maok

Had no other option but to cut the bolts off, replaced them with 1/2" length versions which were perfect fit under the housing. After 2 hours of blocking it back with a large flat grinding stone. My arm has fallen off. Some Stag jointing paste with the paper gasket. Splash of colour 'teal blue', almost a match to the engine.

Thanks mate, but I am concerned that the solder between the housing and shaft may break if I apply too much torque. I'm thinking of cutting the bolts under the housing. There is enough remove to use slightly shorter new bolts when refitting.

Yep, its become 'character building' now...:(

Does anyone have a better method to unscrew the oil strainer cover? I cannot see any where for a spanner to attach.

Thanks Alex. You are becoming my personal advisor, and at a very good pay rate. I haven't put it back on yet. The 'She'll be right mate' technique I try to avoid but sometimes you just can't avoid it....:)

A very wise person once spoke the very same words.

Thanks. Good to know. It appears that an 'Aussie' did some work on this engine in the past. They used the good old aussie technique of 'she'll be right mate!' - left out 4 bolt and nuts from the bottom flywheel cover.

Time has come to finally to do a full oil change and find out why there is so much rtv around the oil pan. In this pic you can see a separate collar at the end of the pan. What does it do? There was a felt gasket between it and the pan, why? Sludge anyone? Cleaned with a wire wheel ready for painting. Some blockage in the pick up filter that will not dislodge, even with high pressure water. Method to hold the cork in place to trace the inside line. Sludge in the bottom flywheel cover.

Thanks mate! You are a top bloke. I cut the gaskets from flat sheet of cork, so wasn't sure of the over lap.

And don't forget the overseas 'TAX'.

I have also dropped the oil pan, and I am replacing the pan gasket because all the RTV that was used by the previous person has not worked in holding back the oil leaks. Just curious to know how you over lapped the two gaskets at the join? I also have used a 6mm cork for the end piece.

And make sure you are signed in.

Good. Any fuel? And is it new fuel?

We went for a full glamour style.

Just would like to sincerely apologise for my comments about being 'tight'. I may have offended some. And rightly, my post has been deleted. I am actually 'tight' as a rusted exhaust nut and bolt on a 1915 Model T Ford.

Thank you for posting. Just amazing!

I use Penrite T250. It is very heavy, almost like a warm honey. It does need to warm up before the box stops crunching. ie. driving a few hundred metres.

I have a instrument builder here in my home city, but like all instrument builders/restorers, charge two arms and two legs. Which is fair enough, they are not doing it for 'love'. But if any instrument restorer is listening, your help would be much appreciated. Otherwise, I will have to do some experimenting by bench testing to see how it moves.

I should add that the same fuel gauge looks to be common to Chrysler from 1927 to 1930. Just in a different dash mount.

If you are going to use a 2 to 1 adapter, then a weber 32/36 would probably work well.

Thanks gents. You are indeed correct in needing to be very gentle with it, but it does seem to feel fairly solid, I hope...:( This gauge was working 'okay' before the needle broke off. I say 'okay' because it has 12v running through it rather than 6v (a resistor may fix that issue), and hence the position of the needle did not correlate with the level of the fuel in the tank. But, also the sender may have some issues with it as well. The only issue at this stage is that the needle has broken off at the spindle, but never seeing where it was attached ie. looking from above the spindle, where in the 360o position it needs to be attached. I am reasonably confident of how the spindle sits between the two electro-magnets in the casing. If anyone has a spare laying about and would be kind enough to open it up and take pics of it, I, and others in the future would much appreciate it. But be careful when removing the face of the gauge, the needle would need to be bent up straight for the face to be removed ( two screws only), it is VERY fragile.

Any one have pics of the internals of a fuel gauge? I am trying to attached the needle to the spindle but unsure of which position to glue on to.

WOW!

Are you viewing on a mobile phone? This happens to me as well on my android mobile phone. Very annoying. No problems on a desktop windows machine

This happens on my mobile (cell) phone (android) as well. This new website for aaca.org seems to have an issue with either small screen resolutions or android mobile platforms.