cudaman

I have both in .pdf form. Unfortunately, this forum does not allow .pdf attachments. Send me a PM with your email address and I will email the .pdf files to you.

My suggestion would be to talk to Rob Heyen, he owns a Model N and a Model K roadster. You can reach him on Facebook or via the MTFCA forum. He is also on the Early Ford Registry site.

1970 / 71 Plymouth Barracuda 'Cuda. The one with the extra lever is the driver side "six way" adjustable seat. From the factory, the floor pans had extra bracing on the undersides. https://www.hamtramck-historical.com/installing6wayseatadjuster.shtml

Saw this online, I have no experience with them: https://fortwayneclutch.com/product/cone-clutch-14-5-cone-clutch-relining-refurbishing-labor-cone-clutch-rebuilder/ It will help if you have specifications on the thickness of the original leather material when it was new. If the rebuilder installs leather that is too thick, the clutch may not release.

Didn't one or more young museum guests have "conversations" with the ghost?

If you can get to the HCCA classifieds, you don't have to select a category, just continue to scroll to the bottom. You will see that there are two pages of ads. The oldest ad is seven months old. Based on the notice on the HCCA forum page, the HCCA will stop supporting its own forum in early 2024 and will use this (the AACA forum). It looks like a link will remain that will take you to the legacy HCCA forum threads.

These are great reproductions. I installed one in my 1912 Flanders Runabout and bought another one as a spare.

Try 0.030 inch to start with. Make sure your coil, points, condenser, and spark plug wires are in good shape. If the engine misfires under load and you're sure that the other ignition components are good, close the gap to 0.025 and try again.

Matt, you probably already know this, but those appear to be Kelsey felloes, they use rim bolts, clips, and rim nuts like these, readily available from the Model T vendors.

Great pics! If your hubs have a radius at the inside edge, don't forget to machine a chamfer at the ID of each spoke base to make room for the hub chamfer. Also, if you choose to stain or paint your spokes before wheel assembly, keep the paint/stain away from the faces where the spokes butt together, or it may interfere with how they fit to each other.

If you haven't done it already, building a wheel press will make final assembly of the wheels much easier. Here are plans and a picture of one I built for my Model T Ford.

I had no idea that Pontiac even made a four door Grand Am! 😮

In the early teens, the United States Tire Company (now Uniroyal) published a pamphlet entitled "How to Keep Down your Tire Expense". The Operator's manual for my 1912 Flanders 20 says that every Flanders car (and I assume every EMF 30 as well) came with a copy of the pamphlet. Try as I might, I haven't been able to find an electronic copy online, does anyone have a print copy or electronic copy of this pamphlet? My Google search has revealed several trade publications that refer to the pamphlet, but don't have the pamphlet itself.

The building was originally the home of the Wayne automobile company, then purchased by EMF. After Studebaker acquired EMF, they built EMF / Studebaker 30s there, at first. http://emfauto.org/EMF_photos_factory.php The plant burned to the ground in 2005.

Addco used to make custom bars, you might try contacting them directly: https://www.addco.net/

My current cars are a 2007 Honda Element with a 5 speed manual with synchros, a 1912 Flanders 20 with a 3 speed manual with no syncros, and a 1924 Model T Ford with a 2 speed planetary transmission and a Ruckstell 2 speed rear axle with no syncro.

Thanks, I didn't realize that the toll would be cheaper with EZ pass.

Rare, but not necessarily desirable (unless you're restoring a Flanders or EMF 30), original Flanders and EMF 30 carburetors. EMF chose to design and manufacture their own carburetors instead of buying them from a supplier.

Robert's memory appears to be correct. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flanders_Automobile_Company The "new" Flanders Motor Company of 1912 didn't last long, because Walter Flanders was soon asked to rescue the dumpster fire that was the United States Motor Company after Ben Briscoe left. He agreed, and started chopping away all of the non-essential makes (including Flanders), creating a much leaner and stronger Maxwell Motor Company.

Bloo is correct, "fore door" means the body has a front door, kind of a new thing in 1912. The Flanders is right hand drive and has only one door, on the side opposite from the steering wheel.

Thanks! I was very lucky that the car still had its original Splitdorf Model F magneto in working condition. I was able to find a nearly NOS correct Flanders carburetor at Hershey a couple of years back. Members of the EMF registry (especially Daryl Kemerer) were very helpful providing the correct lamps, coil box, and floor mat. Here are some pics of the car in its essentially finished state. Also, many thanks to Classtique Upholstery for using my original leather seat material as patterns to make new leather seat covers.

That 2007 Element is the best daily driver I have ever had! It is coming up on 190,000 miles and I fully expect it to go at least that much more. It is a base model 2WD 5spd car, so no automatic transmission or rear differential to worry about.

It's been a while since I posted an update. A few months ago the car started having difficulty climbing hills, although it would start up and run fine sitting on level ground. After much investigation and sorting out of the fuel and ignition systems, I finally found the culprit - a broken porcelain in the #3 spark plug. The break was on the part of the porcelain inside the cylinder, so I didn't notice it until I removed the plugs and noticed that #3 rattled when I shook it. I removed the Bethlehem five point plugs and installed a set of Edison 13s. The car is again running normally and climbs hills well. Here are links to the the last video while the car was acting up and the next video after the plugs were replaced. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=geDD4uECyME https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWLtDWcFmjA

Sounds like something a driveshaft shop would be able to deal with, or at least offer advice on.

Leif is correct, Flanders hubcaps were plain brass until some time in late 1912, when Studebaker started stamping their brand name into them.