wayne sheldon

That is for sure! And, no, I do not know details. And no, I do not seriously wonder about it. In spite of the fact that I have known many people that show their cars there (mostly West coasters that do not have short term storage issues?), and have been aware of the storage situation for a very long time.

I love those 8N/9N tractors! When I was very little, my grandfather had three of them (wish I could have somehow gotten one of them!). At three I was learning how to drive them while sitting on my dad's lap. At six, I was driving them solo, and with some supervision pulling trailers out of the orchards. I was also with supervision loading pallets of peaches with a forklift! I haven't driven one since grandpa sold the ranch when I was about ten. I have restored about a dozen antique automobiles over the years. Most of them were little more than a pile of parts when I got them. And I have never completed a restoration. So one can clearly say all of them were done as "fix-ups". Most of them, by the time I had to sell them, were decent looking, running well, and sorted to the point that they could be driven fairly reliably on extensive tours. A couple, I was forced to sell before they reached the fully drivable stage. A bunch of them, due to their incomplete and poor condition, I restored in "stages". The first stage was to acquire most of what was missing, fix the major pieces enough to hold shape and bolt it all together. That was the stage of making the pile look like something that actually might be worth restoring. Seeing it like that was always a big morale booster. The next stage was to get it mechanically together enough to run and drive, and cleaned up and painted enough to look a bit better. Also two big morale boosters! The third stage. Was to play with it for awhile. Keep tinkering on areas that needed improvement, in between driving it and enjoying it more and more. It was also a time in which I would try to decide just how far forward I might want to proceed. Sometimes this stage took several years, and sometimes I never got beyond this point. Often circumstances forced me to sell the car unfinished. But usually, I got to have fun with the car for a few years. The intended fourth stage was to finish it. Replace any parts deemed not good enough. Repaint anything that needed it. And do all the final detailing. Maybe someday I will get to finish one?

Oh, YEAH! That looks like a great road machine!

Glad that you got it!

What a great ad! Thanks Walt G W2

Fifty years ago when I found the thing in a thrift store, sources at the library indicated that the blender was earlier than that. Like the model T Ford, I expect a lot more correct information is known and readily available today. Regardless, it is an interesting and early unit. I would like to know why the date is on it? But I suppose I never will. Fred Waring was a well known band leader, and began recording during the roaring '20s. As a longtime fan of music from the eras of the cars I love, I enjoy Fred Waring and his "Pennsylvanians" in his earlier work. Packed away with a lot of other things I collected over the years, among the over 2000 78rpm records I have, are a very few of Fred Waring's records. He continued to play concerts well into his old age. Along about 1980, several friends of mine went to one of his concert tours. I was unable to go as I had a sick child at home. They showed up in a couple 1920s cars, and met with Fred Waring before the show. He was an amazing entertainer! My friends said that he appeared quite feeble when they met with him. However, on stage, he lit up the place! Leading the band, dancing around, waving at the audience. A true entertainer to his very end.

On a car I had years ago, I carefully cut a very small hole on the inside of the pocket at one end. Then rolled a long piece of appropriately size elastic and fed it into the inside of the elastic's channel. A bit tricky, but finger manipulating through the fabric I pushed the end of the elastic all the way across, I then carefully, using an appropriate color thread and curved needle, sewed through the fabric and the elastic inside it on the far end. Once that end was safely in place, I pulled the elastic to a reasonable tension, cut it to length (heaven help you if you let go of the elastic at this point!), and again using the appropriate color thread and curved needle, again sewed through the fabric and the elastic. Again close and tight so close to the original seams that it didn't show. I did all that on the door because the interior was so nice I didn't want to chance taking it apart unless I really had to. Once I was done, the pockets were nice and firm, and functional like they were new. And almost nobody could see what I had done. I actually showed what I had done to a few people that commented on how nice the pockets looked.

I could really love that car! I wish I could afford it. I had to do a bit of a double-take when I looked at the photos in the listing. This Packard shows exactly 19 fewer miles on the odometer than does my 1927 Paige 6-45 sedan! When I was working on the car some years back, it really was wonderful working on such a low mileage car! With the exception of the clutch and transmission which the original owner had maladjusted and tore up, everything was in incredible condition. Most chassis pieces when removed were still like new, with even original machining marks not worn away. I had found a good transmission to replace the parts the original owner destroyed, and the clutch turned out to be an easy fix.

Years ago, I saw pictures someone had posted on the model T forum showing a very old, hard, dried out and warped, 30X 3 1/2 tire with a "Ford" script on it. I do not know when it was made? But obviously they did exist. I had nearly two thousand bookmarks on my old computer that partially melted down several years ago. I am pretty sure that thread was among them. Occasionally, when I have some time in a late night? I sort through years of old forums looking for threads I remember. But I haven't found that one yet.

Probably Paul Dobbin's fault!

That is the car in the National Automobile Museum collection! They have moved some cars around since that photo was taken. There was an 810 next to it, and an 812 across the walkway from it.

I wondered about the Cord article. But got interrupted. I eventually clicked to the links provided by 8E45E, and see those are for the Auburn/Cord prototype V12. There were couple Cord prototypes built around the mid 1930s. By pure coincidence, two days ago (Sunday), my son and his girl friend took me to the National Automotive Museum (Harrah's collection) in Reno, for my belated birthday! The museum has among its so many incredible automobiles, one of those in between Cord prototypes, or "experimental. The car is said to have been E L Cord's personal car for a number of years. I did take a picture, although the lighting wasn't great on the car. If I can get them out of my camera onto my computer? And if that photo came out well enough? I will try to post it here. (A lot going on right now. Might take a few days, if at all?)

I have a waring blender. It has a date code scratched into the underside that may have been a repair date. The date was in 1929.

Uh, no? I better not go down that path. Be good to yourself!

Your description had me hoping! But it isn't for my Paige.

That is a neat wooden folding chair in a couple of your photos. One looks just like a couple I have, that have a patent date of 1893 stenciled on the top back cross board. I used to use them for era picnic setups at some car shows, along with my 1920s Sears folding table. The bits and parts for the car are looking GREAT!

Been about 45 years since I was close to model A engine mounts. As I recall, the rear mounts were made of cut, stamped, folded, steel plate metal (about 3/16 inch?). They were interchangeable from side to side as up/down were equal. However front was front, back was back. The front engine mount was part of the front crossmember on the early and much of 1928 cars. A weakness in that design resulted in a modification to the front crossmember, and replacing it with a spring and rubber mounted "Y" to support the front of the engine. That "Y" had a slight offset. Could it have been flipped? Just a thought. Although generally, the model A rear mounts were quite substantial, and usually fit right in? That steel plate they were made of could be bent or twisted if the car were ever in a collision. It certainly would not take much for the bolts to line up well. I would imagine there are no signs of frame damage on the pickup? It is the uncooperative silly stuff that drives us nuts!

It may be newer than my primary era of interest, but I really like that Riley! If I were to try to run in that event in something later than nickel age, and not comfortable like a Packard coupe? That Riley looks like what I would want!

Could the photo be as late as 1925? The side curtains are unusual. They fold for easy storage vertically between the individual windows/lites. Dodge used that style of side curtains in the late 1910s and early 1920s, but I don't know for how much longer. The fenders, hood, and cowl do not look like Dodge of the early 1920s, however Dodge went to this similar style cowl about 1925? I think Studebaker might have also used that style side curtains on some models? But I am not sure about that. I do know that that style side curtain was also sold after-market to fit other cars. A friend about forty years ago had a set of them and a copy of their advertisement.

These little Renaults were about halfway between a model T Ford and a European cyclecar. For those not familiar with them, cyclecars remained popular in Europe due to the vehicle tax structuring that punished horsepower. Cyclecars mostly used motorcycle engines, on three or four wheels somewhere between a motorcycle wheel and a bicycle wheel. Their bodies were simple and lightweight, usually carrying one or two people. Although a few could carry three or four. However, Renault built cars in nearly all market positions. A good longtime friend had a 1925 Renault open front town car/limousine for many years! Short of a Bugatti Royale, one of the largest automobiles ever produced for the top end market!

As a point of clarification. On cars of the mid 1920s into the very early 1930s, the vacuum wipers and the vacuum tank fuel pump usually were run off of the same vacuum line (tubing, usually brass) from the intake manifold. Often, but not always, that vacuum line had a "T" fitting somewhere to split the vacuum between the vacuum tank fuel pump and the vacuum wipers. Again, often, but not always, that "T" fitting was mounted on the top of the vacuum tank fuel pump. Basically, one vacuum line, to two separate vacuum operated devices. I can't offhand recall specifically what? But I know I have seen and worked on a couple different cars that had two separate fittings into the intake manifold, one for the vacuum tank, and one for the wipers. I also know I saw a car that had the "T" fitting in the intake manifold, with two separate vacuum lines, one to the vacuum tank, and the other to the wiper motor. So I know that there were exceptions. Of course the whole thing gets different after about 1932. The vacuum tank fuel pump became old technology rather quickly after 1930. As surprising as it may seem, a lot of cars and trucks were still being sold new with vacuum wipers well into the 1950s! I have heard, but never seen one, that some of those cars and trucks had a vacuum tank of sorts to assist the wipers under the numerous conditions under which they would routinely stall. From an engineering standpoint, that idea is seriously flawed, so I doubt it was common. But simply calling out "vacuum tank" might be confusing to people familiar with them. Some cars and trucks had vacuum assist added onto their mechanical diaphragm fuel pumps. That idea seemed to work well, until the fuel pump failed and proper replacements were difficult to find (I remember my dad having that problem with his 1951 Chevrolet pickup along about 1965).

Wooden wheels. One of my favorite subjects! 45 to 50 years ago, I was a young adult(?) with a passion for antique automobiles. I had my 1929 Reo, and a model T speedster I had restored myself. There was quite a local interest in model T era speedsters and racing cars, and several activities specifically for them (the annual "200 mile Endurance Run" is still run this past June! A show promoter had an interest in promoting a "half mile" dirt track racing event in conjunction with another show he was promoting annually. A very good friend of mine was interested in running the races! So, for four years, one weekend in July, the Calistoga Classics dirt track racing reenactments were held for two days! Six to eight model T Ford speedsters and racing cars would put on two shows a day for nearly two hours each at real racing speeds on a slightly over half mile dirt racing track. This was a track that was used by modern sprint cars many many times the rest of the year. Those four weekends was pretty much the most FUN I ever had ever! Roughly one third of our cars ran on wooden wheels! Roughly a third on steel disc wheels. And the other roughly a third of the cars ran on wire wheels. Care to guess which ones failed the least? Believe it or not, In four years, two wooden spoke wheels broke. One broke the steel hub flange (the wooden spokes DID NOT break!), probably due to an old metal fracture in the flange. The other wood wheel broke after the tie rod on the car collapsed and caused the car to hit the wall! The wooden wheel did not cause the accident, the accident broke the wheel! Otherwise, damage was minor, and the car was back on the road within a couple days. In those same four years, steel disc and wire wheels broke three or four hubs, and at least two axles. And one wire wheel folded over. By the way, one of the fastest cars in those races ran on wooden wheels all four years! And I say "real racing speeds"? Most of the model Ts were running that over half mile in between 35 and 40 seconds. The two fastest model Ts (including the one on wooden wheels?)? Usually ran that over half mile in 31 to 33 seconds. The track record at that time? For the fastest modern racing V8 sprint car? 26 seconds. MOST sprint cars were running 28 to 31 seconds, and many driver's best times weren't as high as the two fastest model Ts!!!!! I love my wooden spoke wheels! As far as how dangerous they are? Inspect them closely! Check for damage. And make sure that they are TIGHT! As long as proper wooden spoke wheels are good and tight? Their safety should be one of your least concerns. Once you get used to them. Routinely check them for any signs of looseness or damage. If I am driving one of my cars a lot? I routinely check them every 500 to 1000 miles. If I am not driving my cars enough? I check them once a year. Wood, whether it has been recently replaced, or is over a hundred years old? Wood can suddenly decide to shrink for a number of reasons. But again, as long as they are tight and not damaged, they should be safe. Remember, accidents and collisions often break wooden wheels, regardless of how good they are or were. Good tight wooden wheels almost NEVER cause an accident.

I have had a couple of cars with "manual" wiper only. I also like using them. My current 1915 model T apparently never had a wiper of any kind, so that is how I am restoring it. The 1916 center-door sedan I had over 25 years ago had had a wiper installed on it way back. So that was how I restored it. I only kept it for a couple years after it was done, but once on a major regional tour, we got a significant rain storm for one of the three days of touring! I drove close to fifty miles that day, working the wiper by hand! (And loved every minute of it!)

Sad.

WELCOME!! You should be able to get lots of help and advice here. There are so many eras and areas of interest in antique automobiles, nobody is an expert in all of them. A longtime good friend of mine has had a couple 1920s and early 1930s Pontiac automobiles. He has recently become interested in the Oakland automobiles from which the Pontiac came. He is currently doing research and finding out more about their earlier automobiles. Your car looks like a good starting point. Hopefully the wood is good and body fairly solid. The seat cushions look very wrong, but with a little research there is a model T Ford parts supplier that will make good springs for almost anything! Researching era photos and sales literature should give you a good idea of how they should look finished. The top also looks pretty messed up. Again, people here should be able to guide you in finding someone to do it right. Or even if you want to do it yourself! Mechanically, it should be awakened carefully. Pulling the pan and changing ALL the fluids and lubrication should be done before any attempt to start it (unless it is already running? And even then?). Cars of the late 1910s are often referred to as "nickel era" cars. The "nickel era" refers to the nickel plating commonly used on a lot of the trim and brightwork during those years. Some cars of that era didn't have much brightwork. "Brass era" cars are generally considered to be cars built before 1916. While nickel era crosses over a bit from 1913 through 1927 when chrome began to take over. Some "nickel era clubs and tours extend a bit further past 1927, somewhere around 1930 to 1932. AACA of course encompasses all sorts of collector automobiles 25 years old and older. There are many many clubs that specialize in different marques, eras, or various other distinctions. There is even a national club (POCI) for Pontiac and Oakland automobiles! Also an AACA forum subsection for them where you can find links to POCI. https://forums.aaca.org/forum/47-pontiac-oakland/