Taylormade

I'm trying to get her going before we leave for Hershey. Things keep getting in the way - the shaft on the starter pedal to name one. And I just got a call from my sheet metal guy that my engine splash pans are done, so it's an all day trip to go and pick them up. I'm as anxious as you are!

Just got my battery cables in from Rhode Island Wiring and they fit great. I also rebuilt the starter pedal mechanism. I had to find a new pedal as my old one was badly bent. This led to having to make a new shaft as the old shaft was badly rusted and cracked at one end. Everything is finally done, painted and mounted.

Looks great!

Thanks for all the help everyone. I don't think Ford fits the bill for me, the buggy springs don't have the look I'm going for. I'd also prefer a six cylinder if possible. I found a 1930 DeSoto here in town, nice frame and motor, body pretty much gone, that looks like it may work, so you can probably quite looking for something for me. I can't tell you how much folks go out of their way to be of assistance on this forum. It's nice to know folks still care out there. I'll let you know how it works out.

That's what you get for making it look too good!

It's called camera projection. You basically build the shapes of the road and buildings in a 3D computer program and then "project" the images of the buildings onto the shapes. This creates a three dimensional world you can move around in. It's a labor intensive process with a lot of Photoshop work involved.

Thanks.

Getting close!

I live close to you. Sent you a private message - click on the envelope symbol at the top of the forum. You need to be logged in on the site.

If the valve train has been completely removed, it seems like the camshaft should slide out the front with no problem. Does the book say how the rear plug controls end float? It seems like all you could do is drive the plug back in until it stops against a seating ridge. Unless there are shims in there, I don't see how it offers any adjustment. It appears to be a standard plug, but I've been fooled by things like this before. Have you tried to pull the camshaft out at all? If all is correct, I can't believe it would take much force to get it out. My 32 DL cam just pulled right out.

There are actually two "well known" wiring companies in Rhode Island, although I can't get the website of one to come up, so maybe they are out of business. Anyway, be sure you know which one is being discussed before you make comments or accusations. The Rhode Island company that I recently dealt with gave me extraordinary service when I had a problem. That doesn't mean they didn't give Restorer32 a bad time. If the harness was simply laid out on the office floor, I can't see how it could get dusty enough to cause any problem. I laid my harness out on my living room floor to check it. When it came to installing it, I laid out plastic sheet over most of the shop floor just to make sure things stayed clean. I do agree with Restorer32 that if he's purchased many, may harnesses from these folks and they treated him like this, he's got a legitimate complaint.

I found this neat old NOS oil filter on EBay. it's close to what was on the car originally. The graphics are really cool and I think it looks great on the car. It came with the band mount, but I had to scratch build a mount for the whole assembly to fit on the side of the motor. I'm not the world's greatest fabricator, but I think it came out looking okay. I'm making up the oil feed and drain lines today. I'm also installing the new wiring harness form Rhode Island Wiring. They do very nice work and all the colored braiding matches up with what what left of the original wiring harness. I also bought a water temperature gauge from Tractor Supply for twenty bucks. You can see the end attached to the brass fitting next to the oil filter. I'm going to try to graft the new capillary tube onto my old, original gauge. I'll document that when I make the attempt. .

I'm getting close to the initial start-up of the motor. Just need to finish getting the wiring in place. I discovered that neither of the battery cables were original or correct. I've been working with Rhode Island Wiring to get this sorted out. They had no original information on 32 DL cables, once again revealing the rarity of these cars. Using the Instruction Book diagrams and a little common sense, we think we have it figured out. These are great people to work with. They were most interested in getting it looking original and correct, and worked with me throughout the process. When I bought the car, it had a red battery cable running from the starter to the negative terminal and a braided wire positive ground strap form a transmission bolt to the positive battery terminal. I always knew the red cable was a replacement, but figured the braided strap was original equipment. As usual, I was wrong. Checking the Instruction Book diagram I could see the Positive ground was a wire and not a braided strap. It also ran a different route than the strap. This isn't a very good shot, but it shows the red cable and the braided strap. The red cable has been disconnected from the starter at this point. It runs through the slot between the two wood pieces and through a hole in the tool box to the battery. You can also see the braided ground strap following the same path. Here is the frame diagram from the Instruction Book. It's a little hard to see, but notice the different routing of the Positive ground cable. To help Rhode Island, I laid out the routes of the two cables with white rope. This is the way they are supposed to go. The Positive ground cable - I finally figured out what those two clips on the inside of the X-frame were! The Negative starter to battery cable. This is one long cable - 50 inches. I hope to have the cables sometime next week.

Hard to tell from just two pictures, but it looks like a nice car. The sedan body style and yellow paint work against it. Depending on your location and the amount of work needed to finish, I'd say between $8000 and $12,000 on a very good day. You can always put it on EBay and see what it brings.

Kent drove a Nash-Healy. Lois Lane drove a Nash convertible.

The H.A.M.B. site - caters to hot rod and customs.

Love it. Drive the heck out of it and enjoy every moment.

Jon was a tremendous help to me in my rebuild and supplied a vital part for me. A great guy to work with.

You can do it yourself with a bit of patience. Many threads on this site concerning BB-1 updrafts. I just rebuilt mine and plan to start the motor in a week or two - we'll see how well I did.

You're not going to be able to lift the front of the body without removing all the body bolts and disconnecting the steering column. Trying to force just the front of the body up could cause real damage to these old touring bodies - not much meat in the lower areas. That's the reason for the advice about door braces above. I also would not weld on a body with an interior. It's a real fire hazard.

How would Babbitt bearings be destroyed by anti-freeze? A blown head gasket and the anti-freeze getting into the oil? I drove my 32 Dodge for years with Babbitt bearings and anti-freeze with no problems.

Oh, wow. Sounds like what I have to do to get the transmission out of my 32 thanks to the Floating Power feature that makes it necessary to remove half the drivetrain to get to it. Sounds like unbolting the axle to move it back may be the only logical way. Be careful, the axle bands were the only frame part I broke when i took my car apart. Soak the bolts in penetrating oil and wire brush the visible threads before attempting to take them off. Luckily, I found a place that made me new ones, but it was a pain.

Do you have a CD backseat foot rest?

Ate you removing the eye bolts to get the rear axle and springs off as a unit, or for another reason?

I'm not sure about your car, but on mine, with the body on, I still have almost full access to the frame. My body has no floors other than the steel pan under the back seat cushion. My wood floors go back on after the body is attached. I still intend to run all the wires in the frame before the body goes on, which would leave me only the one section that comes off the main loom, runs up the firewall and through a hole into the area under the dash. I took a lot of photos of my frame and I was lucky that all the wiring clips were still attached. It's made it simple to run the wires - at least so far.