Taylormade

Thanks, unfortunately my 18B has a different set up. It's similar to the drawing, but with substantial differences.

Frank, Probably a silly question, but how much of that 32 Dodge is left? I'm still searching for a rear seat footrest and the two hinges for the sun visor for my 32. I bought the 32 bumpers and hubcaps from you a few years ago. Let me know if enough of the 32 remains to get parts off of it. Thanks!

I have a Klaxon 18B horn on my 1932 dodge DL and I;m trying to get it working. The inside mechanism is very clean, all the wires look good and there is no rust or corrosion. When I hook the horn up, it gives off a loud buzzing sound, much like a doorbell, but not the familiar "honk" I was expecting. From looking things over, I can see three adjustment points - the large nut the adjusts the tension on the sounding board or diaphragm, and two very small adjustment screws on the flapper mechanism. I can adjust the sound with the large diaphragm nut - too tight and no sound, too loose and it just kind of rattles. The smaller screws - actually threaded rods with locking nuts - seem to be a go/no go situation. Too tight and I get nothing, too loose and nothing. Right in the middle and I get the doorbell buzz. I have read that the rotor under the large diaphragm nut needs to be lubricated, but it's obvious that everything is rotating correctly and the magnets are working. Why am I getting a buzz rather than a honk?

Horns are sold.

Horns are sold.

The horns work great, very loud with a nice tone.

I tapped the hole I drilled in the cap to match the threads on the fitting, screwed the fitting in and secured it with a nut on the backside. Great minds think alike. I used the regulator and gauge on my air hose connection, otherwise they look identical.

As far as I know. I will check them tomorrow morning when I get out in the garage.

I have a very nice, never used or installed carburetor for a 53 or 54 Dodge Red Ram V8. It could use a bit of polish due to sitting on the shelf for fifteen years, but is great shape.. I also have a nice set of trumpet horns for early fifties 6 volt Mopars. Surface rust, but no dents or other problems. $50 for the carb and $25 for the horns, plus shipping. I can take the horns apart (off the bracket) for easier shipping. I'm in central Illinois. Thanks for looking. Quote Edit 1932 Dodge DL Sedan Reply to this topic...

I have a very nice, never used or installed carburetor for a 53 or 54 Dodge Red Ram V8. It could use a bit of polish due to sitting on the shelf for fifteen years, but is great shape.. I also have a nice set of trumpet horns for early fifties 6 volt Mopars. Surface rust, but no dents or other problems. $50 for the carb and $25 for the horns, plus shipping. I can take the horns apart (off the bracket) for easier shipping. I'm in central Illinois. Thanks for looking.

Sorry, getting old - I missed that.

Location?

In what can only be described as extraordinary (for me, at least), my Rube Goldberg apparatus actually worked and my engine is now pumping oil. This all started, as most of you know, when I wasn't getting any oil pumping out of the oil pressure gauge opening when I first cranked the engine, plugs out, to get oil circulating. It soon became obvious that the oil pump wasn't primed and I was going to have to figure out how to prime it. As stated in earlier threads, my oil pump shaft is geared to the cam and can not be spun with a drill to prime it. That left me with having to remove the oil pump, fill it with grease or heavy oil and put it back on. Although the pump is on the side of the engine and has fairly easy access, to actually remove it is not so easy. First, you have to remove the splash pan between the engine and the frame as the pump and shaft won't clear the pan coming out. To get the splash pan off, you have to remove the spring shackle and drop the spring. To compound the problem, the oil pump shaft also drives the distributor, so you have to get the pump back in timed correctly or the distributor timing will be off. You're probably beginning to see why I didn't want to take the pump out unless it was absolutely necessary. So, after some internet exploration, I built this little device out of Schedule 40 PVC pipe and ends. At the top is the inlet for the air hose, and on the bottom, the hose and valve that goes into the oil pressure gauge outlet. Here is the top with the air inlet to pressurize the device. The top unscrews so you can pour the oil in. I know PVC and air pressure don't mix, but since I was only going to pressurize to 30psi, I figured I was going to be fine. So, I set the device up and attached it to the engine, poured oil in, screwed the top on and attached the air hose. I then pressurized to 30psi with the valves on the hose closed. Nothing exploded, burst or leaked, so I continued on. Here is the set up - not very aesthetically pleasing with the duct tape, but it worked to hold the container upright. This pressurized the oil in the container to 30psi down to the valve in the hose to the engine. I used clear tubing so I could see the oil flow. It's rated to 125psi, so, again, I figured I was safe. Here is the hose connected to the threaded oil pressure gauge opening in the block. With everything pressurized in the tank, I opened the valve and oil at 30psi flowed into the oil galleys of the engine. While it was pressurized, I rotated the crank by hand to get oil into the crank passages. After about thirty seconds, I closed the valve and removed the hose from the block. Then I cranked the motor with the starter. Oil was coming out of the block, but I wanted to make sure it was actually being pumped out and not just draining from the passages. So I repeated the process. This time I cranked the motor with the hose still attached and fully pressurized. I got oil coming out of the block against the 30psi pressure, meaning the engine's oil pump was outdoing the 30psi from the tank. Success! Next step is to attach an oil pressure gauge, set the timing, adjust the carb and fire this sucker up! Thanks for all the help and advice from folks on the forum.

In what can only be described as extraordinary (for me, at least), my Rube Goldberg apparatus actually worked and my engine is now pumping oil. This all started, as most of you know, when I wasn't getting any oil pumping out of the oil pressure gauge opening when I first cranked the engine, plugs out, to get oil circulating. It soon became obvious that the oil pump wasn't primed and I was going to have to figure out how to prime it. As stated in earlier threads, my oil pump shaft is geared to the cam and can not be spun with a drill to prime it. That left me with having to remove the oil pump, fill it with grease or heavy oil and put it back on. Although the pump is on the side of the engine and has fairly easy access, to actually remove it is not so easy. First, you have to remove the splash pan between the engine and the frame as the pump and shaft won't clear the pan coming out. To get the splash pan off, you have to remove the spring shackle and drop the spring. To compound the problem, the oil pump shaft also drives the distributor, so you have to get the pump back in timed correctly or the distributor timing will be off. You're probably beginning to see why I didn't want to take the pump out unless it was absolutely necessary. So, after some internet exploration, I built this little device out of Schedule 40 PVC pipe and ends. At the top is the inlet for the air hose, and on the bottom, the hose and valve that goes into the oil pressure gauge outlet. Here is the top with the air inlet to pressurize the device. The top unscrews so you can pour the oil in. I know PVC and air pressure don't mix, but since I was only going to pressurize to 30psi, I figured I was going to be fine. So, I set the device up and attached it to the engine, poured oil in, screwed the top on and attached the air hose. I then pressurized to 30psi with the valves on the hose closed. Nothing exploded, burst or leaked, so I continued on. Here is the set up - not very aesthetically pleasing with the duct tape, but it worked to hold the container upright. This pressurized the oil in the container to 30psi down to the valve in the hose to the engine. I used clear tubing so I could see the oil flow. It's rated to 125psi, so, again, I figured I was safe. Here is the hose connected to the threaded oil pressure gauge opening in the block. With everything pressurized in the tank, I opened the valve and oil at 30psi flowed into the oil galleys of the engine. While it was pressurized, I rotated the crank by hand to get oil into the crank passages. After about thirty seconds, I closed the valve and removed the hose from the block. Then I cranked the motor with the starter. Oil was coming out of the block, but I wanted to make sure it was actually being pumped out and not just draining from the passages. So I repeated the process. This time I cranked the motor with the hose still attached and fully pressurized. I got oil coming out of the block against the 30psi pressure, meaning the engine's oil pump was outdoing the 30psi from the tank. Success! Next step is to attach an oil pressure gauge, set the timing, adjust the carb and fire this sucker up! Thanks for all the help and advice from folks on the forum.

I'm sure a good powdercoater can show you samples that would give you a cad-plated look. They would blast your rims and then powder coat them any color you pick. They have gloss and semi-gloss. The latter would look more authentic.

The pump will not shut off. Most folks put a regulator in the line past the pump to keep the pressure low or use a low pressure pump.

I sent them out to Jason Smith at Avanced Electrical Rebuilders. He did a great job. I figured they were beyond my expertise.

Injecting oil into the motor oil passages to attemp to prime my oil pump. The fun just never ends.

You are certainly not wasting my time. I'm always amazed at the feedback and advice I receive on this forum. Thank you all for joining in and trying to help.

As far as I know, the oil pump is geared to the camshaft and can't be rotated independently of the crank/camshaft assembly. You can see the setup in the illustration below. This makes it impossible to use your method of rotating the pump shaft to prime it. I'm going to try injecting oil into the system under pressure from the oil pressure gauge fitting. If that fails, I'll remove the pump and prime it off the engine.

Can't do it on this motor. The oil pump is geared to the camshaft, so no way to use a drill to prime the pump. I already have a DIY pressure oil injector made and am just waiting for the wife to get back with the last part I need to complete it. I'll post pictures and let you know how it goes.

My engine has full pressure lubrication, no splash lube on the rods. I plan to build the type of pressure pot you describe. We'll see how it works.

Is there any place on the Dodge six engine where you can tell if the oil passages are actually full? Some point where oil will appear if you're forcing oil into the gauge line, maybe in the lifter galley?

The engine was completely rebuilt, so the oil,pump should be in good shape - no missing teeth or gear problems. After several more attempts with no success, it's obvious I'm going to,have to pressure feed the oil lines from the oil gauge feed connection as you folks have suggested. I'm amazed a turkey baster can force the oil in with sufficient force. I was going to make a pressurized tank out of industrial grade PVC, fill it with oil, then pressurize to 40 pounds and inject the oil under pressure into the journals. I know, I know, PVC and air pressure don't mix, but at 40 pounds I should be okay.

I guess I'm going to have to try and pressure fill the oil passages with a pump. I tried to get oil flowing again with absolutely no results. I just can't risk continuing to turn the motor over and possibly damaging the internals. The assembly lube is only going to last for so long. Another very disappointing moment in the restoration as I was going to start the motor this weekend and videotape the process. Now it's back to the drawing board and more delays. I'll have to find a decent pump, hoses and fittings and see if it will work. It's beginning to look like another year without having my car on the road.