RichBad

Hi Ron, Not sure if you’ve seen Rob Teal’s work on facebook - he’s made a complete screen frame from scratch - not sure if there are any useful tips there? Also some of it is on you tube -

Great to see all the photos Ron - looks awesome. Did the body move around much when off the chassis for painting? I’m wondering if I set all the door strikers and catches before paint will they all need adjusting once the body comes off and back on after painting?

Thanks Kevin - I may hold off for the moment as my current trim has gaiters stitched to the carpet for the brake and gear levers. I may have to re-do the trim anyway.

Thanks Kevin - does that sit on top of the carpet or between the wood and the carpet? cheers, Richard

Thanks Matt - have now made one based on your pic and dimensions. As you say, they have the same gearbox so should be similar and Bob mentioned that some models had the swaged feature and others were flat. I think my car was a budget model so I’ve gone flat:)

Finishing off the front floor with a bit of help from Bob. Anyone have a photo of what goes around the gear box/lever?

Great to see some pics of the car Ron - looks Awesome!

Yea, almost there:) I was thinking of doing the door jam areas in colour and leaving the rest clear. You won’t see much of it but if you lift the carpet or look under the dash you’ll see it;)

Well spotted:). I’m leaving them till last just in case anything moves as they have no adjustment.

Finished off a couple of the door stops, made some new rubbers and added correct screws (thanks Ron). started the routing for the last door - close to having all 4 doors done. Well, almost - still need to dowel and glue them but will do that with a final check of alignments etc.

Impressive mate, that came together quick and looks very nice! Bet your relived:) The colours look fantastic mate. love the gloves

Started fitting up the door catch mechanism and door stops. I think there’s a bit of an order to it as lots of pieces need to line up correctly. This is the order I’ve done it: 1. Set door position horizontal and vertical by gradually removing more wood where the hinges attach. 2. Set door alignment to body - adjusting top/bottom hinge in/out. Attach hinges with countersunk machine screws at 2 diagonal positions (wood screws use at other two positions when alignments finalised). 3. Drill hole for door handle - this sets the position for the door catch mechanism. 4. Machine the door wood to suit the catch mechanism. 5. Check approximate location for door anti-rattle slides. 6. Fit door stops using door anti-rattle slide as a guide for vertical position (this needs to be located in the middle of the door stop mounting screws otherwise the associated anti-rattle solder assembly will clash with the mounting screws. 7. Note door stop in/out position needs to be set In conjunction with the door wood rebate otherwise the rubber bump stops won’t work properly. I’m going to leave fitting the anti-rattle sliders and the door catch until the final fit up as I’m sure everything will move around a little. Front door routing for the door catch mechanism. Rear door and stop (the door stop has to be cut into the dog leg for the rears).

I’d give you a thumbs up but you already have:)

Looks great mate. Lucky your thumb stayed attached - hope it recovers OK! I’m sure that even with that slowing you down you’ll be going faster than the rest of us:)

Ok, back to where I was a month ago! Had to re make the LHS dogleg again because the first time around I made it to suit a poorly repaired tub:(. Anyway, redone the wood and decided to make a new front section for the tub as the old one was in pretty poor shape. Took quite a bit of messing around as everything has to line up pretty well otherwise it would look terrible. Cutting out front section of tub new section ready to go in New wood cut to shape ready to weld tub (it’s a real pain as you need to use the wood as a guide for the metal work but you have to be super careful to not burn the wood with welds - but if you do all the welding off the wood it moves all over the place). Tacked in place (lots of water on the wood). Fully welded and cleaned up Finished and all four doors fitted at last. Now need to do the final adjustments and finishing of the door frames and catches then ready to start doing the final prep work for painting:). Woo hoo! (Perhaps I should just double check the rear guards still fit before getting too carried away).

Caltex Meropa, Penrite. Have a search of the forum - plenty of discussions in the past. 1500 may be a little heavy but also what ever works best:)

That’s beautiful mate - well done!

Looks good mate - looks like an awkward shape to make. Is it just the side hinges that are part of it or the middle one too? Just had a look at mine and they look a pain to make. I wonder if the hinge was rolled first when they made them?

Got some great condition back doors that will be much better than mine (which had been repaired really poorly). Unfortunately the rear tub had been repaired previously and not very well as the good doors don’t match too well. I’d matched the new wood to the tub so have a bit of rework to do on one side to be correct. Have to lift one side about 1/2” and may have to change the curve.

With a bit of help from my friends:) Hoping to make some more progress on the back doors this weekend:)

Thanks - not as fast as I’d like but getting there:)

Bit more progress. Hinges fitted to the B pillars so I can make a start on hanging the rear doors. Most of the front floor done. Making the door stops (with a bit of help from Matt). 90 degree fold and then shrunk edge to match the curvature of the doors. After getting correct shape folded other side to creat the “u” profile. Top edges were cut and shut to create the top curved profile. The screw holes have a swagged in countersink - made a little tool that I could use with a hammer to create the countersink - little trial and error but worked out nice. The finished front and rear door stops - still needs the cutouts for the rubbers and catch but will do that on the car to ensure alignment with the doors. In position on the car Had to make some sheet metal supports for the front seat retainer - these were a little harder as had a double countersink. Modified my tool and whilst not perfect they came up pretty well.

Looks identical to mine Matt but I bet your sector gears are in better shape:). I put a needle roller on my output shaft as well as a roller thrust bearing (instead of the fibre? Thrust washer) also put a seal on the input and output shafts and where the control rods come out the end. Made it lovely and smooth but mine was in pretty bad shape to start. I think there’s some photos on my resto thread but can text some over too. Bit of an order to the set up too - you’ll probably find it easy - I think it was main shaft endfloat first, then sector shaft thrust endfloat then set the sector engagement - a combination of the offset screw at the bottom and the offset nut at the top - I think I may have some instructions somewhere.

Beautiful mate - I want to get mine done now just for the sake of it:)