Lahti35

I would repair the mechanical pump, they're not complicated. Unless your fuel lines and tank are clean and your carb is in good working order an electric pump most likely won't help the car.

Looking forward to following along as you restore, I like this car!

Interesting, thanks for the info. Myself I have been searching for a few screwdrivers to fill out my '25 Nash kit. After seeing this type in other kits I think I'll snag me some.

Interesting screwdrivers. I see those listed for sale these days as "cabinet maker" tools when I find them for sale. They are original to the kit I assume? I'm not up on my screwdriver history much so I wonder if they were just all purpose screwdrivers back in the day but at some point they were tied in with the furniture trade.

We had a local guy sell the same model up here a few years ago. Green, nicely maintained interior in same shape as this car. Guy spent all summer trying to get 9k for it, ended up selling for just under 6k. Except for the color it was this car's twin.

Must be the "appraisal on file" getting in the way of a sale if he's holding tight to his price for this long...

I'm with you, that interior looks out of place in a dodge touring. These dodge touring cars all seem to suffer from optimistic sellers also...

Where to begin... This engine certainly has been a drama... First machine shop had it for 4 months and extended their initial time estimate by another 4 months once the first 4 had elapsed. I pulled it out of there and sat on it until spring when I took it to shop #2, where it sat all summer until they started working on it again in mid September. Between then and now there was a host of parts availability issues due to the supply line situation that had to be overcome. I got it back last week. The block was bored and decked, rods were sized and the shop provided a crank they had for turning the 360 into a 390. I laid the stuff out for measuring yesterday and all went well until I got to the crank. When setting the crank in the bearings it refused to turn even oiled up. I put the caps on and torqued them down correctly and it would barely turn, way to tight. I knew something was up so I popped the caps off and find some of the bearings are marked up big time. Not a happy camper. On top of that I found some pitting on the crank. I know a little is ok but for the money I shelled out that crank should be pit free. It may not be detrimental to the engine but it bugs the heck out of me. Close enough for government work doesn't cut it around here. I took the crank and bearings back to the machinist this evening. I had told him this AM I would like to return the crank and bearings for a refund but he asked for a chance to make it right repeatedly so I gave him a chance, maybe foolish on my part... Time will tell. His work on the bores was good, no issues there. I had initially requested the block be align bored when I first dropped it off, so far he has resisted doing this but I think I am correct in my initial assumption that the block does need this. The wear pattern on the original bearings support my theory, it was either that or a bent crank. Since this is a different crank with the same offending bearing damage on new bearings it's got to be the mains bore. Some days you just want to light it all on fire and roll it down a hill.

I must say it has not been a great few weeks in the garage! I got my new oilite pilot bearing... Looks nice compared to the old one on the left, however it does not fit. Like a dummy I made a mistake measuring and I achieved a perfect sliding fit, not the interference fit I was aiming for. This was an expensive mistake on my part, without the compression from a slightly oversize OD the ID is also too large. Nothing to do but try again. On a happier note I finally got the Boyce face for my moto meter. If the audience recalls when I bought the moto meter it came with a Paige face. I spent some time searching for a NASH face and came close but no luck. I found one but it was the wrong size after I talked with the seller some, turns out they had listed the size wrong. Anyway I found a generic Boyce unit and ordered that, which the post office lost for a week. It finally arrived today and a few minutes work saw it put together and ready for service. I look forward to it sitting back on the radiator, straight and not bent forward.

He even made it into a Spike Jones song back in the day. The record goes: "Benny's old Maxwell chugging down the road..."

Sound advice, as a teenager I was gifted an old car by my grandfather and I felt like I had inherited the best treasure on the planet. Fast forward to now and my wife and I have no kids. I always have my eyes out for interested family/acquaintances, should there be none the wife is under standing orders to auction any cars in our possession at my passing unless she chooses to keep them. It's her choice, guilt free. One persons joy is another's burden.

Dollars to donuts.

Uphill both ways!

Well now, time for something completely different! I like it and it's already got it's pet name on the block.

Those simulator hubcaps look way better, great choice!

That build would make any dad proud, great job!

I really like these star chiefs. We had one local a few years ago I inquired upon but was told it was in storage. No problem, can I come see it? "No it's in storage and we'll get it out in the spring for you to look at". Bugged him a few more times over the winter until he marked the ad "SOLD". Real-estate agent guy, hope his home buyers have better luck getting some viewings. I like the colors on this one. These instrument panels are one of my favorites.

What a twist! Usually it's the buyer that has to talk to his wife before he can make a decision😀

I gotta say, that engine compartment looks like it's missing a bunch of car stuff. It just looks too empty! Sharp car!

Interesting about the "soaking on the shelf" dealer storage... The original Nash bushing is just straight metal, definitely not oilite. It had pockets for grease but I know that's a no no with oilite as it will plug the pores and stop the oilite from doing it's thing. I may just set it in some oil for a day before install, couldn't hurt!

The new one is oilite. It's supposed to be lubricated with 30w oil and good for 1000 hours of use. I've never lubricated one of these, do you just dunk it in oil for awhile? I read some stuff about people putting them in a vacuum or filling the ID with oil and squeezing it between your fingers until it leaks out the OD.

I spent the AM making a new key for the input shat with the precision ground stock I got this week. It's a 3/16 wide key, took me some time to make it. Test fit, grind, repeat etc... I hardened it when done. I had to do some minor hand work to get everything to slide freely and not bind, round some sharp corners and file the keyway in the carrier a tad. I had to backtrack a bit. Someone put a seal in the input shaft housing in the past to control oil, I can dig that, seemed like a good idea. I pulled it out when cleaning the bearing/clutch brake retainer and had planned on getting a new one but couldn't find one that size. The old one was still in good shape so I decided to return it to it's old location. Unfortunately I hadn't though about this when I riveted the clutch brake on that was now in the way. Long story short I had to take it all apart and put it back together... It happens. The carrier/input/clutch brake assembly is now complete and functioning as intended. I'm waiting on the flywheel pilot bearing to arrive this coming week. I ordered a custom sized unit as The OD was weird and the ID was too far out to ream. The bearing is an oilite type and there was concern about wiping the lubrication passages shut drilling a smaller ID bearing to within reaming range of the input shaft pilot nub. Hopefully I can press it in and it's good to go, I accounted for a few thousands compression of the bearing so everybody cross your fingers. The original pilot bearing was brass or bronze with some grooving in the ID. I presume to hold some grease as there is no way to oil it. It did score the tip of the input shaft some but that was cleaned up with the rest of the input shaft while it was at the machine shop. Once the pilot bushing is all sent the clutch and transmission can go back in.

Amazing how some parts last and others of the same vintage go to the grave much earlier... The outlets on my radiator are in exceptional condition, 6" down the hose to the block and it's rusted neck city, go figure!

You should be OK! In '59 Chevy went to "full pressure" oiling to the rocker arms and the overflow tube in your pic was crimped by the factory. Since you have a '59 head this would be correct.

Same here, when my '68 F250 rolls out of the garage this spring it will be everything I'll need. I watched some towing videos of those new lightnings and for the price I was severely underwhelmed. They can't do the work a truck should be able to with ease, they've got a long way to go before they can go head to head with a gas or diesel unit.