Taylormade

Maybe it just takes longer with a rebuilt motor. I guess I'll just keep at it and see what happens. I think the oil pump/distributor drive is geared to the camshaft, so I don't see any way to spin it with a drill to prime it.

Cranked for a total of sixty seconds, ten to fifteen seconds at a time. Still dry as a bone at the oil outlet. Maybe I'll have to actually start the motor to get the revs up enough to get pressure.

I currently have a hose running into a jar, so there shouldn't be a mess if oil finally comes out. I'm probably being too cautious, but I don't want to damage anything.

Getting ready to start my rebuilt engine for the first time - a 1932 Dodge Brothers six. I have the plugs out and have cranked the motor over a few times in five second bursts. Everything seems to be working okay - no unusual sounds, grinding metal or catastrophic failures. I currently have no oil pressure gauge hooked up, but the connecting line is attached to the oil output. So - do I need to have the gauge attached to get any pressure out of the line, or should oil start squirting out of the line as soon as the pump is primed and pumping oil? Currently, nothing is coming out. I have turned it over four times in five second bursts. I don't want to damage anything, but I obviously would like to confirm that oil is circulating before I attempt the actual start up. How long does it usually take for a fresh motor to oil up?

Getting ready to start my rebuilt engine for the first time. I have the plugs out and have cranked the motor over a few times in five second bursts. Everything seems to be working okay - no unusual sounds, grinding metal or catastrophic failures. I currently have no oil pressure gauge hooked up, but the connecting line is attached to the oil output. So - do I need to have the gauge attached to get any pressure out of the line, or should oil start squirting out of the line as soon as the pump is primed and pumping oil? Currently, nothing is coming out. I have turned it over four times in five second bursts. I don't want to damage anything, but I obviously would like to confirm that oil is circulating before I attempt the actual start up. How long does it usually take for a fresh motor to oil up?

I had exactly the same reaction. The show has been a long running success, and there is no way they couldn't come up with that kind of money in a heartbeat. Also, as a professional filmmaker, I can attest that everything described as reality or documentary is really just a series of scenes chosen by a producer, director, cameraman and editor. What they choose forms the basis of the "reality." Not only is there a camera crew showing up at these people's door, there is a guy with a boom microphone and a production assistant standing there, too. Scripted is probably going a bit too far - I doubt that the people are given an actual script, or that they would be able to perform from one. It's more role playing, where items and stories are discussed before filming and an approach is decided on. Without this cheat, it would be impossible to churn out the volume of shows necessary for each season. There's an easy answer if you don't like the show - turn off your TV. I would personally watch an hour of true reality as someone tried to rebuild a rare transmission or struggled to paint their engine correctly, but there is not anywhere near the interest from the general viewership to make that kind of show financially possible. It's the reason YouTube has so many long, horribly produced, but informative videos on their site.

That Packard looks nice!

Keiser, what brand is the pancake regulator? This looks like what I need for my DL. I assume you bypassed the fuel pump entirely. Do you know what pressure the pump puts out and what you're getting after the regulator?

Frank, do you remember where you got the new rubber and ends for the shock arms? I need the same for my 32 Dodge Brothers.

I know exactly where you're coming from on this issue. As I restore my 32 Dodge Brothers, I keep running into problems that require the decision - do I go with it or try to fix it. My transmission gear had a tooth missing and I had to decide whether to replace it or go with what had worked when I owned the car back in the sixties. I'm assuming it was chipped back when I owned it and drove it daily 1965 to 1967. It was put away in 1970 and not run again. I probably could have kept it the way it was, but that nagging worry at the back of your mind is really annoying, and I finally tore down the transmission and replaced it. Since yours is not a daily driver, I suspect that that your solution of leaving it as is will work out just fine. But I do know that nagging feeling and I sympathize, believe me!.

Yes, the two slots on top fit into the rotating mechanisms in the pictured windshield header. Do you have a problem with a missing upper corner on the windshield frame?

Looking great. Just me, but I would have given the inside of the backing plates a quick coat of paint. A buddy left his bare and got rust streaks along the bottom in just a few months. You're lucky, my brake cylinders would not clean up - the pits were too deep. I had to have them resleeved.

You may be correct. I'm pretty sure this one is off a 29 Model U. It's been in a box for 20 years.

Ouch! I hope you're wrong, you just can't seem to get a break with your motor.

I assume this is the part you're looking for. I pulled this out of a box of spares I still had for my long gone 29 Plymouth. It appears to be solid and crack free. There is a small blob of metal on the bottom that looks like slag from the casting process. it may be a repair, but i don't see anything down inside the part that would indicate it has ever been damaged. The gear inside appears to be rusty, but not horrible. I would remove the gear and shaft (small pin in shaft), plus the plug and check everything out. PM me if interested.

This is a common problem with this engine. The distributor base (or housing) is made of pot metal and most have cracked and fallen apart. Someone was casting these years ago, but I don't have a name or number. Perhaps another site member can help.

This is not a very interesting or exciting post, but I finally got my brake system sealed up and leak free. The leaks were in the banjo fittings, and annealling the copper crush washers was the solution. They were too hard to crush properly. I heated them cherry red, let them air cool and cleaned the soot off. Put them on and the leaks were gone. I'm convinced that the silicon brake fluid is thinner and more prone to leaking than the old Dot-3. Maybe just an erroneous perception on my part and certainly not based on scientific fact. I'm happy to say that the Eastwood brake flaring tool I purchased made 100 percent leak-free flares on all my cunifer brake lines. Another thrilling episode in my restoration. ?

Lockheed brakes were used on Chrysler products from the beginning. My 32 Dodge Brothers uses the Lockheed system, but with internal expanding brakes. I don't have any experience with external contracting brakes, but I'm sure others on the forum will chime in. You might want to post a few pictures so we can see exactly what system you have on your Triumphs.

It's not the short wheelbase Wayfarer, it's a standard Dodge sedan.

I drove my 32 Dodge Brothers sedan all through college starting in 1965. It was my daily driver and never let me down through vicious Syracuse, New York winters. It was 33 years old at the time, comparable to a 1985 model today, but as a prewar, early thirties car, it seemed much older than a "normal" old car. My Dad, his two older brothers and my uncle drove their 1923 Model T tourer around the entire coast of Michigan in 1935 - Upper Peninsula included. My Dad was fifteen at the time and did a lot of the driving. They bought the car for fifteen dollars and worked odd jobs on the trip to make money for gas and expenses. He remembers taking the car apart in my Grandma's driveway many times to work on various mechanical problems. It was painted with the usual stupid slogans - "Girls who smoke put butts here" and the like. Andy Hardy move over.

Where did you find them?

I doubt you'd ever see another. Looks like a fun, but ambitious project.

Here is one I found in Batavia, Illinois (near Chicago) that's on Craigslist. https://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/cto/5988480928.html 1941 Buick special sedanette 2door model 46s. Inline 8 spins free. Mostly complete barn find. Not running. Decent solid body with typical front floor rust from rubber mat and some rust in rockers as well as rearmost trunk floor. Doors are super solid! Nothing terrible or overwhelming. The rest of the car is as solid as it gets. Was going to hotrod it out and enjoy myself but recently became a daddy so it needs to go to a good home. What is pictured is what you get. No trades sorry

Looking very nice. Por-15 always flows out smoothly when I've used it. Great product.

You're kind of caught between a rock and a hard place with this car. It appears very nice in the photos, but the color is going to create a problem for most buyers. The purists, who frequent this site, will balk at the yellow and the twelve volt modification. They will have to decide if they want to spend the money to get the car back into original condition. The hot-rodders, over on the H.A.M.B site, will like the color, but balk at the wheels and motor and will have to decide if they want to spend the money to add juice brakes, new wheels and tires, box the frame and install a small block. In either case, it would be cheaper to buy a coupe that needed work for 5 or 6 grand and make it what you want. There may be a buyer out there who likes the yellow and doesn't care that much that it's not totally original, and, if so, you'll be in luck. As far as prices, I checked sold items on eBay and the price range for coupes in this condition, but with traditional paint jobs, ranged from $13,100 to $10,000. I think in a real world situation, the color is going to knock off several thousand for most buyers, but you may get lucky. The other problem everyone has to deal with is location. Most folks want to look at a car before they buy it. Too many of us have been burned by buying a car based solely on photographs. So, a potential buyer in Vermont is going to have to spend money to come and look at the car and then pay to have it shipped back home at at least a dollar a mile. Model A fords are plentiful and come up for sale all the time, so you are dealing with a buyer's market. As painful as it may seem, I'd say you'd be lucky to get ten or eleven grand for the car. Painful, because I'm sure you have more that that in it. (As most of us do.)