Lahti35

Every single car I have has some major hackery in one way or another. I think at this point in the hobby it just goes with the territory. You're spot on about spending money. Rare is the person who will correct the issue by spending the necessary funds to do it when they can get by with a cheap fix. I think it's just human nature to spend money where it's fun and skimp on things you have to do, lol. I've got the carb out of my '68 F250 for the same reason you have to find another carb, buggered and J-B welded fuel inlet. 25' Nash has the transmission removed because some dope didn't put a woodruff key back on the input shaft allowing the throwout bearing carrier to spin and eat itself. Earlier this summer It was the oil pump, screwed up so bad even a reputable name in the old car world couldn't fix it properly (a whole other discussion).

I got it on ebay through Grainger. It's nice stuff, try this link: 1/4" Thick felt

Spent an hour this AM on some odds & ends. Laid out a transmission shifter cover on some cork, the old gasket was paper and had ceased keeping oil in the transmission long ago... I ordered some 1/4" felt last week for my '26 model T gas tank, also put it to use in the Nash where the pedals and steering column comes up through the floorboards. I'm sure there was something there originally but it's not there now... Pretty big open holes around those pedals, no need for that. Both turned out great, the slits in the floor board felt will have to wait until I get the pedals back on the tranny for accuracy. I've got to pick up an O-ring to seal the reverse idler shaft from leaks, the rest of the transmission bits that breech the case can be sealed with anaerobic sealer. I'm looking forward to oil staying where it belongs for a change!

I'm wondering what material I should use for the friction material ring on the clutch brake. The throwout bearing carrier presses up against this when you need to halt rotation of the transmission input shaft (at a stop, going into reverse). The original has been chewed up by a disaster left by a previous mechanic (I use the term loosely🤪). It looks to be made of some molded material impregnated with brass wire. All the new composite material I find says it is not oil compatible. The throwout bearing on the Nash is lubed with oil and some would eventually find it's way out I'm sure and end up on the friction material. I've found woven material that says it is oil compatible but I would be concerned about the woven material fraying when cut? I may try some anyway.. I would like to find a composite that is oil resistant, does anyone know of some? The disc I'm wanting to replicate is 3 1/4" in diameter and 3/16" thick.

Still cleaning up parts... The throwout bearing was locked up, it had no purpose since the throwout bearing carrier was missing its key and spinning on the shaft. I figured it was toast but a dip in some solvent got it moving a bit so I left it in the can of thinner for a few days hoping it would come back to usable. I took it out tonight and it was moving well. A few blasts of carb cleaner in the I.D. seam blew out a bunch of schmutz and got it turning great. Some light oil after a final thorough cleaning yielded a perfectly serviceable bearing, good deal! After cleaning a bunch of bolts and washers I moved onto the input/output bearing housings. These castings are setup with shims for the bearings to set the clearance for each. The front housing had one shim, the rear housing had a shim or two... or nine! Thick ones, thin ones and everything in between, lol!

Looky what UPS dropped off today... So clean and everything, almost a shame to use it.

I don't take that lightly, especially coming form you. I've seen the great work you are capable of in your thread. Many thanks for the kind words!

I don't think many of the parts interchange, certainly not the engine. The advanced series has a different layout than the special. I wish they were the same, life would be easier! Thanks for the offer!

Glazed eyes, crawling, snapping of necks... sounds like a long distance marathon for the over imbibed...

Neat project! That heater is cool! Are you a member of the Nash club? They have a great library and are a friendly bunch, a great resource. They have been great help to me in refurbishing my '25 Nash with information. Looking forward to following along...

I had a bit of time this afternoon so I dug into the leaking rear camshaft cover. The cap was stuck to the bearing shell well, took a bit of force to pry it loose. More blue rtv and a paper gasket underneath. I believe I found the reason for the leak. One of the holes in the gasket was oblong and looks like it went right to the edge of the sealing surface, the rtv somewhat filled the void. The gasket looks home made and somewhat crude. The cover was somewhat rough on the backside so I sanded it flat, taking no chances on this. I'm 98% sure this was the major leak and not the rear main seal. The way the oil dripped from the bottom of the bellhousing did not indicate a major rear main leak upon close examination, one can hope! I reassembled the camshaft cover with anaerobic sealant on super clean surfaces so it should be good. I then installed the flywheel back onto the crank. Nice to see things going back together. Been busy cleaning transmission bits for painting here and there also. Degreasing followed by a soapy wash and set to dry by a fan. I've found some interesting previous repairs during the takedown. Several seals made of string wrapped tightly around shafts, the tractor mechanics have been busy! Ft Wayne called today and my clutch disc is done. Probably be back by the end of the week. Things are movin' along...

I've got a same era Nash I've been bringing back to life this last year. Check out my thread to get an idea of what this era Nash is like: Nash made a good car, the quality on mine is excellent. Only neglect and bad "mechanics" of the distant past have caused the issues I'm dealing with now. If you are over 6' I would say forget it, I'm right at 6' and basically have to install myself in to it. Once seated it's comfy with a nice couch type front seat and good leg room. If the '23 is a runner I would stop at $15k (these cars are declining in value) unless you don't care about recouping every penny. Good luck!

I had on of these a few years ago. Same symptoms, it ran ok until warm. Digging around found a bad crumbly intake manifold gasket. I replaced all the gaskets and it ran much better. If your gaskets are original to the engine or super old I recommend replacing them. While you have them off I would also take the manifold to a machine shop and have it decked flat to ensure no leaks. It's cheap and worth it.

My u-joint is not marked, nothing. Must be a NASH unit!

Nice looking Hupp! I looked at another a few years ago in MI. The car looked nice but when it started up you could hear the bottom end rumbling around with shot bearings. I would have liked to have brought it home but I didn't want to rebuild an engine. I've liked every Hupp I ever seen, neat cars.

I spent some time cleaning up the parking brake drum and mechanism today... The drum itself had some scoring and was coated in a fiendishly hard, gravel impregnated, dried grease. It really gave the braided wire wheel a run for it's money. It was so hard when I tried to go after it with a screwdriver it fooled me into thinking the interior was a rough casting for a bit. Once I had the concretion removed It was time to deal with the working surface, not pretty for sure! I was able to chuck it up in my lathe and face the surface. Some coarse sand paper on a backer followed by some finer paper gave good results. Paint followed and it was set aside for reassembly. After an afternoon siesta due to the heat and humidity I got back on it in the evening to do some heavy degreasing. The parking brake assembly wasn't as bad as the drum but it was right gunky too. After some preliminary cleaning to remove the worst of it I broke it down and did each piece. One of my favorite bits of restoration is peeling back the layers of time to expose casting marks. Things haven't been this clean since assembly at Kenosha. It's interesting to see that the machined surfaces themselves are somewhat rough and not finely finished, no need on these parts I guess. It adds some nifty character to the old girl. The linings themselves are OK, and will stay in place on the shoes. Since I was filthy and it was starting to get dark I jumped on the transmission case/bellhousing quick. The days are getting shorter, adding a bit of urgency to the project in the process. I do enjoy a nice late summer evening working in the garage though, wish it would stay like this! The trans case was leaking from every where it possibly could. The gaskets I pulled off were just thin paper with poorly prepared surfaces. I hit the mating surfaces with the braided wire wheel until they were spotless. Extra care will be taken upon reassembly to seal a good as humanly possible. Tomorrow will be final cleaning and painting of some of todays parts.

De-gunking continues... Some use of the wire wheel got the driveshaft cleaned up... Then painted... I also got my flywheel and pressure plate back from the shop next town over. It's an oddball pressure plate and he wasn't sure if he would be able to do it. He thought he might be able to grab it on the ID as long as it laid flat, which it did. Sitting on his table it was only .001" off.

I talked with Ft Wayne C&D Tuesday. They called me up because their book didn't have the friction material thickness listed for the Nash. They were hoping I had it, Noooooope! Me neither, lol. The tech was very knowledgeable and after some talking about the condition things were in we both agreed on a thickness that should work. Great folks to deal with. In other news I had discovered that the throwout sleeve is NOT supposed to rotate independent of the transmission input shaft, it's only supposed to slide forward and backward while LOCKED to the shaft via a large woodruff key... that someone forgot to put back in at some point. No wonder the clutch was making noises, with the ends of the sleeve wallowed out it would allow the pressure plate fingers to wander back and forth independently causing general chaos. The machine shop is still working on the new part, hopefully I can get it soon. They'll call when it's ready, I'm not prone to bugging craftsmen. In other other news I've been working on cleaning the brake equalizer assembly and driveshaft I removed prior to the trans removal. The u-joint at the transmission came off without much fuss. The whole driveline is caked in the typical petrified ancient grease/dirt combo. Took a few sessions to get it clean but I won in the end... The u-joint itself is a heavy duty affair, still tight after all these years. It's greased via a zerk that pumps down a hole in the splined end of the driveshaft into the u-joint housing. Once things were clean I painted the bits and installed the graphite rope into the spring loaded cover that allows for the movement while rotating. The 1/4" packing just pushes into a grove, easy stuff. Assembly is nothing complicated, the split retaining ring is also held in place via the same spring. Hand pressure is all that is required to assemble. The opening contains a set of 3 discs, 2 leather and one steel to act as a grease seal for the splined driveshaft.

I also had trouble with that pin on my Nash, I had opened up the hole a bit and had solved the issue when I broke the "ears" off reassembling. In my case a new reproduction lid solved the issue. If I hadn't broke an original it would have worked also. I think you're right on about the swelling, darn stuff acts like it's alive! PS if you want some new springs for your vacuum lid I have spares in stainless I'll donate. PM me if interested. The Buick is looking great!

I just rebuilt the marvel on my '25 Nash. I'm still running the original needle and seat myself though also as I couldn't get the old set out. My needle valve does shut off the fuel coming into the carb at the level I set which is 1/16 below the low speed nozzle. I did have an issue with my float catching on the front inside of the fuel bowl, the casting inside was rough and the nitro float was a tad too big. It caused a flooding issue on mine. I had to trim it a few times to get full free movement. I verified this by leaving the cover off and priming the vacuum tank so I could watch it all work with the car off in real time. Took me a few tries to get it to work to the fuel level mark I scribed inside the fuel bowl. I did replace the venturi on mine (it was somewhat cracked and the hole was oblong) and made sure to carefully adjust the jet to be centered in the hole. Mine was able to be installed upside down which is not correct, I had to pull it and flip it over, LOL. I set my low speed jet needle to the factory setting but then opened it a bit due to so so starting. The knob on mine had a nip that lined up with a post in the carb as the factory setting. My air valve knob is set to the factory spec. I went through my carb twice, and was very careful with it. Once I verified everything was functional (blocked off the hot air system also and made sure the tube inside the heat riser had no pinholes also) it would start. After fattening up the low speed jet some on attempt #2 it would start and idle perfectly. I know I'm a tiny little bit rich at the moment but I can't fine tune until the clutch is back in. I did take the car around a bit before I got into the clutch repair but it was running fine, plenty of power and no hiccups or backfiring. I also went through and set my ignition timing to factory settings, it was out a bit due to previous adjustments by owners past. This may have helped some but the marvel on my Nash was the main culprit. Broken choke, original soggy cork float, way low fuel level, crud in the passages, petrified gaskets, and air leaks galore... oh my!

Looking great! NASH automobiles look great in blue/black. I admire your tenacity, somedays it can feel more like work than a hobby when you're in a slump. Keep pulling through and you will get done riding the restoration roller coaster!

I just had some linings done at a place in Florida and the guy told me the same thing. I had intended to do the job myself with rivets but found the lining had been glued and riveted on in the past, no way were they coming off without a chisel and lots of mess. I sent them out and he was willing to do glue or rivets but told me glue would extend the life of the brakes so I went that way. The glue they used was for industrial cranes, he said not to worry about them coming loose, it's a non issue.

Man, what is it with stealing gas caps! This happens all to often. My Nash has a incorrect replacement and when I get a correct one I'm going to chain that sucker on there.

Is the back top corner supposed to have those lines under the vinyl or is that a restorer who didn't use enough padding there?

The upside of this trabant is you can buy it immediately, you don't have to pay and wait a year for your fellow comrades to build it!