RichBad

That looks awesome! Would be great if you could add some drawings as that looks far easier than using a conventional rim tool!

Looks great mate, especially with those rivets. Nice one!

Not sure if it helps but when I cut some rubber bump stops for my car I found that they sanded a little better when cold - so stuck them in the freezer overnight. Helped a little.

Awesome, looks impressive. Will be a good workout to:)

Never tried it, good practice suggests it’s not good though. That said, I think the heads are pretty sturdy and if it’s not been apart for a long time it’s likely that it’s pretty much locked in place anyway (rust etc) - I’m sure back in the day they would have been swapped on the side of the road. Another option may be to mount on top of the existing nuts but that would only be possible if there was excess thread on the studs.

Should be fine to use the one with the larger flapper If there is sufficient volume between the inner and outer tanks (you don’t want this emptying before the inner tank has filled). Just make sure the inner tank doesn’t leak and the flapper valve seals (I don’t think the flapper valves ever seal perfectly but should be pretty good). Also, make sure the rod from the bottom of the float still locates in the locating hole in the outlet and can move freely without being too sloppy. You also need to ensure a good seal at the top of the tank. Your inner tank with the large flapper valve has the small lip at the top and only requires a single gasket at the top. Not sure what your smaller tank has but some had a larger flange and a gasket on both sides.

Yes, later ones had two (My 27 does). One was a drain and the other, the fuel feed, was slightly raised in the tank so as to reduce any sediment and water going down the fuel line. They would be interchangeable.

Very sad indeed, he was a wealth of knowledge and always willing to provide help to others

Still lots to do but it’s looking a lot more like a car:). Fitted the front seat base - not sure how the seat backs go though - the rear one should be hinges at the bottom so I guess it just screws to a wood backing panel?

Fitted some more pieces for attaching trim and the front seat support. Strips to locate the rear seat base and attach side trim to.

Adding the trim strips to the inner B pillar. these are used to attach the front seat trim. Seat back lower support - much easier than the top one!

Starting on the last major piece of wood work - the front seat top support. I've been staying away from this as it looks like a big pain - has to match the seat back (which has curves in both directions and folded top edge) and also match both of the B Pillars which angle outwards front to back and bottom to top. Needed to repair the seat back first as the bottom edge was quite rusted. Started out with making the pieces to attach to each of the B pillars. Then made the main rear strip Then cut the ends to match the main cross piece Screwed and glued and sanded to shape Finished - adds quite a bit of strength to the B pillars

Making the wood that goes under the scuttle was a pain - it tucks in behind a lip and curves in every direction as well as having a finger joint mid curve. Gluing the finger joints using the dash support as a template (this also screws to the back of the under scuttle strip. Finished and attached to the dash support panel - old one was in pretty poor shape. Despite being pretty knackered, I think it was the only original piece of wood on the car. Fitted to the scuttle to match to the A pillars and drill the windscreen support bracket holes. Close up showing the A pillar to dash support and scuttle strip - lots of pieces jointed to each other. Bolted up to the windscreen support bracket.

Time for a few updates - has been lots more done since last post. Doors roughed out on the other side

Thanks Ron. Yup, there is timber under the front lip of the bulkhead - was a real pain in the a to make a new one - curved in every direction with finger joints half way through the curve! have got them sorted now thank god. Has been one of the hardest bits making that piece, then getting it to attach to the dash wood and the front A pillars with a screw going through all three and the windscreen support bracket. I think the wood work is identical to the 6s - Holden bodied. It's a good reminder to post some updates:)

Hi Ron, what profile windscreen framing did you manage to find? When I was restoring my frame (which I think is probably quite similar to yours) I had a hard time finding anything that would suit - with the glass channel one side, the rubber channel on the other and the ability to have the top section removable for replacing the glass. I ended up repairing mine using parts from two frames, some help from Matt and a fair bit of fibreglass.

Looks good mate, I think there are details for spring dimensions and leaves on the DBC web site I’ll have a look as i think I’ve got a copy as had mine re-set and the top leaf re-made.

Just realised the stuff I got was 1/4” but plain copper. Very easy to form which is good. Probably closer to what was used originally and available on eBay or any AC place - https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F163814585470 cupronickel doesn’t seem to be so readily available here although pretty easy to get from uk on eBay. I think the Australian ADRs require bundy or stainless for brake lines which may be why it’s not so readily available here.

You can get 3/16” CuNi here pretty easily, it’s pretty standard. 1/4” also available. What size are your lines?

Also, when you fit it, install the shaft and wind the packing clockwise around the shaft feeding into the bore as you go. When fitted, tighten the nut just enough to seal but allow the shaft to move. I started out by over tightening and then backing off until it could move freely - works a treat and doesn’t leak a drop.

Packing gland/rope/cord/seal. I think Myers sell it. I’d recommend a complete gasket set from them (which may include the packing) and also get one of their viton float seals - saves lots of trouble.

Dog legs done on both sides (man they were hard). Tongue and groove made for rear floor and fitted. Roughed out out one rear door now on to the other side doors.

I think the grooves in the bearing may have been more to do with the manufacturing technique than for oil distribution. I doubt that you will find them with the grooves. i had the same issue with my box, it worked but was noisy. Turned out the cages had broken for all three roller bearings. One thing to check before you re -assemble is that the shafts that the bearings run on are in good condition. Mine had quite a lot of wear on the lay shaft - if I’d put it back together I think it would have destroyed the new bearings in no time. I think if the wear is only slight, you can turn the lay shaft 180 degrees as they tend to wear more on the loaded top surface. cheers, Richard

Slow progress, but progress none the less. Almost finished the rear end, just need to complete the bottom half of the dog legs. Not so easy as the metalwork had been repaired in the past so I had nothing to work to as a correct pattern. Think I’ve figured it out but those curved pieces of wood aren’t easy - especially the joint to the vertical part.

If you put modern seals in your diff then it’s probably going to pressurise and blow oil out somewhere. When I did mine I put a breather hole in one of the rear case top bolts - seems to work fine and no oil comes out of the breather bolt or anywhere else on the diff.