cudaman

I looked in the HCFI research library to see what they had for Metz documents. Unfortunately, I didn't see much info on the two cylinder "plan" cars. Here is a link to the site if you want to look for yourself, you may have to create an account with them to view the documents. https://www.hcfi.org/library/automobiles/metz

Some '70s Chrysler cars had an anti-dieseling solenoid on the carburetor. When the car was running, the solenoid extended and the curb idle screw rested on the end of the solenoid. When the car was shut off, the solenoid was de-powered and the Idle screw dropped to nearly shut the throttle blades.

The tools were contained in the first kit, or what Metz called "Group 1". A list of the contents of Group 1 is attached. I have the manual in .pdf form, which is not an allowable attachment format in this forum. If you want a copy of the .pdf file, PM me with your email address and I will send the file to you.

It sounds like the magneto output is being grounded somewhere before it can reach the spark plugs. Do you have a shutoff switch? Did you accidently leave it closed when it should be open to run the car? If I still have your email address I will send you a Bosch magneto manual in .pdf form. The forum doesn't support .pdf attachments (why?).

Contact these folks: https://studebakerdriversclub.com/?page_id=24671

Glad to hear that the magnet recharge made a difference. You were smart not to let the magneto continue to spark and use the safety gap, it might start sparking internally and damage the windings. I have heard that without a keeper, the magnets can lose some fresh charge just in the act of removing the magnets from the charger and installing them onto the magneto. Maybe a member with more magneto experience than you or I can chime in. Hopefully someone more reasonable will offer up some Champion 32 plugs for you. It doesn't sound like the 34s are all that much recessed in the head.

I have dual ground strap Edison 13 plugs in my 1912 Flanders and made both gaps the same, 0.020. I couldn't find any period guidance that said to do otherwise, it seems to work fine. The point gap inside the magneto should be the same, 0.020 inch. I wonder if the Champion 34s having too short a reach could cause a problem, I would assume that the electrodes are recessed partway up the spark plug hole in the head. Hopefully someone will step forward and offer you a set of Champion 32s or similar longer reach plugs. I used to have some, but sold them years ago.

What is your spark plug gap? The gap should be narrower for a magneto ignition, around 0.020" max.

Plugs usually have to use a narrower gap with a magneto than what folks are used to with "modern" cars. If the magneto gives you quite a shock, then there ought to be enough to jump the right spark gap, IMO. I run no more than 0.020 inch gap on the plugs in my 1912 Flanders.

There is an original Metz Price List of Parts booklet currently for sale in the HCCA classifieds. https://hcca.org/acadp_listings/books-wheels-radiator/

Lots of good Metz stuff in this thread if you haven't already seen it.

If I recall, standard (not super duty) Pontiac V8s had cast nodular iron connecting rods in the '60s and '70s.

Sounds like you've chosen the approach to getting the aluminum Model T pistons to work with the Metz rods. I guess the next thing to do would be to mock up one piston/rod assembly on your crank installed in the block and make sure that the top of the piston is where you want it at TDC. Then calculate the resulting compression ratio using your head gasket thickness and combustion chamber volume. Based on what I have read in the past, a Model T head gasket will work on a Metz with slight modifications. An old story is that Model T hot rodders would install a Metz head on their Model T engines to boost the compression ratio because the Metz chamber volume is smaller than a Model T. Rule of thumb is that the stock Babbitt bottom end on a Model T is good up to a compression ratio of 6 to 1 or so, although I'm sure some have pushed the limits. Do you have a set of the super-long reach spark plugs to fit the Metz head? If I recall a Champion 32 has the correct reach. A Spltdorf P141 will also fit.

What is the pedigree of these parts, did you purchase them or did they come with the car? The rod appears to be forged, is it an original Metz rod, or something else? The piston looks like an aftermarket aluminum design, much lighter than the original cast iron, which is a good thing as long as it fits your finished bore size and the top of the piston sits at the correct height in the bore when at TDC. This might be a good time to slow down, step back and consult an antique engine builder and other members who have rebuilt Metz engines in the past.

I don't think stock Model T Ford valves had hardened stems. This video talks about valve installation on a Model T engine and Mike mentions that they ground 0.1 inch off of the tip of each valve prior to assembly. The original two piece valves have a reputation for breakage - most folks install modern one piece valves, available from the Model T vendors.

I recommend Russ Furstnow for all thing speedometers, he did all the work on the Jones speedometer setup on my 1912 Flanders, including the drive cable and housing. http://antiquespeedometer.com/

I have a 1912 Flanders with its original, functioning Splitdorf Model F magneto and a rebuilt coil box with a "modern" 6V coil in it. I have a 12V lead-acid lawn tractor battery under the seat to power the coil for starting, it works fine. Once the engine starts I switch it to magneto. The owner's manual shows that the original battery was a bank of four 1.5V dry cells wired in series in a crude wooden box, so I made a replica for display. If I had to run the car full time on the battery I would probably switch to a 6V or 8V lead-acid battery to keep from overheating the 6V coil.

I got your PM and sent you three files in three separate emails. Enjoy, and good luck with your project! If you haven't already seen it, here is a video of a driver's review of a Metz:

If you have a user manual for the car, it should have a section in it on how to time the magneto. It will provide further clarification on the timing marks. I have a 1912 Metz instruction manual in .pdf form, but this forum doesn't allow .pdf attachments. PM me with your email address and I will send you the user manual and some other 1913 Metz files.

They are markings to help you time the engine. The 1,4 mark denotes top dead center for cylinders 1 and 4 and 2,3 denotes TDC for cylinders 2 and 3. To get TDC on the firing stroke of cylinder #1 you need to verify that the #1 piston is coming up on its compression stroke by holding your thumb on the #1 spark plug hold and feeling the compression building, then slowly rotate the engine until the 1,4 markings on the flywheel point straight up. Here are pics of similar markings on the flywheel of my 1912 Flanders. The Flanders flywheel is also marked with the camshaft events, like EX-OP for exhaust open.

Kim Dobbins has posted an ad for a pair of two cylinder timers on the Early Ford Registry, here is a link. Kim knows early Fords but doesn't know the application for these timers, perhaps someone here will recognize them and be able to use them. I have no connection to the ad or the seller, just posting this in case someone here is interested. https://earlyfordregistry.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1288

I'm pretty sure that it is thin layer of vacuum deposited aluminum with a clear coating to keep it shiny.

Check out the early Ford registry: https://earlyfordregistry.com/

Other possible sources are Smith and Jones auto parts and Queen City auto parts.

I have used the Eastwood exhaust manifold coating on many of my cars, it works great! Shake the can well prior to application, it has a lot of suspended solids in it. No need to spray, just wire brush the manifold to remove the loose stuff and brush on the coating. Brush marks don't show and it lasts for years. You can touch up spots with a brush and it will blend together with the old stuff. Like most manifold coatings, it smokes a bit on the first startup, but settles right down and gives good service after that.