jimy

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About jimy

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 06/28/1964

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Owego, NY

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  1. I believe I am good here. The check from his local bank cleared well over a week ago. He has already warned me that it may take a while for shipping to be arranged. His name/address/occupation and interest in Triumphs checks out with google. No Ebay or Paypal was used for transaction. But yes - it is very hard to be 100% sure of these things. I have done this a handful of times and so far no problems. Jim
  2. My recent selling experience was deciding it was time to sell a 1964 Triumph motorcycle I have owned for over 30 years and did a restoration early on. I just love the bike - but to actually ride it - apparently not so much. Less than 500 miles put on it while I owned it. Just not worth the space for me to keep any longer. It does have a handful of minor issues that need sorting (I was DONE working on it - just didn't want to touch it again). I was given some advice on value: $3500 if sold locally and perhaps a fair bit more if I took my time and perhaps got a specialty broker/advertiser involved. The specific model of this bike is pretty rare. I advertised on several forums and received a lot of complements on the bike, but no offers. I wanted EASY. Put it on Ebay with a starting bid of $3999. NO bids. Got an Ebay msg a few days later and settled on $3800 (not using Ebay so no fees). The cash has been in my checking account for a couple weeks and the bike will be gone when shipping is arranged. I bet I have twice the selling price into it over the past 30 years. If I worked harder at the sale perhaps I would have gotten more? But I was LAZY and the summer selling season is winding down. You seem just like me except you haven't accepted reality yet. Jim
  3. Growing up in the 70's we had an old family version from the 30's and played it a lot.
  4. When this happens on my vintage Triumph motorcycle I ride it around the yard with the clutch pulled in and revving the throttle up and down. It usually breaks free quickly. I'm not sure about hitting the brakes while the wheels are spinning in the air. When I was fifteen I was messing with my 64 Valiant convertible that was parked in the snowy yard for the winter. I was trying to move it around and revved it up while the wheels were spinning in the snow. It didn't budge and for some reason I hit the brakes while the wheels were still spinning fast. Big noise and I had to replace the rear end. Jim
  5. Not found in a car, but when I was 5 years old I found one of those leather key cases that hold a key or two in a junkpile near our house. Embossed with "Gardner Oldsmobile " - a local dealer. Fast forward 45 years and my 35 Dodge (also my first antique auto) was ready for the road. Was looking for an appropriate key chain for it and remembered I still had that one. Put the key in it and enjoyed finally using it. Lost it within a week! grrrrrr Jim
  6. For my second series 35 KCL I modified some new plain baby moons to fit onto the original clips. Let me know if you'd like details. It was a cheap solution and looks much better than nothing. Actually - follow this link... https://forums.aaca.org/topic/284137-artillery-wheel-hubcap/?tab=comments#comment-1533910 Jim
  7. I do not have the build card, but I have added a picture of the engine number to my original post. I ended up registering the truck by engine number. When I got the truck back from restoration both the plates on the firewall were painted over and I couldn't even see that the numbers were there. Several years later I took the plates off and removed the paint with stripper. I was happily shocked that the larger tag looked as well as it did after the paint was removed. So I clear coated it and reinstalled. I may try to update the registration at some point. I believe I would need show it registered/titled by serial number to get the build card. Perhaps if I showed them my engine number and it matched up with the build card for that serial, they would provide the build card. It almost certainly has the original engine - the truck has been in the family since the 40's or earlier (not purchased new). Jim
  8. I have added pictures of the body tag, the truck, and the serial number chart (posted above) which implies to me that a 35 KCL should have a serial starting with 9. Jim
  9. Yes - it is a KCL with 119" wheelbase. And yes, 6 cylinder.
  10. My second series 1935 KCL shows a serial of 8,060,215 on the tag (I've heard it should be on the frame, but haven't seen it there. However if I look at the info posted above, that range should be KC, not KCL. Any thoughts?
  11. Well, I took a bolt out of each hinge and it appeared there was room to slide the hinge back toward the cab a bit. However, as I looked closer it became clear that the hinge was not going to slide. The bottom hinge on both doors appears to be one with the cab. It looks to be filled with body filler at the inner edge of the hinge plate - I would have to guess there is a weld under that. So, for now I think I will live with the door as it is... Jim
  12. Thanks again Surf City. 90% of the rattles and clunks are gone - the truck is a pleasure to drive now! Just a minor window rattle on the big bumps. I ended up using one shim with the new door wedge at the top. Using clay to measure, things appear to just contact at the top and bottom. Any advice on adjusting my drivers side door? No rattles there, but the bottom lip of the door sticks out about 1/4" from the body. Top of door sits in just a tad. Both edges seem pretty square with the cab. If I loosen the hinge bolts at the cab can the door be slid in? (and then adjust the latch at the other side to match. Jim
  13. Thanks! I ordered the part (plus the related shim kit). I'm very excited to (hopefully) eliminate/reduce my clunk. Jim
  14. I'm chasing door a big passenger door rattle in my KC and noticed something I don't understand about the doors. My first picture shows the top of the door. It sure looks like something is supposed to mount there. Perhaps a plate or piece of rubber? The second picture shows the corresponding location on the cab. Basically a fixed wedge. This is the second series 35 cab without suicide doors - 36+ doors may be exactly the same or perhaps had minor changes. My main question is just what is this and is something missing? As far as my rattle, the door that doesn't rattle has perfect paint in this area - no wearing down. With the rattling door almost closed, I can lift the far (door handle) edge of the door up perhaps 1/16" (maybe less) and I believe that is the source of the rattle. I do not have this movement on the quiet door. It seemed like the movement was at the lower hinge so I put a new pin on that hinge with no change. (When my wife is back in town she can move the door while I check the movement out better). I was able to adjust the latch striker plate on the cab IN to more firmly hold the door closed - I will take it out for a spin and see if that helps... I am curious what might be missing from my pictures and if perhaps something is meant to "wedge" the door firmly into position when closed. thanks, Jim
  15. His 59 just before he sold it in 2006 and then moving day from the early 1960's...