Taylormade

Good method, Jack. Between the movement of the rod and the mark on the flywheel, I think I'm in good shape. If there were no marks on the flywheel, I would certainly use your suggestion.

That's affirmative to all your comments. It mounts on the left (driver side) and the crank rotates clockwise from the front. IGN pointer should be on top, which I'm sure Phil will confirm when he gets a chance. And finding TDC with the rod on the piston places the flywheel mark dead on the D.C. pointer if it's on the bottom. I also noticed that when the number one piston is TDC, the hand crank handle points straight down.

Thanks, Gunsmoke, some good information. You,too, Spinny.

Thanks, Phil. Man, am I glad I have a friend with an original car!

Dumb question of the week. This plate is bolted over the hole in the bellhousing that allows you to see the TDC mark on the flywheel. I my infinite wisdom I forgot to document this when I took it off three years ago. So, which arrow goes on top, the TDC (DC) or the timing mark (IGN 10 degrees)? The position of the stamped letters indicate DC should be on top, but the position of the metal arrows seem to make more sense with the ING on top. Any experts out there that can help this confused old guy?

Dumb question of the week. This plate is bolted over the hole in the bellhousing that allows you to see the TDC mark on the flywheel. I my infinite wisdom I forgot to document this when I took it off three years ago. So, which arrow goes on top, the TDC (DC) or the timing mark (IGN 10 degrees)? The position of the stamped letters indicate DC should be on top, but the position of the metal arrows seem to make more sense with the ING on top. Any experts out there that can help this confused old guy?

Finding BDC is just as difficult as finding TDC. SInce the spark plug hole is over the valves and not the piston, the access port over number six piston is the only way to determine exact TDC. It was gratifying to find the mark on the flywheel lined up perfectly when I got the piston on TDC.

Probably a good idea, Rusty, but I didn't have a screwdriver with a shaft that was long enough and still small enough to fit in the access hole. The rod I used is plenty long enough to not come near falling in and is almost exactly the diameter of the access hole, so there is no sideways motion that might cause it to slide to the side and fall in. Right after I took the photo, I wrapped tape on the top of the rod just to make sure.

Everything I can find says one o'clock for the number one cylinder to fire. There is a detailed description of it on the P-15 D-24 web site and they say one o'clock for one and seven o'clock for six. My wiring diagram also shows it in the one o'clock position. If this isn't correct, my engine rebuilder did not index my oil pump correctly.

I got the plug out with vice grips. As I feared, they tore up the plug pretty badly, but it was already damaged, as the slot was in poor shape before I even touched it. It's still usable in a pinch, but I'll try and find a new one. This allowed me to put a small diameter rod into the opening. Obviously, the rod rests on the top of the piston and as you rotate the crank it's easy to find TDC. I'm glad this worked out. Before I was trying to guess at it based on the lifters going down. It turned out I was about ten degrees off doing it that way. Using the rod, the mark on the flywheel showed up (I knew it was on there!) and I can now see the ignition setting and the TDC setting. And I discovered I actually lucked out and got the distributor in correctly. At TDC the rotor is in the one o'clock position. So, adjust the valves, set the timing and I'm ready to fire her up for the first time.

I got the plug out with vice grips. As I feared, they tore up the plug pretty badly, but it was already damaged, as the slot was in poor shape before I even touched it. It's still usable in a pinch, but I'll try and find a new one. This allowed me to put a small diameter rod into the opening. Obviously, the rod rests on the top of the piston and as you rotate the crank it's easy to find TDC. I'm glad this worked out. Before I was trying to guess at it based on the lifters going down. It turned out I was about ten degrees off doing it that way. Using the rod, the mark on the flywheel showed up (I knew it was on there!) and I can now see the ignition setting and the TDC setting. And I discovered I actually lucked out and got the distributor in correctly. At TDC the rotor is in the one o'clock position. So, adjust the valves, set the timing and I'm ready to fire her up for the first time.

I think I'd only get bits down inside if I tried to drill out the plug. I guess I'm more worried about finding another plug, although they may be as easy to find as a trip to the auto parts store. Our local NAPA is an old time shop and they have drawers full of stuff that hasn't been seen since the forties. And they'll let you look around in the back room all you want.

Getting ready to start the motor on my 1932 Dodge Brothers DL six and have run into a bit of a problem. I'm trying to find TDC to get the timing set up correctly. I know the best and obvious way is to remove the plug over number six cylinder and put a rod into the hole and watch until it reaches the top of travel. At this point it's TDC on one and six, then I check the tappets and if both are down on one, one is ready to fire. The problem is, I can't get the damn plug out. It's made of brass and seems to have fused to the cylinder head. It has a screwdriver slot cut into the top, but any attempt to turn it out with the correct size flathead screwdriver just chews up the brass. Naturally, I have the engine nicely painted and don't really want to burn the finish off by heating the area up. It's a fine thread plug and there seems to be enough sticking out of the cylinder head to get a pair of vice grips on it and try to turn it, but I'm sure it would totally tear up the plug. Are they still available or am I going to get myself in deeper by destroying it? Any other methods of finding TDC accurately? I can turn the engine with the crank and watch the tappets until they are both down on number one, but there is a lot of slack and I don't think I can get that accurate a reading. Same with putting a finger over the open spark plug hole to feel for compression. I swear there were timing marks on the flywheel when I was putting things together, but I can't see a thing through the timing port hole on the bellhousing when I think I'm close to TDC. I have the sinking feeling I'm going to have to get that threaded plug out of the head to make this work.

Getting ready to start the motor on my 1932 Dodge Brothers DL six and have run into a bit of a problem. I'm trying to find TDC to get the timing set up correctly. I know the best and obvious way is to remove the plug over number six cylinder and put a rod into the hole and watch until it reaches the top of travel. At this point it's TDC on one and six, then I check the tappets and if both are down on one, one is ready to fire. The problem is, I can't get the damn plug out. It's made of brass and seems to have fused to the cylinder head. It has a screwdriver slot cut into the top, but any attempt to turn it out with the correct size flathead screwdriver just chews up the brass. Naturally, I have the engine nicely painted and don't really want to burn the finish off by heating the area up. It's a fine thread plug and there seems to be enough sticking out of the cylinder head to get a pair of vice grips on it and try to turn it, but I'm sure it would totally tear up the plug. Are they still available or am I going to get myself in deeper by destroying it? Any other methods of finding TDC accurately? I can turn the engine with the crank and watch the tappets until they are both down on number one, but there is a lot of slack and I don't think I can get that accurate a reading. Same with putting a finger over the open spark plug hole to feel for compression. I swear there were timing marks on the flywheel when I was putting things together, but I can't see a thing through the timing port hole on the bellhousing when I think I'm close to TDC. I have the sinking feeling I'm going to have to get that threaded plug out of the head to make this work.

I know I keep saying this, but hopefully soon. I'm in the middle of writing a script and it's really been difficult to get any time to work on the car. I need to check valve clearance and get the oil pressure gauge hooked up and I should be ready to go. Just remember, the road to hell is paved with good intentions.

Yes, it appears someone is simply taking photos off the site and making "videos" out of them. I'm not sure why someone would take the time and effort to do this for a car they neither owned nor restored. It's not that your excellent photos aren't worth displaying, but I'm not sure what the motivation would be for a perfect stranger to use them in this way. Hopefully they aren't claiming to be the party responsible for the restoration.

Changing to 12 volts is a waste of time and money. These cars were designed to run on a 6 volt system and do it very nicely. If you have a good 6 volt battery with good cranking power, and - most importantly - the correct large gauge battery wires, the motor will start and run with no problems. Just make sure the contacts are clean and you have a good ground.

Thanks, FreFord.

Go to the Vintage Power Wagons site. They have reconditioned manifold assemblies listed on page 15 of their on line catalog for $375. I bought one for my 48 Plymouth and had a very good experience with both quality and service. They have two listed, one for for 46 to 50 and the other for 51 through 60. They also have gasket sets.

Summit Racing has them listed for ten bucks for a package of four.

I had a nice 48 P-15 for several years. My vent frame is, unfortunately off a sedan. I should have remembered that as I went through the same situation when I was looking for a spare.

I think I have a vent frame. I'll check out in the garage tomorrow.

Sorry to hear of your loss. Thoughts and prayers are with you.

I guess I didn't read the original post very carefully. You are obviously correct. I have heard the knee action shocks are difficult to work on, but I have no experience with them. Knobless did PM me and he's working on a 34 Dodge which I believe still used Delco-Lovejoy lever action shocks, so maybe my post helped him out after all.

I haven't gotten around to part four yet.