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So the simple solution, is if there is any, make sure the shield between the rad and fan is there. Install an inline thermostat in the top rad hose. That will help to run the engine "hot" . Change the oil frequently. and drive longer distances more frequently. IS THERE A CHANCE THE CRANKNCASE VENTILATION TUBE IS DRAWING MOISTURE FROM OUTSIDE INTO THE CRANK CASE ? That engine has no oil pump, just splash feed.

You may put 4zero wire to the "BAT" terminal. It will make no difference. Just use a 12 gauge directly from the battery to the "BAT " terminal" Use a short jumper and attach one end to the battery and chuck the other end in the "F" terminal. That is to excite the field. (bypassing the key) That's all. Done. With engine running the charge should be 14.5 more or less. If the charge is above that , higher than 15 the battery is dead If no charge look for poor ground . Leaving the jumper perminantly from battery to "b" terminal will not cause any harm There is a diode behind the "BAT" terminal that prevents the flow back . Look at the back of the alternator, just below the bearing, there is an elongated slot. Push a cotter pin in hard, that will ground the field brush. The voltage will go up to 18 volts. DO NOT HOLD FOR LONG. That is how to test internal problems in alternators with built in regulators. Do the test with engine running of course.

Fuse in the harness usually affect the ignition. The engine will crank but there will be no ignition. fuse in the the harness? Look for an unusually "fat" lumpy wire about 2 inches long compared to the rest of the wire in the harness. To repair open the fat part and replace with an inline fuse. Newer alternators has built in regulators. There are new versions with only one wire.. A short check is hook a jumper from the battery direct to the B terminal and use a jumper directly from the F terminal to the battery and run the engine at about 1000 rpm. with engine running turn on all bells and whistle and the engine will slow down.. GOOD GROUND IS A MAJOR PROBLEM. ENGINE TO FRAMEAND FRAME TO BATTERY. Infrequent driving or not driving enough to allow the battery to charge is a major problem especially with generators. A WARM GROUND WIRE IS AN INDICATION OF POOR GROUND.

That broken piece can be repaired/replaced by silver soldering a piece of brass and shaping it with a file. I know most local chrome platers know some repairers who repairs pot metal and other small parts for chroming. Or if you are handy you may be able to do it your self. Use Borax with heat to clean parts .

A 1925 Chevrolet will have an updraft carburetor so the flooding will allow the gas to fall on the floor.

Do a battery load test.

As far as I can tell with certainty G M vehicles of that era does not use external regulator. It is all built in the alternator. If the car has no volt meter on dash, it has an idiot light. The alternator is usually a 15 S1, anything from 65 to 90 amps depends on energy use, all the bells and whistles. Turn the key on and the idiot comes on or the voltmeter needle leans to the left. Start the engine and the idiot light goes away. The terminal on the alternator is a block. Pull the block out, turn the key on and check the small wire that goes to the "I" That is the idiot light wire. Check the wire that says "f" That is the field wire and the fat wire, usually 12 gauge, is the battery wire. They should all have juice. Another check. remove all wire from the alternator and put a jumper wire from battery to the battery terminal on the on the alternator and a jumper from the battery and to the "f" terminal. Start the car and rev about 7 to 8 hundred RPM. A good alternator will charge about 14.5 volts - + . If you hook up an amp meter and rev at about 3000 RPM the output should read about 3/4 of the rated output of the alternator. A problem could be a worn out battery. If it is side mount terminal battery remove the terminals and clean. also sometimes the battery terminals develop a film of clear plastic like insulation which must be scraped, including wire terminals. A common problem with Delco Side mount batteries . Try removing the onboard battery cables and use a jumper battery using the onboard battery wires .CHECK AND CLEAN THE GROUNG WIRE . An interesting check is use a jumper and ground the alternator to a good body ground . If it is a ground problem the voltage will jump up. I would like to hear from you how you solved the problem.

If it is gasket glue it should it should be the same all around..

Bloo sorry I do not have any . Cheers.

Other than what you mention, the only way is condensation buildup by not running the engine hot enough to burn out the build up moisture in the oil or accindently pouring water in the engine instead of the radiator. To determine water in oil use a piece of sheet metal, pour a few drop of oil on the metal , use a torch and heat the tin underneath the oil. The water will pop,pop,pop under heat.

Under the head has a little projection that catches inside the bumper hole when tightening the nut ??? To clean the nut and bolt dunk in vaporust for 2 days. Comes out clean as a whistle. Some folks use kitchen vinegar. ??? The bumper bolts on my 1928 DB are similar except they are 6 inches long.

The rule of thumb "run your finger nail up the ridge. If the nail catches the ridge it needs an engine job. " Otherwise leave the engine alone. Valve jobs can be done with the block in the bay but you may have to stand on your head at times. Blloo is correct to say keep engine oil clean. Cheapest insurance. Run the engine as much as you can even a few hours a month until the engine gets hot.

FLYER15015, you are absolutely correct . I have given advice to bloggers and very few says thank you . Like " I tried so and so and/or this was the problem / I got it fixed by doing such and such" so that other bloggers will learn something. These threads are not for intertainment. It is for teaching and learning too, apart for information of service providers .

Was this car sold as a kit car by Sears Catalog in farm country area ?

This is what this forum is all about. Cheers.

There is a radiator rebuilder in the North East US. They advertise in the Antique magazine. If you like I will look it up and send you the address. Harry.

Well said.

The Teamsters. Hoffa is still missing and he was replaced by his son who is a lawyer but never worked a day in his life in the trenches.????

I know Cindy Meyers and restoration supplies sells the inserts for the larger ones. I am not sure about the smaller ones or who sell them. It would not cost you anything to phone Cindy and find out if the Australian reproduction company reproduce any. DO NOT FORGET THE AUSIES REPRODUCES ALMOST ANYTHING IF THEY HAVE THE SAMPLE REGARDLESS OF MAKE. EVEN MANIFOLDS. Find out first the size of your Motormeter before buying a replacement. Presently only the larger size insert is available ? Cut the threaded stem at the root, remove the glass faces . Hold the metal with a cloth in a drill press vize and drill by using a small drill and go up until you reach the required size

A 1932 Reo ? I would guess does not have a pressurise system. If the head is cracked the water would leak down into the combustion chamber and through the exhaust as white smoke. Driven enough the radiator will go empty, added to the plugged tubes will leave no water for the pump to suck therefor the crimped lower hose. Plug the lower hose and pour a gallon of vaporust and keep it there for a few days and see if that will help.

edinmass said it for me. It is simple chemistry. Hot water comes up and the cold water is drawn through from the lower hose when the thermostat is open. Whenever an engine is hot, open the rad cover and see the hot water is coming from the head into the rad. It is another way to check the thermostat is operating. IF THE RAD IS PLUGED THE HOT WATER IS LOCKED IN THE RAD . THE PUMP HAS NOTHING TO SUCK THERE BY CAUSING THE LOWER RAD HOSE TO COLAPSE. Clean the rad out. I do not think the hose is defective. This condition will cause the engine to overheat further aggravating the cracked head. It is possible that the thermostat is not opening to allow free flow from head through radiator through sucking from lower rad hose and back completing the cycle.. You may want to try removing the thermostat temporarily.

The emblem looks like a 29 chev.

Las Thursday night I was looking at the C B S news at 6.30 by Nora Odenell. At the end there is usually a feature news clip of some thing unusual by a Dr. La Pook. This one was about a young couple with a toddler who is deaf and was able to communicate only with her parents in American sign language. When the neighbours found out about her plight 10 people hired a sign language teacher to teach them sign language. Then the class increased by thirty and kept increasing. So she has an entire street to converse with. This happened in some New Jersey Suburb . This news has re enforced my faith in human beings after loosing it for a while .If there is a God it is reflected in the hearts of the residents of the neighbourhood. To those residents I say THANK YOU. GOD BLESS. MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL.

I cannot tell what year /model the Dodge Brothers is but I can tell what it is not. IT IS NOT A 1928 DODGE BROTHERS SENIOR.

Locomobile, Thank you for the correction. Harry