RichBad

Got the trim out and door panels off -never seen so many staples! Next step to pull the rear tub and scuttle off. Thanks to Jesse J I’ve got some old sketches showing the important dimensions from an original one which will really help trying to sort it out.

Time for an update. Got the car up and running just in time to get a little driving over summer. Now the rain and cold of winter is back I thought I’d make a start on the body. The metal work is in pretty good shape but the wood frame underneath isn’t so nice! One last pic before she comes apart... Started stripping the trim and panels - someone liked using their staple gun! Wood work is complete but I think most has been replaced at some stage and not done very well. Uprights were not even jointed to the main rails!

Ok, checked my case and couldn’t see T141 or anything similar. Couple of numbers but probably casting numbers?

I can have a look tonight - where would it be stamped? Some photos are available here (but I couldn't see a stamping)

I don’t think it’s any help but just in case this is what’s in the series 128/129 parts book:

Did it get harder to turn the shaft when you tightened the nut? It should do as it’s compressing the seal more against the shaft. I think when I did mine I over tightened it (to the point it was to hard to turn the shaft) then backed off and then tightened slowly to the point that it was still easy for the shaft to turn (spring could close it).

I put new packing in mine and it hasn’t leaked a drop. If it is leaking you should just be able to tighten the nut slightly and if that doesn’t work perhaps you have some wear on the shaft?

Just seen that - will drop them a line. Boy those Ford guys have it easy!

Thanks - Mine is definitely an Australian Body not a Budd and from what Bob told me it’s almost definitely a Holden Body.

Thanks Matt, I hadn’t seen that so helps to give me an idea of what’s under the skin. I think the later ones may be a bit different or perhaps the differences are more between the different builders.

Anyone have some photos of the door pillars - in particular the strips that the doors close against - for a 1927/28 tourer?

Beautiful work, well done! did you also make your own dissy body?

Must be why they changed with the later diffs - mine has a pinch bolt in the case that you can loosen then it’s easy to turn the pinion assembly then just tighten when in the correct position.

I’ve got some thread files if they are any help? lots of bearings aren’t there! I think most of mine weren’t too bad except for the rear outer bearings. They were crazy! I think it’s because of the taper bore. they’ll be good for another 90 years!

Few more details of my rebuild here - this had the multiple iterations I went through trying to get the gears meshing correctly - didn't give a typical pattern as they were quite worn.

Only due to another expert (Bob)

Lucky I added a breather then:)

Pictures of my rebuild here - few notes but if you talk to Bob should be all good first important step I remember was getting the pinion and diff carrier pre load set on the bearings. Next step was setting the gear mesh correctly which was a combination of pinion in/out adjustment and carrier left/right adjustment - bluing the gears each time (this step took me ages). Then the last adjustment was done after installing diff in axle to set the play/clearance between the two half shafts. i changed my seals to modern ones at the same time - probably not necessary but means I don’t have to think about them again.

There’s a bit of a knack to getting them set up right too. I think mines probably a bit different from yours but the process is pretty similar. Bob talked me through how to do it on mine and I think i May have put notes on my aaca build page but if not I can dig through my notes. Hopefully your gear set is ok as trying to mix and match worn gears isn’t easy.

Not sure if mine is the same but I have the two Bakelite control levers with the horn button in the centre. I was missing most pieces including the horn button which I had to make. i made my button out of aluminium but I think the originals were Bakelite (so may a metal contact on the bottom). Mine was quite simple - the wire that comes up the centre or the steering shaft has an insulating washer then a ‘top hat’ shaped contact soldered to the end. That sits snugly at the end of the control lever tube. There is a spring (that needs to be a larger diameter than the contact) that goes between the top of the control lever tube and the the button. When the button is pressed, it completes the circuit to ground - from the wire ‘top hat’ contact to the button to spring to inner control lever tube to outer control lever tube to steering shaft. the control lever tube has a couple of bushes which probably help it conduct through to the other tube and then to the steering shaft. ill try and find a picture.

Don’t forget to make sure the flywheel bolts are in the crank before you fit the sump (if they were removed).

Or perhaps go larger with the pivots so they fit the bore and eliminate any source of movement that way - as long as they can still pivot freely (a good roller bearing may be a good fit)?

Hi Matt, i think the diameter of your two pins may be too large and creating some friction which in turn translates as a very small difference in distance between pivots which can lead to the variation. It’s important that it’s horizontal each time (between the small and big end centres) as well as being exactly the same distance from the small end pivot to where the mass is measured at the big end or visa versa. I think if you use a small diameter pin or even a ‘knife edge’ for the pivot it would be be more repeatable.

If you can notice the difference in a 24 dodge then you are doing well:). From what I can tell the choice between the two is probably more one of availability and personal preference than anything else - both seem to have plenty of use with no issues. Most of our cars have lasted 90+ years probably with sub standard lube for a great period as well as poor change schedule. With the love they get these days either of the above oils is likely to see them going for another 90+ years.