RichBad

I just had my springs remanufactured - I asked the guy about lubrications and he said not to oil or grease between the leaves unless they were designed for it. He said it will result in them being overloaded (resulting in premature degradation) and also takes away the inherent damping action of the springs. Not a great issue if you have shocks/dampers but the early ones don’t.

I think when the washer is part of the screw (but still loose) it’s called a SEM screw. So you have what looks like a Raised head countersunk Phillips SEM screw.

Got these recently of Amazon US - plenty of different types available just takes a bit of time to search.

Thanks Matt! I’ve been taking measurements and was going to do some patterns after the final fit when I’ve got everything right. I think they varied a little between body builders (mine is Holden, there is also TJ Richards and maybe a few others). I’m pretty sure the main body is identical between the 4s and the standard 6. All the info I’ve been able to find so far supports this.

Got the scuttle pretty much sorted and straight. Finished the A pillars and attached to main frame. B pillars done but not fitted. Making progress slowly!

If you can’t feel the vibes how do you know how fast you are going:)

Good to hear - Bob has been a legend at helping me out too!

No gasket on mine and ended up on the windscreen when it overflowed. Added gasket now all the overflow goes out the overflow pipe:)

I’m pretty sure they only had it between the body and the frame up to the front of the scuttle. I don’t think there was any under the front wings however (possibly because there’s less movement between the parts). However, on mine I put a thin strip of fabric tape - more to just stop damaging the paint so much.

You shouldn’t need any sealant on the gasket. I used none on mine and it’s fine although I did notice that I got a slight weep coming up through one of the screws so a little thread sealer may be helpful?

Thanks! Victorian Ash - not quite as light or nice to work as European ash but probably what they used to use in Aus and it’s pretty easy to get hold of.

Main rails pretty much done, just need to finish the outer edges to the correct front to back curve. Struggling with the scuttle but thanks to a few folks on here have some dimensions and photos so I know what it should look like. There’s going to be quite a bit of work to get the lines right on the scuttle and the alignment with the bonnet and doors.

It looks like the throttle 'butterfly' valve that locates in a separate housing just above the main brass body of the carb.

With Matt’s great help we made a metal press tool and made a handful of door guides in no time. They came up great. Also, made some progress on the front door stops - put one fold in, then used the shrinker to get the curved shape correct and when done will put in the last fold. Also have a pile of wood and have started on the main rails. lots of progress - thanks for your help Matt!

Yup, think I need a die and may try that rubber method but at 0.040/1mm may be a bit thick for the rubber forming.

Working on a few bits of the body metal that were missing. Made some rear door stops and some new door guides and rubber blocks but the guide contact pieces are being a bit of a challenge. Made one but it hasn’t turned out too well. Are the guide blocks/contacts a standard part used across models or are they unique to the late tourers? 2 old and 2 new door guides New rear door stop The door guide contact blocks and pads. Bottom one is my attempt but not so good and I need another 5!

Skin is off and the wood’s out. Lots to do!

Got all of the wood out now. I think the scuttle wood was original but everything else had been replaced at some stage and the main plinths more recently. Got some correct measurements and my lower plinths are both 1/4 thinner than they should be. Also, the scuttle uprights weren’t even attached to the main plinths! next step to strip/clean up the metal work and buy some wood.

Got the trim out and door panels off -never seen so many staples! Next step to pull the rear tub and scuttle off. Thanks to Jesse J I’ve got some old sketches showing the important dimensions from an original one which will really help trying to sort it out.

Time for an update. Got the car up and running just in time to get a little driving over summer. Now the rain and cold of winter is back I thought I’d make a start on the body. The metal work is in pretty good shape but the wood frame underneath isn’t so nice! One last pic before she comes apart... Started stripping the trim and panels - someone liked using their staple gun! Wood work is complete but I think most has been replaced at some stage and not done very well. Uprights were not even jointed to the main rails!

Ok, checked my case and couldn’t see T141 or anything similar. Couple of numbers but probably casting numbers?

I can have a look tonight - where would it be stamped? Some photos are available here (but I couldn't see a stamping)

I don’t think it’s any help but just in case this is what’s in the series 128/129 parts book:

Did it get harder to turn the shaft when you tightened the nut? It should do as it’s compressing the seal more against the shaft. I think when I did mine I over tightened it (to the point it was to hard to turn the shaft) then backed off and then tightened slowly to the point that it was still easy for the shaft to turn (spring could close it).

I put new packing in mine and it hasn’t leaked a drop. If it is leaking you should just be able to tighten the nut slightly and if that doesn’t work perhaps you have some wear on the shaft?