EmTee

The best thing you can do is burn it as fast as you can and/or top-off the tank when NE gasoline is available.

Rare Parts will rebuild the one from your car, however, the price is twice that of the one you found new... https://www.rareparts.com/RP25737A-25737-CENTER-LINK-MUST-HAVE-CORE-TO-REMAN?quantity=1&custcol_rp_part_location=FRONT%20UPPER&custcol_rp_part_application=411069&custcol_rp_vehicle=1963-Buick-Electra

When can I move in?

Once everything is back in order and connected under the hood you need to show that sad looking air cleaner housing some love! That beautiful FE paint job sure makes the tired air cleaner stick out...

Brings back memories of riding through the neighbor's field in their Morris Minor lot car - exciting!

It sounds to me like you need to first raise the front of the car and find the point where the the steering box is centered in its travel. At this position, the steering wheel should be centered. If it isn't, then either the wheel is misaligned on the steering shaft, or the steering shaft is misaligned within the box (indicative of a bigger steering box issue). If the steering wheel and Pitman arm alignment is correct, then the task becomes adjusting the tie rods to be equal length and get the wheels pointed straight ahead as @195354 mentioned above.

Sounds like another bum condenser...

With eyes closed, the perception when riding in my '38 Century is practically indistinguishable from a 1960s or early '70s GM sedan.

Here's a picture of the radiator from my 1938 Buick Century:

That doesn't look like a 1938 Buick radiator. Looks like it may be earlier than that; not sure if it's Buick. Are there any part numbers or words (e.g., "Harrison") on the tank?

I think this one is a re-run...

...or the wire is disconnected.

Another thing to check is whether the steering wheel was removed and reinstalled in the wrong position. Start with an under car inspection of the steering components, as others above have suggested. Set the front wheels straight ahead and note the position of the Pitman arm and the steering wheel. The Pitman arm should be parallel to the driveline and the steering wheel should be centered (and right-side up).

If you run Evaporust, you should consider installing an ankle-high stocking in the upper hose at the tank nipple. That will catch all of the crap the Evaporust liberates before it can plug the radiator core. Depending upon how much junk there is in the block, you'll need to periodically remove it and rinse it out.

Use an IR thermometer to check temperatures across the radiator core. Blockage will appear as a cool spot. Temperature should drop gradually between inlet and outlet. Make sure there's a spring inside the lower (outlet) hose to prevent pump suction from collapsing it.

Well, owning a '67 myself helps quite a bit...

There should be a plunger type switch somewhere on the emergency brake pedal assembly.

Well, it is "The Sportwagon from Hell" after all!

Do you have a test light or Ohm meter? You should test the rheostat winding for end-to-end continuity. Use an Ohm meter to check across the winding, or apply 12V to one end and touch a grounded test light to the winding and verify the light is lit. If it does not light, probe the winding closer to the grounded end. There could be a break in the rheostat winding.

When in doubt, I use a battery hydrometer to check the electrolyte.

'67 seat backs have locks to hold them in place. The button on the side must be pushed to fold the seat back forward. If you modify the bumpers as Joe P. suggested, just make sure the latch still functions. Shaving the bumpers should be fine, if you shim them to straighten the seat back, then some latch adjustment may be needed.

That's always the first thing to check and correct if necessary before further troubleshooting.

I use mine to check for equal brake adjustment at each wheel. When adjusted correctly the temps for wheels on the same axle are within ~5° F.

Ah - I saw it was 400+ pages long and ASSumed it was the shop manual... The link you posted looks like the least expensive option. I prefer the books, but $200 is kinda pricey unless you're inclined to tackle pretty much all of your own maintenance and repairs. If so, the books will pay for themselves after a couple of big jobs. If you go with the soft copy you can just print the relevant pages and bring them to the garage.