robert b

Had trouble uploading pages not in order but pages 10 and 11 and pic will give you the information on the metering pin setting , if more help needed ask bob

Gary latter tonight I will copy the needle adjustment instructions to set the needle height ,very easy but better to read it from the Stewart book than me describe it to you , also you could try taking off the vaccum line on the vaccum tank an block it and try a start, the reason being that the vaccum could be holding back the fuel flow to the float bowel ,if it runs for a longer time than before it is possible the flap valve in bottom of the inner tank may not be sealing and when vaccum is applied .It is possible that the switch vent valve in the top of the vaccum tank could also be not letting the inner chamber to vent and hold back fuel flow , or the vent tube be blocked by a insect nest ,just things to check . more latter Bob

Thanks cahartley . Bob

Some pics for anyone who has not seen the needle and rack apart. note the face on the washer with the step goes to the pin side. Bob

On the top of the round rack is a screwdriver slot that allows you to separate the rack and the hollow nut , below this is a brass washer that is soldered to the bottom of the pin ,when reassembled the pin and washer are held in place by the hollow nut and allows the pin to move freely in the rack . The reason for this is so it does not rub or get caught in the air valve and stays in the rack . The pin must be free in the rack. Bob

Is it a Model AA truck frame, would explain the length Bob

you might find this helpful to. Carter BB1 Carburetor Instructions and Parts List.pdf

Yes there is a 0.023 " hole in the tube and can block with the smallest grit and no fuel to the idle circuit,. Good luck Bob

I have sent you a pm . bob

Have you taken out the idle jet in the lower half of the body to see if it is clean ?, the idle circuit is fed through the adjustable main jet on the bottom of the carburetor. There is no ball in the main jet. More info if needed . Bob

Looking at your previous post pics these could be from a 29 DeSoto tourer . Supply some sizes and I will check with my car . Bob

As these doors are in Australia and are of wood frame it would suggest that are a local made body , there for they could be from a Chrysler, Dodge or DeSoto body . If you give some measurements it would things much more easy to compiare to known

[attachment=On looking at your manual pic it appears that you have only a crank shaft thrower on the rear main and oil drain to sump . There looks to be a baffle system in the drain ,could this be blocked ? Bob

There is a modern seal replacement for the rope type seal that fits 29 DeSoto to 39 Dodge from Automotive Surplus in Melbourne. The seal is a two peace with three bolt holes in each half that bolts to the block behind the flywheel . You will have to remove the flywheel to replace it . Have just done a 29 DESoto and a 39 Dodge in past few months . Will get the part number for you tomorrow ,ring Automotive Surplus and talk to Reg or Bernie ,should be able to help . If you have any trouble advise me and will get more info . Bob

The Rootes that he is refering to is the ENGLISH firm of "ROOTS GROUP ' a car maker in England that made Humber ,Hillman ,Singer , Alpine , Hillman Inp just to name a few. What Richard is talking about is when Chrysler took over the Roots Co in Australia they were going to call the merger " CHRYSLER - ROOTES - AUSTRALIA ". Any one that knows the history of the motor car in the world would have known of the ROOTS GROUP makers of motor cars.

Ron Ihave sent you a PM. Bob

Ron have a look at AM99 Dodge Brothers Club Mag, might be of some help. Will keep looking in my books for more Bob

The plates below are from an English text book dated 1907

john jackson I would check for vaccum leaks on your in take manifold gasket , or other connections that may be on the manifold , these leaks lean your fuel mixture and can give results like you have stated . Just spray wd 40 or some thing similar on the area where the intake to block gasket is ,if the engine changes speed you have a leak . This is a very common thing as in the last 2 month I had 3 cars with this fault. Bob

Ray from the pic it appears that there is wear on one side of the cylinder than the other along the pin axis , as the rings on these engines come right to the top of the bore one would expect even wear all the around the top of the bore, by this pic I would say that the rod has a bend to the front of the engine, check the piston at the top rear and lower front for scuff marks .Bob

Ray another thing to check is the rod alignment , only a small bend on such a long rod can cause the piston under load to strike the cylinder along the pin axis ,this noise will not show up until an engine has " run in " as every thing is tight . A rod aligning jig is necessary to detect even a small amount of misalignment , you may be able to see some light wear on the piston on the top and bottom on the edge of the piston on the pin sides as an indication of possible bent rod. The noise is rather like a clatter or like a piston slap . Ray are these pistons of solid skirt or split skirt ? regards Bob

Ray after following this thread there is one thing that has not been suggested to check which will happen on these engines after long usage is the shell fit to the rod and crush clearance of the shell . These shells being of bronze have tendency to move in the rod and will sound like a bearing knock as you describe , if you examine the edge of the shell where the shims and spacer place pressure on the shell you will see wear marks at this point . The shell needs at least 0.002 to 0.003 " inch above the edge to be able to get a good crush in the rod, you may also see bright marks on the back of the shell which is a good indication that the shell has been moving in the rod. Possible solution , 1 Best - replace with new shells , 2 Surface the rod and cap end to give crush on the shell, 3 last resort is to back the shell with a shim which will lift it up in the rod but also close the clearance on the sides of the bearing near the shims. No 3 will work but you will need to scrape the bearing to get side clearance and you will need more crush clearance to hold the shell and shin tight in the rod , I wood only do this as a last resort to " get home " measure in the case of failure on a tour . Will give more info if required , regards Bob

I agree with keiser 31 but a fist I thought it could be a Dodge Brothers Standard Six box with the 4 bolt frame mount (wrong side of the car of course being LH drive ) to our Aussie ones . Bob