DFeeney

If you take the time to learn the basic distributor electrical circuit you can trouble shoot the system with a $10. test light. The first test would be to see if you have spark. Have a learned friend help you.

I also have had this problem. I would think the ring on the rim is hugging the grove and the gap is what it is. I've driven many miles with a gap as shown and always felt the ring was secure in the grove. I would add a piece of metal to the ring if you wanted to close up the gap.( For Appearance) If done right I don't think it would cause a problem with the temper of the metal. Look at all the old time racers that reformed metal with heat.

A 37 has the long grill. In 38 they made it shorter. The 37 has a crank out windshield.

I am from "The Working Irish". I admire the high end cars in the Zenith award group and how perfect they are. However to compete in this category each piece is expertly done by experts in their field. The perfection to achieve this high level makes the expense far beyond the average car owner. It is a level I try to achieve in my work. I look forward to seeing this years winner.

You might check out a 1922 Studebaker Big Six

Try posting on the Oldsmobile page. Someone there will have spare parts

In my experience with old cars ,brake fluid does not evaporate . I have had several cars sitting for years without a noticeable drop of brake fluid level .. I suspect you have a leak, Wipe everything in the system down and watch it over time. Look for fitting leaks that pools on the frame and not the floor. Look at the inside edge of your tires for wheel cylinder leaks.

Hello Randy. I sent a E-mail yesterday saying PAYPAL has received your payment. Thank you, Do you have a vendor spot number for Hershey? Don Feeney

Hello, I am trying to contact forum member 37HD45 (Bob Swanson, Ridgefield Ct) about a purchase. His last date on the forum was June 7, He was a regular contributor. I am hoping his health is still good. Does anyone have any information? thanks, Don Feeney

Would a shorter arm and blade help?

Although you showed the case number it would help to identify the make as GM used different transmission's. I would post on the forum page of the make. " Jus Sayin"

Hello Nyal, I believe I have purchased parts from you in the past. What you are looking for are called Dawson Plugs. Scott Deno has advertised on the forum that he has reproduced a batch. His number is 814-571-9790. Good Luck.

As little as your car will be driven and kept out of the Canadian weather I would think any good chassis grease would do the job.

The cracks I have seen jump out at you. If you look at the crack closely you usually see a rust mark as the crack has been there for some time. As the crack gets bigger it moves faster. It's better to check than be sorry.

Hello my forum friends, I have a speed-O cable in a Preferred Perfect Products package NOS #7315. Can anyone tell me what it fits and does anyone need it. Attached is a picture showing the ends and it is 66" long. Thanks for your help keeping the Hobby alive. Life is Good. Don

Many people have done this. You might consult your local Clutch/drive shaft shop.

I would guess most brass era car owners would go the extra work to keep their hardware. ( As close as possible)

I agree with EmTee, I had a friend who ( To my surprise) was able to straighten his rims. It was 10 times the work he figured and he bought the second press because the first was to small. He also frabicated jigs to hold the wheel. It's far easier to chase down good used parts.

In the car hobby they use the term "Split Head". I don't think they are talking about a mechanic who was hit by a fan blade. All kidding aside, Check your fan blades when they are still on the fan.

It would be well worth your time to inspect your older fan for cracks. Many a person has been hit by a blade and look at the expense to repair your radiator, side panels or hood. I have done all the above over the years. "Jus Sayin"

A lot of problem's can arise from the wrong clearance with the brake push rod

I have studied early wheels, as I have cars that use them. Each term is used for a exact definition or subtle difference. After reading several of the above post I must admit, "I Be Confused"

Hello, I have a good grasp of point ignition and distributor placement. Give me a ring if you get stuck. Don Feeney 740-816-4284

I would make it a point to attend some car shows/ cruise nights and look at clear coat paint "Up Close and Personal" I have seen it many times on prewar original cars and always felt it looked out of place. In the end it is "Your Call". How sad it would be to spend the money and then have to defend your decision to the majority prewar enthusiasts who will question you about it. Another way to look at the choice follows. 1. Clear coat, 2. Chrome Wheels. 3. 350 Chevy. If in the end you decide to go with clear coat. I would buy a small amount of product and paint a 2' x 2' piece of sheet metal and set it on your running board and step back and look at it. "Jus Sayin"

I would think through the Buick Club or the Buick section of this forum you could find good used parts.( Post what you are looking for) There are a lot of wheels/rims/axles sitting around as spares. You do have to "Shake the Bushes" and it is always good to network with other owners of the same year car. You will be surprised how helpful people can be. You do have to be patient and follow up on leads.