mike6024

http://www.sonomamag.com/biteclub/cherished-french-cafe-closes-in-santa-rosa/ Here's one being used to promote a business. Looks like it could truck a lot of weight the way it is jacked up in the rear.

Standard and optional equipment link. Tires 7.00 13 4 Ply Rating Whitewall. https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits/Corvair/1969-Chevrolet-Corvair.pdf

It sounds like many people are having problems, even when doing it "right" and using the spacer. Bearing seats on the replacement drum could be an issue. http://geometroforum.com/topic/2096138/1/ http://geometroforum.com/topic/2777671/1/ I've just replaced my right rear wheel bearings twice in one week. On both occasions they were quiet for a hundred miles or so and then began to groan. I chalked up the first failure to my installation technique but even with new, proper installation tools, the second set is also beginning to groan. Has anyone had this trouble? Right now, I have two theories: one, the shaft is bent, or two, the spacer between that holds the inner races apart is not the correct length to make the inner race separation the same as the outer race separation set by the new brake drums. If I had all my tools here, I could have measured the drums carefully before installation, but I had no reason to suspect a problem today when set #2 started groaning. The spacer that separates the inner races must be exactly as long as the separation between the outer races that is machined into the drums. I bought some drums from a discount vendor and they were not machined the same as the spacer, the result was inordinate thrust loads on the bearings due to the compression from torque on the axle nut. This causes high rolling friction and pre-mature bearing failure. The only way I know to avoid this problem is to use a micrometer to measure the spacer, and the distance between the bearing seats within the drum. Make sure they are the same. Take the drums back, or have someone good with a lathe correct them if they are not.

OK I misread it. You can delete that garbage to clean up the thread. Sorry. When I see "spindle" I tend to think front wheel.

Not dead, here it is - 1934 Torpedo Cabriolet Phantom II

I would not hesitate to toss a lot of that merchandise into the scrap metal recycle just to make my life simpler. Of course I'm not talking about the starter and the water pump. Pipe wrenches you may be able to sell for $1 to $2 if you're lucky. Railroad spikes I have no idea; they could be worth something for all I know.

What's that thing in the third pic? Slide hammer puller? When I first glanced at it I thought it was a hone, brake cylinder hone.

Yes

$10k, and you can decide what type of engine to run in it, since the original is out and apart. Link- 1982 Delorean Yes, its been sitting in my garage for the past 28 years. It does not run and the engine is partially disassembled and there is no battery so it will not start. All of the gas struts are shot so the doors, etc will not stay up on their own. I was going to upgrade the engine to a Stage 3 engine from DMC and then I was going to install a Buick 3.8L supercharged V6 and then I was going to electrify it. None of it ever happened and now I am moving and it is not going with me. The pictures show lots of parts and upgrades that also did not happen.

yellow rims look to be plastic

Lets put it this way, he's not a worthy steward of a historic vehicle.

The wheels in question as I guess you all have already noted are radial spoke, cannot be drive wheels, cannot transmit torque. All 4 wheels on that early Ford have cross spoke lacing. The two front wheels on that steam powered trike look extremely close, only the very slight difference being the tensioning nipples are at the hub, not out at the rim. Otherwise a good match so far as I'm concerned. Many other possibilities out there as well I suppose, like carts and the three wheel bike without engine directly above.

http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d3fbfbf8700230d8b4d6f7/muffler There's 8 bolts

Diesel nozzle is the one w/o the rubber boot.

Outside diameter and rim width Also is there evidence of a hole in the rim for a valve stem, like to inflate a tube

Brass nipples on the spokes, and the way the bearing cups in the hub look are very similar to bicycle wheels. The difference is the spoke head is not bent at a right angle, it goes straight into the hub. Also spokes are heavy.

It would have an injection pump that looks like this I suppose. Seals in it could get damaged. I'd do like was said, clear the fuel system of gas. Drain the tank, and add some fresh pure diesel. Disconnect the lines that go to the injectors. Turn engine over to clear injector pump of gas. That is turn the engine over to see the pump clears the gas out of itself and puts out diesel instead. Reconnect the lines to the injectors. Safety first! of course! Don't let any gas or diesel spray anywhere. Collect and direct the disconnected lines into container(s). Is thus what it looks like? http://smclassiccars.com/chevrolet/337639-1984-cucv-chevy-d30-4x4-diesel.html

Here's some aerospace opportunities - http://www.spacex.com/careers/list http://www.usajobs.gov/Search?jt=Aerospace Engineer

Close, but no cigar.

No it is not. The guy thought that the numbers on it, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, ... that are actually 1/10 of an inch looked like mm's so he called it metric. The numbered marks do not look to be inches. The picture that was actually available to me at the time is no longer available. Alfa Romeo valve shims need to be measured rather accurately: Shims are available from 1.300 - 3.500 mm in thickness, in .025 mm increments.

I bought a Metric Mitutoyo micrometer that turned out to be inch. A full turn on the handle is 25 thousandths of an inch. Now I have to use my calculator when I measure something.

I think I saw Premier in the index of one of these "Bulb Horn" issues. The indexes are available online, but not the actual contents. You would have to find the issue it's in, then get access to it somehow. http://www.vmcca.org/the-bulb-horn/ The Bulb Horn Each issue of the Bulb Horn magazine contains fascinating articles of high interest to old car enthusiasts and automobile historians as well as providing technical pieces and feature articles on members’ automobiles. We are very proud of this magazine. It is now published six times a year and has been our club’s official publication since 1939. Bulb Horn Indexes are available electronically for 1939-48, 1949-1958, 1959, 1960, 1961, 1962, 1963, 1964, 1965, 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1960-1969. 1970-1979, 1980-1989, 1990-1999, 2000-2009, 2010-present.

ANFSCD is an acronym, abbreviation or slang word, Stands for 'And Now For Something Completely Different' Used when wanting to change a subject.

The Alfa pads won't work. They are 2 and 7/8 inches tall, and 2 and 3/8 inches wide at the top and 2 inches wide at the bottom. They have a taper to them, a trapezoidal shape.

Here is the Fiat and Alfa pads. Not sure if they fit. Since I have the latter I could measure. Fiat 124 1100 R Pedal Pad 105 Alfa Series