Bloo

There is no expectation (at least among people in the know) that a NOS part is any good or even rebuildable (It could be a rubber windshield gasket!). When the term is correctly used, it should be an unused original dealer or assembly line part. Similarly, NORS (new old replacement stock) should generally be an old stock replacement made by someone else, like for instance a period NAPA/Echlin replacement for an original GM/Delco voltage regulator.

As previously mentioned, cores are a starting point for rebuilding. The word "core" comes from exchange programs for parts at auto parts stores where there would be a "core charge" on top of the price of the rebuilt part you buy that would be refunded to you when you returned your old broken part to the store. They would then send it off to the rebuilder. The quality of the parts from these exchange programs varied wildly even in the beginning. Some were fine. By the 1990s they had become a really bad joke. Today when restoring a car, the owner will often find that he has some part that is incorrect. Close enough to work, but not close enough in appearance for a restoration. Or, he finds himself with a part that is so damaged from the "rebuild" process that no one can fix it. Often both of these things are true. So, armed with information about what the correct part looks like, and what numbers might be stamped, cast, or painted on it, the owner heads off to Ebay to buy a "core" that is the correct part, and in good enough shape to rebuild. Then he either does, or hires out to a competent restorer, the quality rebuild that should have been done in the first place. Some guys providing cores may be "copping out" on the condition just to get rid of some junk, while others are intentionally providing a service to people who are looking for good correct rebuildable cores. In either case it is up to the buyer to correctly identify what he is buying from the pictures provided. Often sellers have no idea what they are selling and an overwhelming majority of the descriptions on Ebay are missing critical information or just plain wrong.

This.^^ This right here.

Negative Ground.

What he said. ^^

The copper bolts in the solenoid are the likely culprit. Clean is nice, but if they look like they lost a lot of copper they probably don't reach anymore. There is also a relay on the back of the starter on many of these setups. The points could be dirty. and need a gentle cleaning. For what its worth, its almost always the copper bolts. Sometimes you can turn them backwards to get a new taller surface if someone in the past has not already done it. I second Rock10, what contacts? That could tell us a lot.

Hey 1935pontiac605sedanman, If you do take pictures inside any of your doors, I would love to see them too. Especially the back ones, and especially down low if there is wood left down there, but any internal door pics would be useful. I would REALLY like to know how they implemented the drain where the bottom board goes to the bottom of the door. The sheetmetal has 2 drain holes in my 36 Pontiac, I have seen a 35 Chevy Master and it has one hole. One mystery to me is what they did to the bottom board to allow drainage. In the replacement boards I made, I cut a steep angle across the whole board, but I suspect that is not what they did originally because there are nail holes in the sheetmetal down there, and what I did doesn't leave much wood. You probably can't see that detail anyway unless you took your doors apart, but please take pics if you do.

Is it really that bad? Maybe the steering wheel has been recast and he's trying to protect it from UV damage. I love the feel of hard cast steering wheels and would have never done that, but whatever floats your boat.

If it is one of those hoses with the crimped ends, you can find them on Ebay occasionally but there is no guarantee that it would stand up to ethanol long term. What I would do (and what I did on my Pontiac) is make a hose that is a direct replacement. I am guessing that the Buick has a double flare with a male nut on the gas line, and attaches to the fuel pump with pipe thread. If so, I would get appropriate hose barbs and some good clamps (preferably fuel injection type). Silicone spray previously mentioned works great to put it together. If it uses something different for connections, you can probably get appropriate hose barbs. Just match what is on the old hose. New barbs will be kind of long, check before you cut, the piece of hose might need to be a bit different length to fit nice.

You aren't new to this auto repair thing... are you? 🤣 But in all seriousness, lesser fuel line when it starts to fail often leaks right through pinholes in the side of the hose where the reinforcement strings are. In the 80s, old carbureted cars that used it on the pressure side (4 lbs) would come in with raw gas all over the top of the motor and the driver would either be unaware, or complaining of a gas smell. When it happens on the suction side, nobody can see the leak but the fuel pump can't lift. Everybody was pretty cavalier about it, and we just fixed it with more of that crap hose. It was all anyone stocked before fuel injection became common. A new fuel filter would come with 2 lengths of it and four clamps.... I am pretty sure you know all that, but not everyone does.

Pay attention to what the drawers are hanging on (hopefully ball bearing slides), and the thickness of the metal. Look real close and then ask yourself "what happens if this breaks?". Prior to the toolbox wars of the 90s, most Snap On boxes had plain slides with no bearings. That was fine because it was well made, and because Snap On would replace the slides when you bent or broke them, free if I remember correctly. Even if it wasn't free, it was OK because parts were readily available and it would be fixed in less than a week. If you buy a toolbox built like that now from some chain store, it would be fair to assume the whole box is going to be scrap the first time you bend or break one of those. It happens more often than you would think. The Harbor Freight stuff I have seen in the last year or two looks far better than you would expect for the price. Too bad it's out of stock.

Get the 30r9. Pressure is far from the whole story. I know it's not cheap, and it is kind of hard to work because it doesn't stretch much. It is ethanol resistant and lined, and is the only good choice today.

Is yours the original or the reprint, and do you know if there is a difference?

Tapered finger joints over an inch? Yeah, they don't sell deep cutters. I am looking too, though not for a Ford woodie. Sorry I can't help, and thanks for posting the radial arm idea, though I can't see how they are doing it either. I was about to just give up and do straight finger joints. Those are possible on a table saw using a box joint jig that you can buy or make. It would give up some strength over the taper I think.

You could use a suction gun, but that might sour you on the hobby forever. Maybe you can remove the bottom bolt of the pan and let it (really slowly) drain out the bolt hole. Works on 1936, not sure about 1937 (different rearend).

But in 56 wouldn't it have been pushbuttons if automatic? I had a 55 automatic. It had the lever.

Yep... I love rain-x.

These things are made of zinc. The flapper run must be absolutely straight or it will work on the bench, and then stop at the wide spot after you bolt it in the car. Some are not rebuildable due to wear or warpage. Send yours in. If they reject it, buy a core on Ebay and send that in. Any used motor is a core. It is not worth the time and effort to bolt it in the car without rebuilding it first. Like you, I tried to fix my most recent one. Like so many times in the past the motor had problems I could not reasonably fix for less than the cost of a rebuild, if at all. Clean Sweep rebuilt it. Seems to work good, Works fine spraying water on the windshield, though to be fair I have not been caught in the rain yet, so I don't really know for sure how good it is. Since my car has no booster pump on the engine, I am expecting the old "let the throttle up to get a wipe" routine, but time will tell. Note: It is not only important that the wiper work, but that it does not leak vacuum when it is shut off.

Joe has it right, that is to spread the tire so you can grind in there to scuff the tire up prior to applying a patch. I can almost smell the stench of burning rubber from here.

Having been in a wreck in one of those big American cars, I think you might be disappointed. I got injured, so afterward I went out and bought an enormous 69 Cadillac. What I learned: Big is heavy is ok if you are going to be all fatalistic about it and just resign yourself to crashing into whatever is in the way. They react too slow and aren't great at stopping either. Your best option if you cant stop is to steer around something. The hole you need to put the car through to escape (if there is one) needs to be a lot bigger for a full size Cadillac, provided the steering and chassis would react fast enough to let you drive through. It wont. The Cadillac was followed by some daily drivers of a MUCH smaller size, and I never looked back.

OOOh... that's a fancy one.

The floor doesn't go all the way to the edge. There are areas behind the quarter panel that can fill with dirt. Originally there were plastic plugs with a little drain divot on the inside way down at the bottom to let any water that gets in the trunk out. Sometimes when rust is repaired people don't put the holes for the plugs back in. Admittedly it is a pain to do so because they are d shaped holes. If you cant pull the plugs and hose it out now and then, the quarter panels will rust out thanks to the dirt building up and staying wet.

I take it you haven't driven many miles in 60s Chryslers..... I had one that I called my daily. It was my daily in the winter, and on long trips, and whenever I wasn't driving a "project". It was getting close to 400k miles when it got wrecked in the mid 90s. Worn out? Yes completely, but well maintained. Always started in stupid cold weather. I recall one winter when it was way below 0F every night for weeks, and a lot of that between -10 and -20. Never boiled in Eastern Washington hot weather. It gets over 100F here every August. Never vapor locked. I took it out of state and to Canada without even thinking about it when I could afford the gas and oil. For about 10 years of that I wasn't even carrying a jack, let alone any tools. It never had to be towed, not even once. That's not quite the same thing as trying to drive a restored open MG on salted New England roads. Of course there were always little projects and things to fix. Any old car needs more maintenance than something from the 2000s era, but that was just a known expected thing. Maybe it isn't widely known now. I would be more concerned that they said they didn't know much about cars.

Tecumseh 4hp on mine as well.