Brooklyn Beer

So today with new distribution in hand I set out to replace the one that was installed in the hopes of correcting the overheating problem. Removed the water pump and thankfully saw a tube in good condition. Read about nightmares trying to get out rusted up ones. Looks like evapo rust did some good work. With my handy dandy homemade removal tool I grabbed the first slot of the tube and rigged to a ratchet strap and a deadman, I set to pulling.

The Fisher body plant back in the day must have been an incredible place to watch craftsman at work. I am guessing they had specialized area's of who built what pieces as well as assemblers. Folks who knew how to build this stuff is why so many "Sears Homes" were able to be sold and built by their owners back then. One day I will take on a project like this. Already built my own house !

Love the car Ron. I might have to add on the new garage already. I just traded my 80 Z28 for this Desoto's little brother in the same color combination in the form of a 31 Plymouth. . The next car on the list is a Desoto. Thanks for sharing. Hope one as nice as this is around when I am ready. Can I ask if there is any evidence of the car once being pin stripped?

What would have the wood joinery been back at this time? Dowels?, biscuits? Mortise & tenon? And when redoing wood such as this what is the recommended ?

Have you checked with a laser thermometer down the length of the block? The evapo rust has a freeze point close to water so unless it is in a heated garage you can't run it straight except in Summer. I have been told by more then a few folks that they have run it all summer with no problems. It goes in clear and when it turns black it has done all it can do and must changed to fresh. The first go round I drove the car only 200 miles that week before it went black. I had to do that twice before freezing temps has me running it 50-50 that combined with straight uncut anti-freeze has me at -10 until I decide to yank the tube. The stuff is best circulated at temperature regularly to keep things moving and helps it work faster when at operating temp. I know I could not go 12 miles without the car getting into overheat range before the evapo rust and now I can drive it into work as long as it stays below 80. The tube will be changed out soon as I am pretty sure there is nothing left of the back of it where the temp sender is now. The front of the block is staying at 170 but back there it hits 205 if you idle it for more then 10 minutes.

The Chrysler Heritage link is dead. I will have to request by snail mail

Well that just linked me to the site I already found and I see nothing about anything historical

Found the site but found nowhere on that site to request anything even remotely historical in nature

how does one go about getting the build card?

The car has factory freewheeling but would need to see if the wire wheels were sold on the car because the thrift model had wood wheels. Looking at the paint chart I am thinking of doing the pinstripe as from factory with the stripe matching the wire wheel color. Is anyone familiar with what the Vermilion red paint code is today that would match? I do a search and it comes up Ford. Crown Maroon (IM-1129) Black (LE-30VV) Vermillion [Ditzler Undated] and [Buton 2001]

Was it very common to build cars in a previous year and then title them the following year? Can we tell if this is the motor that came with the car?

OK, got it PA 40520. What does that tell you ?

You know I was just thinking about getting on and posting an update after taking her on friday beer run before rain comes back in. So far everything is really good except me trying to find out where the shift points are in the trans as they change whether your going up a hill or down a hill. If you start off in low and shift to high or just start off in high range. Sometimes they just change because they want too. But the high range is usually right around 25-30 unless your going down hill which is how I have to leave to go to town. Then it likes to shift at 21 mph. On the flat it wants to shift at 24 mph most times when it doesn't want to shift at 29 which is when it doesn't want to shift at 27. Get it ? Yeah, me either. With the windows up now I hear a little "clunk clunk" when slow and hitting a series of bumps so will get under and check out the sway bar bushings and stabilizer links. Sounds like that. Loose wire on the heater fan switch that I have known about but been lazy as it is has not been cold and the defroster will chase you out of the car anyway. Blower works on the heater, just a wire under there doing something. Have to look into why E-brake light likes to come back on for no reason. So far a great sound car. But the plan to give myself a loan till I sold the z28 didn't work out. The problem with collecting is that you always want to keep collecting. So I just ended up trading it for this 32 Plymouth and expanding the Mopar collection. The best made plan went down in flames. I started doing the math and figured out I came out ahead on the Chrysler which of course now means I still behind after this ha. The wire wheels just threw all logic out the window. Last week had too much fun with the 31 Franklin when we had the annual "Prohibition Speakeasy" night in historical downtown. It was a blast shuttling flapper's from bar to bar. And the decision to swap for this Plymouth wasn't hard to make after that.

Trying to get it. What is the lower block casting number with the H ?

OK, The seller cannot get a good picture of the engine number but he did get me this. I posted the engine casting numbers he was able to find up the thread but this is the serial # 1606954 another question. Is this pinstripe correct for the 32 ? I am not able to find many pictures of the 32 PA with pinstripe.

Evidently that tag is no longer on the door. I did post the numbers the seller was able to give me off the block and that is all I have right now as the car won't ship till after the holiday. I was looking at the Plymouth Owners Club just last night. Looks like a good deal for sure.

I would like to add a filter as things here can get very dry and dusty in summer. Going through back threads I came across this. Can anyone comment on it? I am still searching for a good book or manual for the plymouth 4 cylinder motor so nothing to go off but someone elses idea.

Have the new tube in hand and will start on changing that out tomorrow sometime I hope. Have been driving the old girl to work and back which is a 60 mile round trip. Needle stays in the good range if a little high. Hopefully the evapo-rust and driving will make the tube slide out easier. I am still running 50-50 evapo rust/coolant.

Dale is it a power steering gear box? I do not know if a steering box from a 60 will fit for a 63.

any other gaskets needed from this picture that need to be replaced in order to fix the leaky ones ? Read it was common practice to just trim number 5567 down for the 2 bolt application

On Paul,s car I do not see an oil filter. Were they a factory option? I have seen a couple pictures of cars with filters.

Maybe someone can explain the intake on the Plymouth 4 cylinder motor. Looking at this intake/exhaust gasket I do not see enough holes for both the intake and exhaust. Did I have one two many Irish whiskey's tonight or what ?

Looking at the nut on the water pump shaft, do these get repacked like old gate valves and is the material available to repack the water pump yourself?

Never seen one before

The older I get the more I enjoy life in the slow lane so away goes the 80 Z28 , 4 spd and in comes the 32 Plymouth to stable next to the 31 Franklin. Tell me more about that horn. I thought it was aftermarket.