RichBad

Looks nice and clean and original. That should come up a treat! thats a long drive!

4 cylinder 180degree crank shouldn’t be a problem to balance - and to be honest the fhlywheel is going to soak up a lot on these old girls. Had mine balanced no issues. When you get to non opposing inertia e.g ‘v’s, parallel twins etc (like the old motorbikes) then it’s harder and you have to go with a balance factor to suit the engine/frame/rev range and can never be perfect.

That’s a good point from Matt. To loose the 1st and reverse gear would be quite unlikely but for the selector to be damaged could be quite likely and would have the same effect.

Hi Matt, that reminds me - I was meaning to take a drive to you in my Dodge - would be interesting to compare (and I've got to drop that rubber off). I've had mine completely balanced - crank, flywheel, clutch rods etc and there are still some decent vibes at certain revs. I seem to remember you ruled out all the obvious 'easy' things to check (fan etc). Before you get the engine out may be worth checking the clutch - with the gearbox and clutch removed you can still start and run the engine. Could also check the fly wheel bolts at the same time and that the fly wheel is located correctly.

Galvanised from new. Can be redone and not expensive but you’ll have to remove the internal oil baffle first which is riveted in place. Then refit after galvanising and solder the heads of the rivets to seal them.

It gets quicker and easier the second time around - trust me I know:). Think I had my sump on and off 3 times during my engine rebuild. You may be able to re-use your gasket depending on the sealer you used. I put a thin coating on silicone on the sump face and let it touch dry and then a coating on the block which I stick the gasket to. When the sump is removed the gasket stays stuck to the block and comes away from the sump easily so can be reused.

Yes, that would do it as it would block the return tube resulting in oil overflowing out of the rear of the sump. Here’s a picture of mine before the sump went on - slightly later model but I think the seal and sump gasket is very similar in this area. i used sealant to ‘glue’ the felt to the rear bearing cap with a little extra in the corners to ensure it was oil tight.

Could well be the sump gasket around the oil flinger behind the rear bearing. If the gasket in this area overhangs into the cavity it can prevent the oil flowing back into the sump resulting in a leak. Just found und a couple of pics Fromm Bob B which explain what I mean.

Hi, the sump baffle can be removed if you are good at riveting and soldering. I started cleaning mine out with a few goes at degreasing, scrubbing and power washing. Then decided I wanted to get it re galvanised so removed the baffle and there was still a decent layer of sludge below the baffle. It wasn’t that hard to refit the baffle, just 4 rivets on each side and then solder over the heads of the rivets to seal them.

Thanks Ron. I wasn’t sure if they even had side rubbers originally but figured that as there was a channel in the screen frame I may as well use it:)

Fitted new rubbers and installed on the car. Came up a treat. Are the rubbers trimmed to suit the gaps or do they just overlap?

Thanks! I wanted to do it in chrome but I think it would have been close to impossible to repair it to a standard that could be plated. Not sure what they were originally but the black comes up really nice on the glass.

For the bottom Matt helped me out, we tried some rollers but that wasn’t enough so just used a press and a couple of blocks. Gradually worked allong the profile bit by bit until we got the shape. Can’t go too much though due to the cross section shape. The two sides needed too much and probably would have buckled but the ones on my original screen were not to bad so cut them off and welded them to the new bottom. Had to add ~1/8” to both of them but that was quite easy - cut off 1” and then replaced with 1 1/8” off the other one.

New bottom radiator hose thanks to Matt. Put a bead on the ends with a little trick I learnt by modifying a pair of mole grips. Weld part of an exhaust clamp to one half and half a washer to the other then just work around the tube.

Finished the screen - lots of filling and sanding but came up pretty well. Finished screen with the glass fitted

Lots of filling, sanding, priming, sanding and painting and the screens done - came up really nice. New glass fitted

Anyone have some pictures/photos of how the roof attached to the top of the screen support pillars? There's a small threaded section at the top of the pillar and did have a bracket attached to them but I couldn't figure out what is supposed to go there and how toe top connects to it. Thanks!

Looks fantastic mate - great job. Especially in the time you’ve had and with the 6 to fix too!

Thanks! Not up to your standard though! There are a few patches that I’ll just have to fill as the metal(rust) was disappearing faster than I could add it!

Most of the way there thanks to a bit of help from Matt. Got another screen frame that was a bit better but unfortunately a different shape. Bit of help from Matt got the bottom rail adjusted to correct profile and cut uprights from my old frame. Top rail needed a section replaced (due to damage but also to add a bit of extra length). The top rail in both pics is the original one - looks ok from the side but rotten inside and had no strength. Also had to make up the pivot friction rings - didn’t have a pattern but think this is what they should look like?

Started on the windscreen and a few other jobs. My windscreen frame was well and truely rotten - had been filled with all sorts (paper, cloth, bog etc). Got hold of another one which was better (still quite rusty but much more solid) but unfortunately was a slightly different shape and needed some adjustments and swapping a few sections. First made some pivot clamps so I could hang the frame in the mounts on the car to check it as I go. Didn’t have any to copy so think this is what they should look like. New top screen frame had some damage around the wiper mount (squashed) and was also ~1” too short so inserted a section from my old frame. Bottom rail was different shape (flatter) so needed a little more curve added - thanks to Matt for helping adjust. The bottom one is the new one - looks worse (rust holes) but is actually much more solid. Old and new frame sides - cut my original ones out (bottom) to weld into rest of frame. This shows how bad my old one was on the inside. Frame welded together using wooden pattern (made from old glass). Next step clean up and get glass cut.

Thats a pain. Just some random thaughts of a few things to check befiore you go too deep... Fan - its quite a big heavy thing and if its had a bad repair could easily give quite a good vibration - not sure if it's easy to disconnect (like the later ones) to see if it goes? Clutch spigot bearing - if missing/dammaged could be letting the input shaft wobble around (but I think you mentioned that was replaced) Flywheel - not sure about yours but mine could go on in any position - but was marked (also easy to check with the timing marks). It's so big and heavy that you'd think it would soak up anything else being out of ballance.

Is it engine speed related or road speed? My rear UJ gave a pretty decent vibe.

Can tell you’re an Aussie, you’ve fitted a beer holder:)

Not sure what the spec is for these engines but 65lbs doesn’t sound like a big issue if it’s cold. Takes quite a while to get the oil up to temperature and it’s likely to be quite different then.