 inch. Perfect fit but tighten up the lugs and the wheels don't turn ! And according to Dodge, every once in a while a rear with 11 inch brakes made it onto a car instead of the 10's. Guess which one I got.

He said he has a few more that he is not parting with yet. Sold a few already. Didn't really seem too keen on offering up anymore then that. This car is really mostly original down to the window felts which are in very good shape. The flip up window crank handles are flawless and the windows go up and down better then the ones I restored in my 46 Dodge. One odd thing though about what Chrysler did. When you roll down the rear windows the chrome across the top is attached to the roofline where as the front has the chrome attached to the window frame and comes down with the window leaving a chrome-less gap over each door when the windows are down. One other thing is the push up cowl vent rod is not attached to the handle even though everything is in place.