Lahti35

I got done with my chores early and the wife was still at an appointment so I set about lubing the generator after I noticed it squeak when rotating the fan a few days ago. It was nice of NASH to put it front and center for easy access. Two bolts and a nut holding the wire and it's off. I should back up a bit and say I oiled the oiling points and rotated it a bunch but the squeak did not go away. I figured I better take a peak inside and see if the oil was getting to the bearings. The rear bearing was ok, getting all the oil no problem, the felt was wet and weeping. The front was another story... No oil was making it to the bearing. I carefully pulled the cover and brush plate without disturbing their settings. The bearing was a bit gritty so I pressed it out of the housing and gave it a good cleaning along with it's felt seals. Turned out to be a good bearing, win! I pressed it back in and replaced the felt seals and backing washer, also giving it a few squirts of oil to soak the felts. MADE IN USA, I love it when things have that stamped on them. So the way the oiling for the front bearing works is you add some to the spring loaded ball filler at the front. From there it goes down a short hole in the casting and then drips down a trough into a gallery and finally onto a felt seal behind the front bearing felt seal and into the bearing. The back of the brush plate and the inside of the front cover sandwich together to create the pathway. You can see a faint outline on the back of the points plate where they meet up. I made sure to blow out the holes and clean the trough/gallery also. Reassembly started with replacing the original felt (still in good shape) on the back of the brush plate. I pre-oiled it as before with the other bearing felts. Once the points plate was screwed back into the inside of the cover it was a simple matter of fitting the cover itself. Pulling the brushes aside to get it to slide down over commutator went well without issue. I then cleaned the long screws and hardware that holds the body together and installed them. Just about then the dinner bell rang. It's no figure of speech, I installed a large schoolhouse bell just outside the back door so the wife can alert me to chow when she makes dinner. Now I really had a quandary, go eat or face the woman when I wasn't inside in 5 minutes. I threw caution into the wind and installed the generator like I was on a mission. Luckily Charles Nash knew I would be in a time crunch and made generator installation a breeze, thanks Charley! Back in went the two bolts and the nut for the wire, done! ... And the squeak was still there, $*@%! It must be a brush on the commutator because it's coming from the front where they are and I know the bearing is oiled and will get oil from now on. Actually everything inside the generator looks pretty good. No flaking insulation, no rust, working brush holders/springs. At some point I'll take the armature out and chuck it in my lathe to shave the commutator as it is a bit groovy. I'll keep an eye out for a set of brushes in the meantime. Then I hear it, the door slowly opens and my not so happy wife informs me she has started dinner without me. I make the necessary apologies and buy myself 10 more minutes to install the new fan belt. It was past time, what some people will do to save a buck! First new fan belt in decades, I'm too good to the old girl! Lights out, shut the door, and off to dinner!

I got my replacement drain cocks and put them on today. A small thing but I hate fighting old drain cocks. The rearmost one held coolant ok but was stiff. The front one on the underside of the water pump worked to drain coolant but would not stop leaking after turning the valve back. One shouldn't have to fight these things for the nominal cost of new ones. I also won the war on filling the rear end with 600W tonight. I don't have a pump so I just rigged up this funnel and filled it over and over while I was out in the garage working on stuff. It took nearly 4 quarts poured in over two weeks, LOL. I may have been able to find a harder way to do it but I didn't have my thinking cap on tight. I was thrilled to see it drip out the filler hole. I promptly screwed in the filler plug, packed up my sub chassis workstation and scrammed.

Its back! If I recall the engine compartment is a bit grungy and doesn't allude to a well maintained car. They have come down on the price though I think, heading in the right direction!

It's kind of a greenish yellow. I'm not sure what the actual name is. It's a nice shade of baby vomit😁

Degreasing and engine on my '25 Nash... Much cleaner and tidy now!

Weather is nice here for a few days so I decided to back the Nash out and degrease the engine. The back and front of the engine were pretty gunky from the old leaking valve cover gasket, nearly black with grime. I used some straight dish soap on a wet toothbrush and rubbed it into the casting then let it sit for 10 minutes. After sitting I agitated it again and let it sit longer after which it started coming off well. There are still some nooks and crannies to get but it's 90% there. A clean engine is a happy engine!

Thank you for the kind words! I didn't want to dive into the engine so soon but them's the breaks. I was hoping to get a year or two with just light mechanical repair under the hood but when I found what I found AND it was already out of the truck... The payoff will be many years of good service so I'm not bummed about it, I just wish the machine shops were faster. I've had this engine out trying to get machined for a year now, it's at shop #2 after I took it back from shop #1 due to inaction. It's just getting so hard to get work done these days. I knew I would be rebuilding the engine on this truck while buying it at some near point so it wasn't a surprise. The good news is that once the engine is rebuilt I should be able to pop it in and go, 95% of everything else has been restored to working order at this point on the truck. I plan to build a test stand and break the engine in outside the truck so I can deal with any hiccups more easily. Looking forward to firing up the 360 turned 390 for the first time this winter! I'll also be curious to do some mpg testing in the spring as I'm building it for fuel economy. Well, as much fuel economy as a 60's 3/4 ton truck shaped brick can have, lol!

I was watching a video on youtube a few days ago and saw the same thing... As the FONZ would say: "Step into my office, Eyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy"!

I pulled the input shaft bushing out of the flywheel in preparation for sizing a new one. I had watched a few videos about using a bolt/nut/screwdriver method but I couldn't get it to work. Then I got smart and made myself a toothed slide hammer to grab the inside lip and tap it out, that failed also. "Sometimes the old ways are best" so I just did the grease method and got it. Had to use a big hammer though, that sucker was in there good!

I set to work this AM finishing off the work on the throw out carrier. These grooves were ground in originally by hand by the looks of it. I laid some tape around the circumference as a stop point and marker'd the lines to follow using the original as a guide. I was nervous! It went well though, they turned out good. Once the oil groves were were done I put the bearing in place and screwed on the retainer nut to clock the hole for drilling in the carrier. I started with a drill bit that just fit the hole in the retaining nut and made a dimple in the carrier threads to act as a "center punch". Once I had that I used a smaller bit the size of the retaining ring to drill the hole. Fit like a glove. I also sanded the retaining nut flat by hand to remove some scoring and even out the face for maximum effect. Once the carrier was complete after some final hand finishing I installed and oiled the bearings, then assembled it. Cleaning and painting the transmission case also got done today.

I got a call from the auto machine shop late last week, things are moving again and I anticipate my parts to be back this month. The weather was nice this weekend so I did some outside stuff that wouldn't be much fun in the coming cold. Cleaned loads of rust, grease and paint off the intake manifold. ...As well as the transmission cross member, which also got painted.

Thanks Larry, The shop really is a treasure. They aren't afraid to work on oddball stuff and they do good work. I hope they stay around for a long while! Nice job on your wiring and muffler. You engine compartment looks sharp, I can tell a bunch of work went into it. I must have spent a few hours looking online for a correct muffler for the Nash with no luck. Everything would have had to have been modified in some way to make it work. I knew of Waldron but I did not know they made custom mufflers. For a reasonable price I'm able to get one scratch built exactly as I need, I just have to wait until December😛. I wish I could use my old wiring but it's corroded inside the insulation badly. Coupled with the number of splices it's sustained It's just itching to "let out the smoke" and we all know what happens then! Luckily all my clips are still in place and in good shape so there's a win.

I read up on this... The owner had 4 cars in the garage, 2 were on lifts. They got the two cars on the ground out but the two on top of the lifts stayed there. The water pushed them off the lifts and dumped them in the yard. Hoping all our affected forum members are safe and sound!

I got the call! I also did some digging around the exhaust system and the taillight wiring harness. The muffler is the incorrect size at 5" in diameter where the original muffler strap was clearly made for a 6" diameter unit. The other issue is that the inlet is 2 1/4" ID and the pipe itself is 2" OD. Looks like some muffler shop jammed some spacers in there to make up the difference and called it good... except it has a fairly good leak going at the bottom judging by the soot. I've placed an order with Waldron Exhaust for a new correct muffler, 10-12 weeks to ship... ouch! These lead times are killing me but that's the game these days more often than not it seems. I pulled out 25' of nasty taillight wiring last night. Gross stuff, unfortunately I have not been able to source any new armored 14ga wire. Brillman, YnZ, and Rhode Island are out of stock or no longer produce it. I haven't given up yet but I may have to use regular wire and loom instead... I'm pulling the taillight assembly and doing a resto on it. It's poorly painted, bent, and the connectors are corroded badly. It's just poorly done and at this point it's easier to just take it down and start over. I'll be converting the bottom light to a dual filament bulb. The bottom lamp will be on normally, then both top and bottom will light with the brake.

I think that snake is confused about that cord.... Did you play some Berry White for the poor guy at least?

I really like these early Pontiacs. I missed out on a nice survivor two years ago that sold in the 12-14K range. I'd be in at $8k on this one if it goes down the road well, holding back $5k for sorting/rebuilding/tires.

Well deserved! Thanks for bringing this to our attention. Good job Ramair!👍

I really dig that, would be a great daily driver. Lots of fun!

I used the same treatment on my '26 T tank and it came out nice. I was beyond obsessive about following the directions and it worked with no issues. Prep is everything for these products. My only issue was I got some on the filler neck threads and had to spend an hour picking it out so the cap would screw on.

It's model specific to the Advanced Six series I think but they used that pump for several years from what I can tell, up to '29.

Thanks for the input guys. I have a lead I'm working with out west who has several 20's Nash cars and parts. He's looking through the stash for a pump after I sent him some pics. I know he has at least one pump I could use, I can see it in a pic he posted. I hope it works out otherwise it will be plan B or C or...

So I've been watching videos of the Old Car Festival at greenfield village from this year and past. I've been to GFV and the Henry Ford but never to the OCF. Watching videos of the event show me how much I have been missing, sniff sniff. I've decided to set a goal to drive the Nash from home to the OCF in '23 ("if they'll 'ave me" as our British cousins say). I'm a bit over 100 miles away so no crazy road trip here but far enough away to make it a wee bit daring, a bit over a mile for every year the car has been around. This gives me 11 months (among other projects) to get her ship shape. Nothing would please me more than to successfully roll into the parking lot after a 3 hour tour. The gauntlet has been thrown!

Kind words Ed, thank you. I just try to do the best I can in my little wood shack. I've enjoyed your threads for some time, interesting stuff and I love your humor. The "three humbs up"! Yowza, you made my morning😁

Probably past time, things have been going well! I love how all these issues lurk under stuff until the lights get turned on lol. Might need to import some garlic and a cross or two just to be safe. I think I'll be ok with the cooling passages inside the block, no sludge or gunk in the radiator or inlet outlets to indicate issues. Luckily my shell is in sound condition, though I wonder if that is the cause of my bent filler neck. It was a tight fit in the opening and somewhat off center. I'll have to put it back in the shell now that I have straightened it for a test fit. Less is more so I'm not touching anything that's not broken.... yet, lol. I hope my radiator turns out as nice as yours! I haven't seen any cooling issues with the Nash yet just the degraded water necks and radiator issues.

Looking for a 1925 Nash water pump with a good outlet casting that's not rusted out. I'll even go for just a cover if you have one. Thanks! Scammers don't bother, I can smell you a mile away with my nose plugs in.