robert b

It takes a lot to go there every day but with the help of some great friends things are coming back , I dont know how say thank you to these people and there support ,they have being truly amazing. bob

The ground floor of the workshop has never had water in to the building but a break in a levey wall and a storm cell that dumped some 700 mm of rain during the night resulted in levels never seen before . The cars are being saved, the work shop and stock and tools are a on going work Bob

In late March flooding in the Tweed Valley done a lot of damage to the town of Murwillumbah and my workshop . This is just some pics of the aftermath of this flood. The water level in my work shop was allmost to the top of the roller doors.

What information do you want on the ignition , they are very straight forward to time , " IGN " mark on flywheel with No 1 at TDC , 1342 fireing order, set with advance lever at full . very simple Bob ps these engines must use split skirt pistons with 0.002 clearance, there is no temp controls on the cooling system so you must use pistons that can expand and contract with changing temps.

Never thought about big end shims, good question ,may be hole clean up after broaching ? bob

Ray I have all ways put the chamfer to the block side , I would think this to allow for any slight pulling of the stud in the block to allow flat seating of the shim. The studs go deep into block and are pinned, so one would not expect them to move , but if some in the past over tightened them it is possible for them to pull.Have not seen any that have pulled in the block to date, but it is always possible. Hope this helps. Bob

good queston will have a look in the next day or so bob

Found the books , will copy the pages and post today bob

I cant find the books , they should have been where I last left them in my office some months ago , they may be at the workshop latter to day will look bob

I will have a look at the core book to see if they are the same size , but the tank and hose fitting my be different places , will look tonight and let you know. Bob

Good to see that you made it ok , I see you list Casuarina and the Gold Coast both of which is less than half an hour away from me , if time permits call me 0423 659 123 for a chat Bob

So what motor are we talking about here, a starter generator motor that has timing gears or the 128 motor that has a morse chain that runs the camshaft and generator ?

F&J any good core maker can remake you a core the same as you have but the tubes will be straight rather than at a angle or they may be stagered to improve air to tube air flow .If the radiator is seen at the front of the car a flat fin tubular core is the way to go . If you need advice just ask Bob

F&J could not get pics done to day had to wait for a DC8 Dodge to come in late , will do something tomorrow . Bob

F&J The tubes are locked seam and soldered , no trouble there and yes the porosity you speak of is solder decay called " bloming " in which the solder turns powdery and loses its bond . This comes from long term acidic or electrolitic action in which the tin and lead decay to a oxide, yes you can seal the tubes from the in side as you have done sand blast clean , tin the tube and header and than run a bead of solder around the tube . I will see if i can post some pics of me doing this later to day , to give you some idea of what to do . Bob

F&J is possible that the fin stock is steel and not brass , Ford truck radiators were steel HD types Bob

F&J always keep the flame of the torch on the tank not the header and this will keep the heat away from the tubes so as not to melt the solder around the good tubes and create more troubles with the tubes . Is the baffle plate flat or half round, just can not tell in pics , would expect water level to be 1 to 2 inch below filler neck hot ,lower when cold . The baffle is to stop the water pump from pushing water at the cap or overflow tube. Bob

Some pics of a Dodge Senior Six and Model A Ford

F&J here is some pics of a 15 "Alldays &Onions " and a 23 Lincoln that I have done work on of late . Bob

Always remove as little as possible as far as the tanks go , if no leaks than leave ,you would solder on air side and as for the middle tubes they can be hard to get at some times . You may have to leaver the fin stock down on each side of the in side ( fan side , which is seen less than the out side ) to gain access to the center row , small hand sand blaster down the side of the tubes will clean them . LP gas and oxygen and a hand torch with a number 8 tip under cut for the pin point flame ,about 1/4 netural flame ,zinc chloride flux and 60/40 solder should do the trick . Remember clean three times and than solder than wash very well after to remove flux . Bob

F&j there are a few things to consider before attempting repair , what is the core state that is are the fins in good order and still attached to the tubes , are the tubes seamed, if so is the soldered seam in tact, if you have only a few tube to header solder " bloming " that is the solder is decayed and has fallen out than they can be sand blasted and resoldered by a qualified radiator repairer . The number one thing is that the brass must be clean and bright before attempting any form of repair. Dont try to remove the header from the core you can do to much damage to the tube seams and very difficult to seal .The type of torch to be used is most important and the flame temp is critical to not over heat the tubes along side them. This is just the being of the things to consider before attempting such a repair . More info if needed ,some pics would help me give more info . I am a radiator repairer of some thirty years and a lot of vintage and veteran repairs .Bob

Ray the rotation is only about 10 degrees and the spring rotates an returns back to the seat . The amount of rotation is only enough to disturb the seat face to dislodge any carbon . The valve does not rotate in a circle , just a oscilation .The keeper is solid and the pin wear is normal , have seen 1/8 pins worn to about half their size.

Ray on the 128 engine the valve , keeper, and follower is the same as yours , the valve rises the cam follower rotates in turn turning the valve as it lifts from the seat and in turn rotates as it seats again . The valve does not rotate in a circle but rather a quarter turn . This rotation is done by the follower running of center to the cam lobe . More info if needed. Bob