EmTee

Looks like a Lockheed P-3 Orion.

Maybe a 'Black Friday' sale?

Apparently Florida Torque Converter can provide switch-pitch torque converters https://www.floridatorqueconverters.com/ . Refer to the recent thread below from over on the Olds forum. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/409765-sudden-transmission-whine-1966-toronado/#comment-2659591

Too bad about the MAPP gas, but I bet it wouldn't have been hot enough either. At least you managed to get the job done and it looks good!

If you can find a connection point closer to the fuel tank you could remeasure there and see what the resistance is. My gut says the pump motor is probably bad (dirty and/or partially stuck brush). Try a few hard raps on the tank with a block of wood (or your shoe ) with 12V applied and you might get lucky and get it unstuck...

You can also post over at the Buick Buy/Sell area: https://forums.aaca.org/forum/12-buick-buysell/

I will say that my wife's '93 Allante' will leave the traffic light with authority if I apply pressure to the go-pedal. 300+ HP out of a 4.9 would seem doable (e.g., supercharger or turbo). The big problems will be building the transverse transmission to handle the torque and managing traction. Supposedly there were 'tweaks' made to the 4T80E used in the '93 Allante with the "V4J" mid-year update. Also, note that the '93 Allante' used a 3.7:1 differential gear ratio, whereas the earlier cars had a 3.2:1 final drive ratio. So, you'd probably want to find a '93 4T80E from an Allante' or ETC and then have it beefed-up as much as possible. Even so, the other problem will be getting that power to the pavement with a FWD architecture...

Looks like one that was posted here before months ago?

I have a small tub of Wood Bleach on the shelf in my garage.

Ugh -- sorry to hear that. Did the 'mechanic' tell you specifically what adjustments he made? Is it 'sputtering' at the tailpipe, or actually spitting something out? My '38 will sometimes spit some black liquid out of the tailpipe when started cold after sitting overnight. After checking things, I concluded that it's condensation from within the muffler picking-up carbon from inside the muffler and exhaust pipe. Do you have a dwell meter, timing light or vacuum gauge?

Is that setup specifically designed for an aluminum trailer? It looks like the equalizer spring bends around and pushes against a steel pad bolted to the bottom of the tongue frame. Or, does this setup also provide sway control? My Curt hitch simply connects to the trailer frame (steel) with chains.

I'm amazed that the side glass didn't shatter!

I agree that the white will really pop against the dark green, however, what do you think about saddle, rather than white? I have always liked that combination. I think the tan pairs well with the green without being as stark as white is. I don't know whether that combination was offered originally, but it was certainly offered on other GM cars over the years.

Try connecting an Ohm meter between the pump's 12V input and chassis ground. If the motor is grounded, you should get continuity (i.e., a couple of Ohms resistance). If it reads 'open' (i.e., infinite Ohms) try attaching a temporary ground wire between the tank and a good chassis ground. If it still reads open circuit then there's a problem with the hot wire to the pump, the ground to the pump, or pump motor (internal). I had replaced the pump on my father's '84 Corvette three times because the car would sit idle/unused for long periods (a couple years at a time) and the pump would fail to run when it finally came time to 'wake-up' the car.

Not to hijack the conversation, but do all of the lights still work?

The GVWR and maximum axle load should be stated on a sticker on the driver's door or somewhere in the jamb.

Kerry, are you talking about laminate or LVT (luxury vinyl tile). All of the LVT that I've seen has been advertised as 'waterproof' and is available in lots of colors and faux finishes (e.g., wood planks and stone/tile).

Looks good. So, please refresh my memory; are the two carbs slaved together (i.e., working in tandem) or is it a progressive linkage (one opens ahead of the other). I thought you said that you were using the former configuration.

Have you ever seen any bubbles on the dipstick when you check it hot? As I said, I'm just reaching for anything I can think of. I'm afraid that everything will be pure conjecture unless you are able to get some pressure readings to support a thoughtful diagnosis.

He probably couldn't see you with those glasses on!

Well, if you can still find somewhere that does it, you could take the car to a shop that balances the wheel/tire assembly on the car. Downside is you'll need to re-balance if you rotate the tires (or swap wheel covers). OTOH, if you do find such a shop, they could balance a wheel sans the cover and then repeat the process with each wheel cover installed in turn. That would identify the heavy spot and the amount of weight needed to balance each one. You may be able to try the same process if you know anyone with an old bubble-type wheel balancer. Failing that, I might be tempted to rig something like what is used to balance lawnmower blades and check each wheel cover. Maybe use stick-on wheel weight tape in a void on backside of the cover at the circumference...?

Agree, however, I have seen trailers where each individual chain was twisted and then crossed, presumably to shorten them and keep from dragging. Best, however, to just remove any unnecessary links.

OK, wasn't sure if he meant the 4.5 or possibly Northstar (4.6). Carry on...

Sorry to hear that; I'm sure you have gone back over your path(s) several times combing the weeds along the roadside searching for them...

The Cadillac 4.5L used in the '87 - '92 Allante' and the 4.6L (Northstar) used in the '93 Allante' (and later Cadillacs) are totally different engine designs with no parts interchangeability.