Bloo

I was wondering about that oil pressure gauge connection port. Does the oil have to flow through the cam to get there, in other words does it just give a squirt as the engine turns? It LOOKS from the diagram you posted that the oil flows AROUND the cam, not through it. In that case it should have pressure if the bottom end does. Now I wonder if the oil is metered by the cam as it is to the top end on some modern OHV engines. It sounds like an insane place for Lincoln to connect the gauge if so. Maybe the pressure was fine the whole time. The difference in oil pump gears may be wear, or may be just post-1935 engineering. Backlash in those gears matters, and end clearance REALLY matters. Sometimes just figure eight sanding an end plate flat like new to reduce end clearance can make a massive difference in an old oil pump's performance. Since you haven't checked the internal clearances of the old one yet (at least as of your last post) I wouldn't rule out the oil pump. PS: don't run it without the pop off valve. I don't know what to say about the bearing leakage. Honestly I expected much more leakage. I'm going to wait and see what Ed says before I form an opinion on that. PPS: Reading back through this thread I think I should point out that the popoff valve spring pressure only makes a difference if the oil pump is 100% keeping up. Most, maybe all engines today are designed to have excess pressure and blow off the valve a little above idle, assuming hot oil. The pressure stays at the popoff pressure no matter the RPM, more or less. It falls low at idle, maybe almost zero, maybe by design, maybe due to leakage caused by wear. There is another strategy though, some systems may be designed so they sort of "track" RPM, and never use the popoff valve much. Raise the RPM, with hot oil, and the pressure gets higher. It seems to track the tachometer to a point. Leakage gets worse with RPM, and eventually pressure starts to fall if you go high enough. This "just enough" approach would be more sensitive to bearing leakage, but would waste less horsepower and therefore probably heat the oil a little less. I doubt you will run into this, but in the mid 30s, at Ford, I wouldn't rule anything out.

Is this it?

Zero issues with those Chrysler pushbuttons. It's mechanical. They only stopped doing it because of some shifter standardization push in the mid 60s. 1965 Chrysler products have a column shifter, or occasionally a floor shifter, but it is just pulling on the same cables the pushbuttons did. Those work fine too. The only sort of annoying thing about them, back in 57 anyway, is the lack of "park". There is a parking brake on the back of the transmission tailshaft that you use in lieu of park. You have to keep that adjusted and working. Some other makes used electric pushbuttons. Those are reputed to be problematic.

You don't. You try to collect things you might need when they become available. Otherwise, if the Internet is no help (ebay, etc) and the classifieds in your club newsletter is no help, you just have to make the parts. Cars of that age, and their parts, were made to be overhauled and adjusted until completely worn out, and then maybe some intervention from a specialist was needed. Of course some parts needed replacing but it was much less of a thing than it is now. There were thousands of car manufacturers before WW1. Can you imagine a parts store trying to support that? And, where would the closest one be? When necessary you would order parts from the car manufacturer by telegram, using special codes from the parts catalog to shorten the telegram and lower the cost. Maybe you would write a letter instead if you weren't in a hurry. Parts would be shipped out to you most likely by train. So collect spare parts when you can, understanding that they may need just as much work as the ones on the car. When something is bad, take it apart. Adjust or rebuild according to the manual (if there was ever a manual), possibly using small pieces from one of your spares. If the part is beyond minor adjustment and overhaul, then do whatever is necessary to make it new again. At that point you often need the help of a machinist. Sometimes parts need to be made from scratch. Generally speaking, the less sophisticated the car is, the easier the parts are to make. Somebody had to make the part back then. Usually it is possible. Sometimes it isn't. Recent technology has made it easier (see what @edinmass @Gary_Ash and @JV Puleo have been up to in the White thread). Around my house, some things get made with basic tools, an anvil, and an acetylene torch. Many of the early mechanics were really blacksmiths. I know a couple of machinists who help out when I need them. For something like ignition points, you should get some while available! If they are gone you will just have to keep looking I think. I have heard of people replacing the contact point on the arm, but have not done it. That would be a last resort. Find out what the contacts were made of originally. It might be silver or platinum or something easier to work with than the tungsten used today.

The condenser on the coil should be on the (+) side, not the (-) and as you mentioned is for radio interference. It is not necessary to run, and also shouldn't make any difference here unless it was shorted, and then the wiring would be getting hot, not the coil. No harm in disconnecting it. The condenser inside the distributor is effectively on the (-) side because it is connected to the points, and it is the one to change. While you are in the distributor, look to see if the breaker plate ground wire is there, and not broken. Most likely your breaker plate moves with the vacuum advance and has to remain grounded. A special wire with strands of copper and spring steel is used, so it can bend a zillion times without breaking. It will not cause the coil to get hot if it is broken, but you will need it to make the car run right, so it is worth looking at.

Yes. If the light blinks ok, try putting the end of the coil wire (high voltage wire) close to ground and see if you have spark. If you have no spark or extremely weak spark from the coil, try a new condenser. If you still don't have good spark, try another coil.

Hook a test light from the (-) side of the coil to ground and see if it blinks when you crank.

Points not opening or points wire shorted? If the coil were "on" 100% of the time it would get hot.

Please do. My dad restored one of these in the late 50s. Do you know the serial number yet?

My comment pertained to 65-66. If I remember correctly the 67 Mustang is a Fairlane underneath, not a Falcon like the 65-66. There was probably a lot different.

The usual Lloyd Young conversions were Borg Warner, not Bendix. They are the same as used in 1950s American cars. They are meant to be on the back of a transmission. I have had factory installations and loved them, but am a little on the fence about installing one in the middle of a torque tube. As originally installed these had kickdown, freewheel, etc. Gear Vendors is a continuation of the Laycock de Normanville overdrive as used in British cars and Volvos. These originally were on the back of transmissions too, but Gear Vendors new production are made to go in drivelines or torque tubes. They are actuated electrically with a switch. They are the most expensive option. There is also Mitchell, although they do not support torque tubes in anything except Model A or early V8 Fords. In that case, you would be completely on your own with the engineering, machine work and installation to get their overdrive put in a Buick or other torque tube. It has been done. It is probably possible to do it for less money than Gear Vendors. The Mitchell is a synchromesh 2-speed transmission (direct and overdrive), and has two choices for the overdrive ratio. It shifts with a cable or linkage.

I went to their site the other day, and noticed that it was in the middle of an update and didn't really work anymore. Their site was a little hard to use before, so I'm not surprised they are changing it, but the inventory was extensive. If anything is made new or reproduction, they probably have it. I think they have NOS too, but last I heard they were trying to get out of the NOS part. I have bought parts for my 36 from them. I would say call them but as you are overseas it might be better to use the contact form and take it to email. KornKurt on the other hand is right here on the forum, and can be contacted via PM. I think he is mainly a NOS dealer, but you would have to ask what else he carries. He usually has what people are looking for, and is definitely worth checking with. If he doesn't have it he might know who to ask. That said, it might be impossible to get everything from one source. There are a lot less of these cars around than Chevrolets or Fords. Regarding clubs, Gary F mentioned POCI, but I would also mention the Early TImes Chapter (of POCI), who cover all the flathead cars (1954 and earlier plus Oaklands), and the Oakland Pontiac International chapter of AACA, who cover through 1958. Both publish a magazine or newsletter. Both have ads for parts. Direct website contact for either is spotty. Try email. http://www.earlytimeschapter.org/ http://www.oaklandpontiacworldwide.com/

The sixes used something that looks like a toy. Not a Ford 8".

Me neither. I have a 2002 Prius I inherited from my parents that I have been using for a winter car. It is now 19 years old, more than 220,000 miles, and doing fine on the original traction (hybrid) battery. It still has never had any repairs I would consider major. I used to read the Prius mailing lists years ago when my parents had this, and no one on the mailing lists knew what a traction battery cost. Why? There were very few reports of failures, and when there were, Toyota replaced them for free even if they were way out of warranty due to high mileage. The little 12v lead-acid battery that bootstraps the electronics to start the car though, was one spot where the engineers missed. It is about the size of one in a lawn tractor. It wasn't big enough. My car has had several of those over the years.

Try bright bulbs if you like, but resilvering the reflectors and chasing the excess resistance out of the headlight wiring to get the voltage up are really the only 2 things that do enough good to notice. You can probably find some 50cp bulbs (but then can your generator keep up?). If not the lights might run even dimmer. I think it can keep up on a 37 Dodge, but I cant remember for sure how big the generator is. If it's 25 amp or more I suspect it would be OK. The "1" in 2331 indicates a difference in the base from the common 2330 etc. I suspect the number for 50cp bulbs for you car is 2531, but I am not near any of my books right now.

Careful on windshields, all are not the same. Some are split, and some are one piece. @Kornkurthere on the forum is a very good source of parts. California Pontiac Restoration is another. https://pontiacparts.net

The mounting boss on the engine itself is upside down when comparing Pete Phillips' engine to Gary W's engine. Anyone else notice that? It's hard to tell in Ray34's picture. I suspect the pump on Pete Phillips' car is wrong, and we have not got to the bottom of this problem yet.

I would have thought so too, but there is one of these (within a model year or two) parked less than a mile from my house. Straight eight and Hydramatic.

Normal It's a synchromesh transmission on second and third, so no need to shift it that way unless the synchros are really really shot. You can do it, and if you get it really right it shouldn't hurt anything. If/when you miss, you are causing a lot more wear than if you just used the clutch. I typically do match RPM, and double clutch, but you don't necessarily have to double clutch either, as long as the synchros work. The first thing I would do is get out the manual and adjust the clutch linkage to factory spec, to make sure the clutch is disengaging properly or at least doing all it can. If you ever have the toe boards out, there is a little cover on top of the bellhousing you can take off and an oil cup on the throw out bearing. It is not a bearing, but a carbon disc soaked in oil. It would like a drop or three of 50 weight oil in it's cup. It is best not to hold down the pedal for long periods unnecessarily with this type of bearing. The side motor mounts on these cars are also adjustable. See the shop manual, as there are several versions. If the clutch chatters badly on takeoff, they are probably out of whack. If the mounts are old and hard you might not be able to tighten them as much as the book says, but it will give you a good idea what to do. Now about oil: A lot of synchromesh troubles are really just crap oil. If it were me, I would put some synchromesh oil of some sort in the transmission. It might make a big difference. I am using Redline 75w140NS, because it is the heaviest one. All of these are lighter than the no longer available SAE160 in the manual, and leak out faster, so check the level a lot until you get a handle on how much leaks out. It can and does also leak into the rear axle through the torque tube. There is only a cork seal holding it back. Check the rear axle regularly too. Normal rear axle level is so you can bend one knuckle on your pinky and touch the oil. Up to the plug is less desirable but probably OK. It may get fuller, and you may have to take some out. If you are losing a lot of trans oil into the rear axle, change the rear axle oil now and then with some good GL5 gear oil, full enough so you can reach in and touch it. You can use the bottom pan bolt as a drain plug, with the fill plug open to let air in, but be aware it will take a long time to drain. If you mean at a stoplight, push the clutch down, "touch" second or third, and then go into first. The only non-synchronized gear is first. EDIT: I just realized you have a 1935, not 1936. If it is from late in the year, you have a Buick-based transmission like mine, but if it is earlier 1935, you would have a Chevrolet-based transmission closely related to the type used in Chevrolet Masters through the end of 1936. That transmission is known for weak synchros. A guy on the VCCA forums who has been driving one of those transmissions since the early 70s suggests Lubriplate SPO-288, which is really heavy and kind of the opposite of what I recommended above. Your mileage may vary. I think the idea in that case is for the oil to help slow the gears. If it were me I would still try some synchromesh oil before giving up and putting in the heavy goo, but it is food for thought. The Buick based transmission has an extremely short shift tower and you only see the shifter sticking up through the floor. If there is a shift tower sticking 2 or more inches up through the floor, you have the Chevrolet-based transmission.

Was the whole length of the cable getting hot? If you have a "hot spot" look there for a resistive connection. If the whole cable gets hot, the starter draws too much current. Either the engine is dragging horribly for some reason, or maybe some rebuilder undercut the armature mica on the starter. The grooves fill with copper and the commutator becomes a dead short. An armature dragging due to bad bushings is another possibility, but not very common on that type of starter.

That's a Hudson radiator shell for sure.

I'll pile on here as the third to suggest making sure that heat shield over the fuel pump is present.

Yes. #10 or #8 might even catch on fire. Any of those switches reduce cranking effectiveness, as does more wire, more connections, etc. The starting current ALL flows through the ground cable, be it negative or positive. If you are going to do it, use more cable the same size as your battery cables, and buy a big heavy top-quality switch, like might be used on a fire truck. @Matt Harwood might know a source for a switch. Some guys put the switch in the floor to simplify the wiring. Shorter is better. Good luck.

I have no recent experience with them.

Me too. The problem is that any focused light is designed around a focal point. The filament is sometimes cylinder shaped, and is oriented either up/down, right/left, or front/rear. The filament might be a V shape to more closely approximate a spherical spot of light. The designer designs around this with his reflector and lens. Probably mostly the lens because the reflectors in cars of this period are usually simple parabolic reflectors. The placement of the filament is critical to focus and to the distribution of light. As you can see from the pictures in this thread, LEDs do not typically make a tiny cylinder or sphere of light that shines in all directions. They need a heatsink on the back of the LEDs. LED technology improves every year it seems, maybe it will happen someday. For now, if you look at many of the pictures in this thread you can see why the light will not focus. The lights are probably brighter to look at but lack the distance projection for driving. I have seen some bulbs with the LEDs down inside slots in the heatsink. I imagine it works better but I doubt it completely solves the problem. The H4s shown at the top of the graphic in your post are also attempting to position the LED better. If you buy some, be sure to buy the most recent design you can find. The technology is moving extremely fast. Stuff sold for old cars can sit on a shelf for years. LEDs can work very well for the smaller bulbs that are not in focused reflectors. It won't save as much power as headlamps would, but it is something.