maok

Bob you're a legend! It was definately blocked. I'm starting to grow back some of my hair....:) Here is the little bugger;

Thanks Bob for the diagram, yours is a whole of lot better than the one that was supplied with the kit. When I said 'main jet' in my first post I was actually referring to the 'Pump Valve assy'. the kit indicates that this supplies both. the idle and power circuits. When you say 'idle jet' do you mean the 'idle orifice tube'? Is this meant to have a small hole in the bottom of it?

Hi all, Having a hell of a time trying to get this carter BB1 (re-built) to work on the idle circuit. It will only idle above 800rpm on the power circuit. Adjusting the idle mixture screw has no affect at all, regardless if its screwed in all the way in or out. As soon as I screw turn the idle screw out to lower idle level under 800 it will cut out. Adjusting the power screw does alter the rpm from 800 to +1000rpm. Will not start unless I push on the throttle pedal. The ignition side of the engine (1928 Chrysler 62 - 180ci L6) is fine - it idles (at 500rpm) and runs fine with the Stromberg L1 carbie. I have pulled apart the bb1 many times now looking for any issues on the idle circuit but cannot see anything obviously wrong. I cannot see any blockages, the main jet that feeds both power and idle circuits has a ball in it that moves freely. I have the idle mixture screw 1 full turn out. Can anyone throw ideals my way to sort this out. I am going bald....:(

Hey Chuckles, If not too late, I hope this helps. My measurements may not be exact dimension but the best I could do.

Its a BONZA! More like my other forum I frequent.

After getting my hands on a Model A Stewart Warner speedo from a club member, I can confirm these are interchangeble. Difference are as stated above. The Ford internals on the LEFT and the Chrysler 62 (probably other models as well) on the RIGHT This is the Ford trip meter reset knob from the front. Does not fit into the Chrysler casing without being removed. I filed the bottom of the rod to release the washer to remove. This is the Chrysler trip meter reset knob from the back. Not sure how to remove as yet. Any suggestions? Back in the Chrysler case.

I used this stuff, https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=15&id_subcateg=86&id_products=88 Works well.

You generally don't go to 'earth' after a switch. Those two screws on the back maybe the output of the switch to turn on whatever.

Changed the oil to Penrite T250 axle oil which Penrite claim to be similar a weight to the old 600w oil. https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=14&id_subcateg=70&id_products=83 And about 200ml of the Lucas oil stabilizer. http://www.lucasoil.com.au/products/engine-oil-additives No leaks in 24 hours so far. Fingers and toes crossed.

Would this Penrite water pump grease be ok to use? https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=15&id_subcateg=87&id_products=88

G'day all, The Odometer in my Stewart Warner speedo in the 1928 Chrysler 62 is not spinning however, the speedo is working. I pulled it apart and the gearing of the odometer seams to be seized. Looking at the oval Ford model A stewart warner speedo looks to be the same apart from the out facia and the reset dial for the trip meter. Ford from the front and the Chrysler from the back of the Stewart Warner. Anyone compared the two internals to confirm if they can be inter-changed? Anyone have pics of the Ford model A version of the Stewart Warner speedo internals?

Yeah, I would expect it to be a thorough inspection process. Wiping or cleaning it thoroughly would not work because the drip would show up while in the inspection process. I would be extremely lucky if the inspector does not notice it.

G'day tricky, That body number looks very much like my 1969 Chrysler (Aust.) Valiant which is based on the Dodge Dart of the same period. Your Phoenix is DE 6 H41 - 81 my Val is VF 8 H29 - ### DE is the series code 6 is a V8 (and 8 is a six cylinder model) H is high price model 41 is four door 81 is your build number This full code would be your VIN for QLD transport, which how my Valiant is register with QLD transport.

Thanks gents. Yes, I did consider just giving it a wipe over, however, I doubt it wouldnt be noticible by the inspector. The local auto shop bloke recommended this stuff to add into the existing oil, http://www.lucasoil.com.au/products/engine-oil-additives

This was confirmed by my local vintage part caster, the two versions he makes as standard were slightly different to mine. http://www.vintageandclassicreproductions.com/chrysler.htm

G'day all, I have this wheel cap that is much larger than my model 62 caps. Im guessing its from later model Chryslers. Imperials?

Unfortunately the Chrysler manual does not state the weight of oil to use. I am not sure what is in it at the moment, however, it does seem fairly heavy weighted oil because the droplet stays on the diff casing for some time before falling. Im guessing its heavier than the typical diff 80w gear oil. There seems to be differing opinions on what is the best weighted oil to use.

According to some, Australia Day should be 1st of January (the 1901 Federation of Australia) and 26st of January is NSW Day. Or some would say Invasion day

Thanks gents. I was afraid of that. No, I have never assembled a diff before. I am looking to pass a Dept of Transport inspection and was hoping for an easy solution. Is there a product I can add to the gear oil that may slow or stop the leak that people have tried and it worked? Moe

G'day all, It is a very slow oil leak that needs addressing from the rear axle. The manual describes a oil seal leather but I cannot work out what bolt/nut tightens this seal? Im thinking if I simply nip a nut/bolt slightly tighter it may fix the oil leak. Probably wishful thinking. Keep smiling, Moe

Sorry for a late response. Couple pics attached. I'm leaning towards it being fuel. But does feel very oily.

It definitely is not running down from out side of the distributor or engine. The Tillotson carb is running very well, no flooding or leakage.

Thanks mate. That sounds like a very likely scenario of what could be happening. I have never pulled apart a flat head engine, so there must be a path from the distributor down to the inlet manifold in the engine block.

G'day all, Fresh red oil is leaking down the Tillotson updraft carb when the engine has been running and then turned off. Its a Chrysler 28 series 62. Where could the oil be coming from? I am assuming from the engine via the inlet (or exhuast) manifold. It is definately not engine oil. Only place I could image would be the distributor, the reason I say the distributor is that it is right above the inlet manifold on the flat head. Am I on the right path to this mystery?

In this case it was more adjustment of both sides. If it was a dodgy right wheel cylinder ( or hydraulics) then it would not be contracting the brake bands on that side. I adjusted out a little from the left and adjust in from the right. After a test drive today, it still needs a bit more fiddling around of both sides.