Lahti35

Just finished up my Guild Starfire V rework. I machined new brass bushings to replace the factory nylon junk along with making polished stainless steel replacement parts and reengineering the way the tremolo assembly fastens together. These newer model guild guitars are Metric so the standard aftermarket stuff available does not work. I commissioned a new custom bridge to match the fretboard radius and picked up a rosewood truss rod cover. These guitars are good out of the box but the manufacturer went with lower quality components in some areas to meet a price point, nothings that couldn't be remedied. A nice diversion from car stuff which is not going so well at the moment but will right itself soon! New rosewood truss rod cover.... Custom bridge by tru-arc... New machined stainless roller bar and brass bushings, reengineered to hide all the retaining fasteners. Machined stainless main string bar built to accept a new aftermarket string retainer...

Looks great! That's at least a 3 cocktail job, well earned!

https://www.yahoo.com/entertainment/jay-leno-3rd-degree-burns-garage-gas-fire-152303068.html Looks like it was his 1907 White and 3rd degree burns to his face. Wishing you well Mr. Leno!

Nice job!

I just saw that, hope he recovers quickly and without permanent damage. Hopefully "severe" isn't as bad as the media outlets are implying.

Nothing like a smiling Doberman to assist people from straying from the straight and narrow, a capitol idea!

I would say yes the joint is serviceable. Pull the cotter key out of the end and there should be a threaded part that unscrews out the back. There should be a cup and a spring inside to keep tension on the steering ball.

That cutaway transmission in the center looks pretty cool...

Reminds me of this for some reason...

That's a good start!

Looks like another Franklin hiding against the wall....

That sucker is blown up! I'll bet that scared the operator into some clean undies...

I'll have to dig it out this weekend, been ages since I've looked at it. I seem to recall a small maker mark of some sort on the backside.

I did a little digging and couldn't find much on 8 cylinders but I did find some on the same era 6 cylinder Hudson. There is some info on the oiling system in this PDF: http://hudsonterraplane.com/tech/1934/1934-37MechanicalProcedureManual.pdf Looks like two tubes feed the front and back of the engine and the rest is splash lube, this sounds like what you are describing.

Very interesting, I did not know they reproduced these. I have one at home with 3 pins on the back I had always assumed was original. Did all the repro badges have that screw back arrangement?

Beware that Hagerty may require you to have a "modern" vehicle for every adult in the house before they will insure your antique. Not an issue for the majority of the hobby but for us that drive something old as DD also (and have it insured with standard insurance) they won't insure your antique. I ran into this a few years ago while driving my '61 falcon as a DD and trying to insure an antique through Hagerty. Their game their rules, not my circus. I didn't buy the reason they gave me though. They said I would be tempted to drive my antique as a DD when my falcon DD broke down. If they only knew my falcon gave me fantastic service year round, much better than the modern Chevy Colorado it replaced. What really wrankled my shorts was that about the same time they promoted their "driving a Ford model A for a year" as a DD. Hagerty could drive an early 30's car as a DD and that was ok but my ride from the early 60's was verboten!

I was looking at those this afternoon and was wondering what they were for also...Luggage rack? Inquiring minds want to know!

$18,000 includes the mobster wife's fur coat in the back seat. "Paulie!!! I left my coat in the back of the car the boys took to Jersey last night," she said. "Fuhgeddaboudit... you got five more at home," he replied.

I heated it with a torch until red/orange then submerged it in some old oil. I ran a file across it and it skated without cutting. Not real scientific but it worked!

No prob! I'm actually going to be doing mine this weekend. I've got to find some X-rings (quad-rings) once I get the piston out. I couldn't really find a rebuild kit in stock save for one but they didn't list what the seals were made of. I'd assume EDPM or something compatible with brake fluid.

Yes, the piston can get stuck in there. I have one of these headache inducing units on my '68 F250. They can get junk in there and get stuck pretty good. The piston can move both ways but only comes out/goes in to the body one way. If you didn't clean it out when servicing the brakes that may be your issue. Here is some info on centering (which you have already attempted) and a nifty tool to keep it centered when bleeding. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/113549-centralizing-brake-pressure-differential-valve.html If it were my valve body I would take it out, disassemble, clean and reinstall with the locking "tool" to establish baseline functionality since trying to reset with the factory procedure hasn't worked. One could also just unscrew the contact switch and press the end to see if the switch itself is bad first.

I can't see myself doing either but I did happen to watch Jay Leno's garage last night and they featured a 1949 Mercury that the folks at ICON electrified. I was impressed with the craftsmanship and the effort that went into blending the electrical bits into the car. It's a neat video if you get a chance. On another note, I feel your pain about machine shop wait times. It's crazy how long it takes anymore to get work done, I'm at a year now trying to get the machine work completed for my '68 ford. Another layer of frustration to deal with it seems since the pandemic shutdowns put a wrench in the works.

Problem located! I found it when getting the block ready for it's return trip. Something at some point got in between the 3rd main bearing (thrust) and the block as it was torqued down. It deformed both sides of the seam and pushed some material outward into the bore causing the bearing to be pinched against the crank. I recall seeing a divot in the block when I did the initial take down but didn't look close at it really. I had planned on having the mains bored anyway so I wasn't concerned. The original bearings had a strange wear pattern with the worst being the 3rd main so I believe this was present at the factory. I'm 99.9% sure this engine was never opened up from what I found on takedown. I've parted ways with the machinist who had been working on it, we came to an agreement that worked for both of us. He did offer to bore the mains (I showed him a picture of issue) but I don't feel comfy taking the block back. I took it to a different shop for the line boring, no idea when it will come back. Until then it will sit, I need a break from all this stress. I'm now tasked with finding another crank as I returned the shop supplied one. I have a lead that will hopefully work out.

I almost want to give the seller a pat on the back and say "that a boy"! So many times we see stuff priced to the hilt and beyond, coupled with rude listing remarks when cars come up for sale. It's clear this seller wants to move the car. The listing is clear and concise, nice pictures and he's just dropping the price periodically until it's gone. Should be a textbook case study for sellers on how to move a car.

I am! I always do it myself, I don't trust shops to do it right. Lots of horror stories out there!