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Everything posted by ArticiferTom
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How do you use this? Zoo/ A Radiator Purger / Done
ArticiferTom replied to ArticiferTom's topic in Technical
Yeah, I'm hoping it is all top debris . If that does not work then it will be removal . This is modern type rad installed in mid 90's when restored by previous . The mid bottom black spot is license plate ,note . -
How do you use this? Zoo/ A Radiator Purger / Done
ArticiferTom replied to ArticiferTom's topic in Technical
Thanks , mostly what I was thinking on block . But can not take the very short lower radiator hose off .There is no heater core just stubs for future install . Thinking for using this to inject radiator and outlet block . Radiator is biggest concern know you can see blockages on this scan , only right side is passing heat . -
How do you use this? Zoo/ A Radiator Purger / Done
ArticiferTom replied to ArticiferTom's topic in Technical
Yes, just did some searching and found they still make similar guns . There is inlet on right and taper tip come off with garden hose threads on both . I have capped heater hoses and a partial block radiator was thinking of direct hookup to heater hose tap, leaving stat in. To force water out radiator top hose, removed from block on my 31 Plymouth 4 cyl. engine . Then removing stat to flush block . My concern was water pump . -
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Remember the rubber hose is an insulator measure temp at top of rad should match block above 140* as stat opens .
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Listed in my truck manual which ran either a 30-u or PA engine. Says starts open at 140 * full open at 180* .
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That's Not a Bond car is it . Check body badger ,to see if build by "Q" .
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Yes , circuit is just like descripted above . If after you pull all sw's in jambs and let wires out not touching any metal . Try lightly shaking wire harness in area you last worked . These individual wire join each other and go back to the courtesy lights at some point . You must also rule out courtesy lights themselves .The head light sw with courtesy on position, may be a little harder to test or define with out diagrams ,but it to works to ground out system .
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Anyone have a source for master cylinder banjo fittings?
ArticiferTom replied to 1940TORPEDO's topic in General Discussion
The Filling Station catalog pg 235 . My be there supplier can lead you to double ended . -
Technical - Trying to find a roof for a 1928 Graham Brothers P
ArticiferTom replied to a topic in General Discussion
Also depending on year of your Graham the Stockton production used some metal roofs . They the same as larger tonnage rated trucks .Pics man we want pics. !! -
Take a hand suction / pump from auto parts or tractor part store and put fitting with barb in oil journal plug just above acorn . Fill with oil ,hand push in , next journal over is tap of oil gauge, see if gage is working . They dry out and clog with deposits . Plus you will also lube the whole engine do about 3 tubes full min.. Take over-fill from engine if starting or do when drained . Remove line at gage and two diagonal screws hold gauge.
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Technical - Trying to find a roof for a 1928 Graham Brothers P
ArticiferTom replied to a topic in General Discussion
Have a Graham too. What measurements do you need ? I must do mine over but not till next Winter , soonest . The topping on mine is loose, so can supply info on sub structure . Inside wood looks straight forward . My plan is to fab total new roof for future install ,as whole roof simply bolts on to truck side framing . What are you starting with ? -
Just an update to finish this thread . Found vac leak at wiper ,to large tubing . Rebuilt needle and carb adjusted with vac . Still ended in starving for gas . Found 1/4" fitting at tank blocked with heavy rust ,not making or showing at filter . Starved out on acceleration . Removed tank as noted in new post . Today final hooked up tempory can and was able to that a drive ,plus make it back home 3 miles . Awaiting tank now . Truck ran good up hill and long accelerations ,did have small boiling over when got back . I think I need to do flush cooling system . Cap removal showed brown slime in antifreeze on cap . Thank all for help ! Tom
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Got old wires and loom pulled out . Was a rodent nest of my seat stuffing with it . There was no metal clamp at this hidden joint so rodents ate thought wire where three looms came together . I pulled 14-3 SJ cord in place and covered with friction tape where seen , until total restore is done some day .
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Great ! thats what thought was . Second of set found .
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That is a beauty !
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Hey! Handleman , you holding out on us . I've seen a couple '32 posts but no pics . tom
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Mine had same ,is probably water . In my case figure it came though roof leak down shift stick . only other is may be thought speedo cable . You'll have to take top off clean with kero and add new fluid . Get some sheet gasket material for new top gasket , and watch levels in proper gear when assembling .
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Had similar problem but was pulling coarse rust up to 90* connector on outside of tank . Only a problem on acceleration . There is a tube in side . In my case it is directly above the tank drain plug . And can be seen thought gage port also . but mine is a oval tank on a truck .
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Well ,finial got info back last week on repairing my tank from the radiator shop . They said could not fix and had fab shop price to build new was $725.00 . JPage, you got a deal ! So Iam now looking at cleaning myself . As I found a lady in welding shop that specializes in gas tank repair welding . She does not clean so must have it ready when dropped off . Attached are pics of after flushing and then after scraping the old coating, did back in 1990's . I believe the top coat separated ,dropped and caused rusting behind coating . and the rest alligator-ed, cracked ,but is clean under .
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gotch-ya.
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Yes , is keyed in neck but trim screws off . Never heard term wash woman ??? . What's that ? tom
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Hello Gary . I attached a pic of my fuel gauge ,looks to be similar . Mine was frozen , after removing and cleaning ,made some new paper and cork gasket it worked fine . the drain plug is probable 1/4" pipe thread . You have same size plugs in carbs and filters ,can get at any plumbing store . You should chase threads first with tap . But be careful with both , mine had it's hole stamped in tank and when I over tightened it cracked and leaks . By adding thread tape and loosening it is ok .
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I got my two plates both were poor condition .Made them look best I could , touch up some chips , closed a few hole back and WD'ed to give some shine .,and photo-ed . The cost is $ 75 for life of , other cost of 51 and 75 where required regardless , on new transfers and plate . However these may not be eligible for transfer to other vehicle of different year . But can follow to different owner .
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Thanks 30 Dodge , I did see gas tank.com also found a company tanks inc . They had Dodge tanks starting at 1933-34 coupes and sedans . They where just a little to long . But your PM of 20's Ford tank might fit in perimeters . Would have to close a few holes and add my parts . But price is reasonable . I have mine at radiator shop getting it priced for repair and rebuild . If not reasonable ,I have a fab shop that I can take it to and might just cut whole top out and solder new on . I'll probably seal it then, while open ,it can be sand blasted for good cleaning .