robert b

Yes Rich that is some thing i forgot to mention that clamping of the bolt cam cause some change , but these diffs are very forgiving in there set ups , as long you have the least amount of noise in both directions that is all you can hope for on a 80 plus year old diff , the real test will only come when you put it on the road and hear what noise is there ,and if its too much we will find a way to correct it even if i have to give another crown wheel and pinion and start over. regards Bob

It might work on small bumps but hit a big one and see the arm snap off, had a bloke do this here , filled it with grease and he found out the hard way when both back arms snapped of , I tell you it cost a him a lot of money for me to supply replacements . complete units .

Keith are you looking for the out side housing that holds the speedo gearing in side that is in tern held in the dash OR the internals of the out side housing . There two sizes used in the Standard Six , one that is the same for the 128 ,and 140 cars (large one ) or smaller one some as 140 ,130 and may be DA (with out looking in parts list to confirm ) ????? I gather this is for a 1928 Standard Six and not a 1926 car ?

Because we are dealing with worn gear mesh results like this will show up , the tooth contact on flank side is looking good , drive side could be due to uneven wear. If you have found the spot of least noise in both directions than that is the best you will get. bob

Rich take the pinion out two notches and move the ring gear in one notch and see what happens , looks like pinion in to far bob

Richard I am inclined to try Ron sugestion with lipstick and see if we can get a better showing , wear is the big problem with setting these 80 plus years on . by the showing on the lee side the centering looks good but to far in mesh . The showing on the drive side is too hard to tell ,and as Ron sugests try lipstick as it will be a bit thicker , talk to you soon Bob

By the shape of the missing filler fitting one could suggest early 1930 s chev radiator , from 1928 the to fitting was this half circle shape on the to tank , made by Harrison Radiator for GM , possible Bob

Rich when are going to put this togeather , talk to to me when an we can go ovrt it

Richard there is no manuals for these cars , so we can only go by means from the previous models up to 27 , will chat to you about this latter bob

There is NO spring on that pin , it must be free to travel up and down as the float rises and falls . The two long springs cause the levers to over center and trip the valve to switch from vaccum to air vent to allow the fuel to flow from the inner tank. The conection on the out side of the tank there is a vent only and no fuel is any were neer it . It vents the outer tank always and the inner by the valve , the free movment is there to allow the over center work of the levers and springs to work in relation to the float level and fuel height in the inner tank . The vaccum is closed by the inner plunger and brass seat in the tank top ,this is also controled by the spring and levers action. Bob

Try Studebaker , looks similar , think i still have the peddle part some ware. bob

I think the camera man needs to stop shaking a bit. Sorry, guys. Some more of it finished tomorrow. b\Bob

The latest job in shop, a Model A Ford radiator rebuild.

1928 to1929 dodge brothers standard six, victory six and da oil pump by my samples and matchinf part numbers bob

Yeh we here in Australia watch this Keiser fellow with great interest as he seems to know to much to soon , he has to be a scammer . ha ha ha good work mate you beat them all always good to see your posts Bob

Richard the rails are straight along the length . bob when you can ring me bob

Sorry the pages are not in order thats the way they were copied , print then and sort in order , the diagram is two pages .Bob

Jan can you take some pics of your frame numbers for us to see what you are looking at please Bob

The " D " motor prefix is what should be in the car , by the shape of the wind screen shade it is a 124 style body. The later 128 frame being shorter used he same motor but there numbers start 1 *** *** that is 1 and six didgets following . Either motor could be used but the rear cross member or rear engine housing bolted to the engine will have be changed as they are of different width across the rear frame mounts and bolt holes

I have identified it due to the engine mounting system as the 124 and 128 are the same frame mounts hence the same motors . Jans numbers and 124 production dont line up on what he has presented , a 9 as first number would be more like it .

The car that you have is a series 124 and the motor that you show in the pic is for a previous model not that car. The motor for that car is often called a fast four motor Bob

just standard gasket paper about 0.6 mm would do for front , 1/8 inch cork for the rear with sealer on one side only so that the cover can be removed at a later date

Richard that will be fine as it only a transfer pump not a pressure pump, it only lifts oil to the troughs and only runs at about 5 to 10 pounds.