Lahti35

Thanks Larry, The shop really is a treasure. They aren't afraid to work on oddball stuff and they do good work. I hope they stay around for a long while! Nice job on your wiring and muffler. You engine compartment looks sharp, I can tell a bunch of work went into it. I must have spent a few hours looking online for a correct muffler for the Nash with no luck. Everything would have had to have been modified in some way to make it work. I knew of Waldron but I did not know they made custom mufflers. For a reasonable price I'm able to get one scratch built exactly as I need, I just have to wait until December😛. I wish I could use my old wiring but it's corroded inside the insulation badly. Coupled with the number of splices it's sustained It's just itching to "let out the smoke" and we all know what happens then! Luckily all my clips are still in place and in good shape so there's a win.

I read up on this... The owner had 4 cars in the garage, 2 were on lifts. They got the two cars on the ground out but the two on top of the lifts stayed there. The water pushed them off the lifts and dumped them in the yard. Hoping all our affected forum members are safe and sound!

I got the call! I also did some digging around the exhaust system and the taillight wiring harness. The muffler is the incorrect size at 5" in diameter where the original muffler strap was clearly made for a 6" diameter unit. The other issue is that the inlet is 2 1/4" ID and the pipe itself is 2" OD. Looks like some muffler shop jammed some spacers in there to make up the difference and called it good... except it has a fairly good leak going at the bottom judging by the soot. I've placed an order with Waldron Exhaust for a new correct muffler, 10-12 weeks to ship... ouch! These lead times are killing me but that's the game these days more often than not it seems. I pulled out 25' of nasty taillight wiring last night. Gross stuff, unfortunately I have not been able to source any new armored 14ga wire. Brillman, YnZ, and Rhode Island are out of stock or no longer produce it. I haven't given up yet but I may have to use regular wire and loom instead... I'm pulling the taillight assembly and doing a resto on it. It's poorly painted, bent, and the connectors are corroded badly. It's just poorly done and at this point it's easier to just take it down and start over. I'll be converting the bottom light to a dual filament bulb. The bottom lamp will be on normally, then both top and bottom will light with the brake.

I think that snake is confused about that cord.... Did you play some Berry White for the poor guy at least?

I really like these early Pontiacs. I missed out on a nice survivor two years ago that sold in the 12-14K range. I'd be in at $8k on this one if it goes down the road well, holding back $5k for sorting/rebuilding/tires.

Well deserved! Thanks for bringing this to our attention. Good job Ramair!👍

I really dig that, would be a great daily driver. Lots of fun!

I used the same treatment on my '26 T tank and it came out nice. I was beyond obsessive about following the directions and it worked with no issues. Prep is everything for these products. My only issue was I got some on the filler neck threads and had to spend an hour picking it out so the cap would screw on.

It's model specific to the Advanced Six series I think but they used that pump for several years from what I can tell, up to '29.

Thanks for the input guys. I have a lead I'm working with out west who has several 20's Nash cars and parts. He's looking through the stash for a pump after I sent him some pics. I know he has at least one pump I could use, I can see it in a pic he posted. I hope it works out otherwise it will be plan B or C or...

So I've been watching videos of the Old Car Festival at greenfield village from this year and past. I've been to GFV and the Henry Ford but never to the OCF. Watching videos of the event show me how much I have been missing, sniff sniff. I've decided to set a goal to drive the Nash from home to the OCF in '23 ("if they'll 'ave me" as our British cousins say). I'm a bit over 100 miles away so no crazy road trip here but far enough away to make it a wee bit daring, a bit over a mile for every year the car has been around. This gives me 11 months (among other projects) to get her ship shape. Nothing would please me more than to successfully roll into the parking lot after a 3 hour tour. The gauntlet has been thrown!

Kind words Ed, thank you. I just try to do the best I can in my little wood shack. I've enjoyed your threads for some time, interesting stuff and I love your humor. The "three humbs up"! Yowza, you made my morning😁

Probably past time, things have been going well! I love how all these issues lurk under stuff until the lights get turned on lol. Might need to import some garlic and a cross or two just to be safe. I think I'll be ok with the cooling passages inside the block, no sludge or gunk in the radiator or inlet outlets to indicate issues. Luckily my shell is in sound condition, though I wonder if that is the cause of my bent filler neck. It was a tight fit in the opening and somewhat off center. I'll have to put it back in the shell now that I have straightened it for a test fit. Less is more so I'm not touching anything that's not broken.... yet, lol. I hope my radiator turns out as nice as yours! I haven't seen any cooling issues with the Nash yet just the degraded water necks and radiator issues.

Looking for a 1925 Nash water pump with a good outlet casting that's not rusted out. I'll even go for just a cover if you have one. Thanks! Scammers don't bother, I can smell you a mile away with my nose plugs in.

Looking for a 1925 Nash water pump with a good outlet casting that's not rusted out. I'll even go for just a cover if you have one. Thanks! Scammers don't bother, I can smell you a mile away with nose plugs in.

I also set about replacing the gear oil in the rear end this weekend... Pulling the cover was uneventful and the gear lube in there was fairly recent. It had good color and a "low" odor, definitely not the typical rancid funk of a well used and aged product. Things looked good inside, no metal chunks and a good wear pattern. However as with the rest of the car, laziness had struck here also. The cover gasket looked to have been used over again and the flanges/bolt holes were bent or pulled in from over tightening. Speaking of overtightening... What's this! Somebody beheaded a bolt at some point. I tried to use a punch and rotate it counter clockwise but it was a no go. Out came the welder to attach a washer and nut. Laying under a car and trying to weld a small nut over a broken stud where you can't reach it laying down, and you can't sit up, and you can't see the target makes for an interesting weld job, lol. I won in the end, threaded hole ready to go in spite of the shameful welding. I couldn't find an old bolt in my stash so I lathe'd the modern marks off a new grade 3 bolt and stripped the zinc coating in weak acid as a replacement. After I cleaned up the mating surfaces on the axle and the cover I took the bends out of the cover's flange and tapped the bolt holes flat. I cut a new gasket and put a thin layer of Ultra Black on each side, installed it and lightly tightened the bolts a bit to pull it in but not squish out all the sealer. I let it dry overnight and this AM I tightened the bolts down. Along with my new radiator hose and clamps I got some 600W lube for the rear end and tranny. UPS did a nice job of bashing the box around making the bottles leak some. I had a mess going before I even tried to fill the axle. Like my grandfather use to say: "First thing you do when you work on a car is pour some oil on the ground and roll around in it some, then you can go to work". Filling the axle was uneventful, slow and boring. It is 600W after all, lol!

Holy ventilation Batman! What is going on here now... The plan for this weekend was to replace the radiator hoses and clamps because they are old, gnarly and not matching. The original clamps as seen in the owners manual look like the typical GM split type. The current hoses had some Ideal type adjustable units throughout. Once I drained the coolant to change it I cut the hoses off and found a cute repair job on the water pump neck... I'll have to deal with this now while it's accessible, I've got feelers out for a new pump or at least the cover with the water neck. No idea what that impeller looks like underneath, it would be good to have a spare. I had planned to pull the radiator shell for polishing but found I couldn't remove it without the radiator coming out too. The neck on the radiator was bent forward causing the motometer to lean towards the front some, that turned out to be an easy fix. Some tapping around the neck on the top tank straightened it no problem. Then I got to looking at the radiator close and ruined my afternoon. It appears to be the original round tube radiator that has had some repair work in the past and some current issues. There is some damp under the top left tank area and some crusty growth around the old pinched and soldered tube on the right. I've got a big decision here, run as is or send it to the brassworks for a $$$$$ recore with a 18-24 week wait. Winter is coming so now would be the time. I want a reliable car, not worries about a leaking system. I hate to walk out of the garage with a bee in my bonnet so I spent some time polishing the radiator shell (somebody did a so so job of re-plating it back in the day, not the best prep job with some pitting not filled). It turned out well, solid driver quality. I also polished the motometer assembly, the base had a bit of rash but it did shine up pretty good. You can see the before and after on the dog bone, left side is pre-polish and right is after.

Can't beat that! Sounds good, looks good!

USPS delivered my rivets today😀 I had an hour so I got to work and installed the friction ring on the now painted casting. A few nights ago I cut some new leather washers for the U-joints where the splined driveshaft goes. They sit under a sheet metal retainer of the same shape. The front U-joint had both washers but they were pretty loose. The rear U-joint was missing its leather washers. I used some heavy leather and a sharp hobby knife to cut them out, no problems. I also ordered some goodies for under the hood. New hose clamps, radiator hose and a fan belt to replace the ancient ones currently in service. I have some 600W oil on the way for the transmission and rear end also.

Neat car, I look forward to the rejuvenation! Give Angel a scratch on the neck for me... We've had greyounds for a long time, they are a treasure. My wife and I just love them, we get ours from a rescue group in southwest MI.

I was hoping to have the clutch brake done today but USPS has lost my rivets for the time being... In the mean time I did get the casting dressed and the friction material cut. This nasty thing was still working through all the abuse that had been heaped upon it by the out of control throwout bearing carrier. I had cleaned the casting some time ago but noticed today that there was quite a ridge on the face where the friction material goes that wouldn't let it sit flat. I was able to file it flat and increase the contact area substantially. I didn't go crazy, just enough to smooth things out. For the friction material I had a choice. I could use oil resistant woven stuff or a composite material not rated for oil. I do have concerns about oil contamination from the throwout bearing but I opted to go with the composite. I was concerned the woven material might fray and the original looked like a sort of brass impregnated composite anyway. I found a person selling composite discs very close to my requirements. All I had to do was put a hole in the middle and countersink the holes for the rivets when they get here...

Finally got a call from the machine shop... They got the pistons in but recommended I get new wrist pin bushings too, there was only one catch as he couldn't get any except from one place for $20 each! Seems they've disappeared except for some dubious made in china ones on Ebay. I told him I'd dig some up and get them over to him, took all the google foo I could muster but I found some Cevite/Mahle ones for a reasonable price and dropped them off so he can continue on... Sadly it looks like no truck fun this year, things are just moving too slowly when I have to outsource anything. In the mean time I had to dig up another carb body because I thought I could fix the fuel inlet threads originally but that isn't so. After peeling off the JB weld and running a tap in there they still look horrible. Not worth the risk of leaking fuel so I google foo'd some more and found a correct core carb with the required manual choke setup (not easy to find). After disassembly and cleaning in Berryman Chem Dip (it cleaned up nice, great stuff), I put brass bushings in for the throttle body shaft. From there it was just a matter of carefully moving all the parts from the old carb body onto the new one... All set and ready to go! I just need to get a brass fitting for the fuel inlet so it doesn't get worn out again and I have to go through this all over.

That's what I wondered, I kinda figured there might be something there. I can totally understand keeping it original, a man after my own heart!

I'm sorry to hear that Terry, I know the pain well. Sounds like a repeat of my fun. Looking at your replacement lid and your original lid I wonder if it would be possible to sand off the raised lettering and just transfer your brass tag over to that? Maybe it would work then? Or is there something on the backside cast into the original lid for those two brass screws to avoid opening a hole into the chamber and creating a potential vacuum leak?

How cool is that! I had no idea they were using river boats in 1918. I watched a show on the Sultana disaster once and they talked about how the life expectancy of river boats was very short due to construction techniques and lack of maintenance. I wonder when the ones in the picture were built?