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Marv, Ok, I went through my Brake Shoe ID Catalog, and came up with the image below as the closest fit, based on the specs you gave. The specific shapes and hole locations seem to be the same. But note that the shoe in the drawing has a reinforcement spot welded or riveted on at the the top end (at left, in the drawing). Does your shoe have a reinforcement, perhaps on the back side of your photo? I also note that the image in my catalog features 9 holes, while your photo shows only 8. The dimensions listed for this shoe in the catalog are 14 X 2-1/4". You listed it as 14 X 2. Moreover, your description says the shoe is for 14" brake drum (nominal-size I.D.). Are you certain of this spec? This is not the dimension of the length of the shoe from one end to the other. Rather it is the dimension of the inner diameter of the drum. Perhaps you should draw a 14" diameter circle with a compass and see if it exactly matches the curve of your lined shoe? Also, verify that width. The only vehicles I could find listed for this shoe number were IHC trucks, various models, from 1961 to 1968. 14" diameter drums are pretty big, so it may be for heavy duty models. But this catalog is not designed for collectors or repairmen. It is for rebuilders and/or manufacturers. So it is somewhat difficult to use to pin down exact models. This catalog was produced in 1971, and seems to go back as far as 1961, for listings. Good luck.

Just returned home from a visit to family in New England. I will try to get caught up on chores, and look again for the parts each of you have asked for. Thanks to all for your help and interest. I wish everyone a prosperous and healthy 2017.

Wow. Awesome.

Between the Hudson and Buick on the street is a 38 Dodge, next to the 37 Ford.

somewhere I have a brake shoe ID catalog. Post a good side-view photo, and I'll start looking for that old catalog.

I worked in a transmission shop back in the mid 70's, and got pretty good at finding those pesky leaks. First, in MY experience, I almost never found a pan gasket to be the source of the problem UNLESS some overzealous person had over-tightened pan bolts to the point that they crushed pan gaskets to pieces. Second, the most important thing about fixing a leak was to accurately FIND the leak for absolute certain. Our best tool was the old style chlorinated BraKleen spray product. We would spray generous amounts of it directly on all the potential leak points on any particular transmission. This stuff dries right in front of your eyes in just a few seconds, taking any oil/grease/dirt along with it. You suddenly have super-dry and super clean surfaces, where before you had dirty, oily messes. Next we would put someone in the car and raise it back up on the hoist, and start the engine. We would put it in and out of gear a few times, while someone underneath shined a light from one potential leak point to another, moving quickly and watching for oil to start oozing through. This worked flawlessly for us, almost every time. The super-dry potential-leak areas would remain that way, EXCEPT for the guilty leak source. Even the tiniest seepage was easy to spot. 400 turbos were very popular and common transmissions in those days. The dipstick tube o-ring was a common leak point, as were the shift-lever seal and the front and rear main seals. Keep in mind that for the front pump seal and the tail shaft seal, it is usually the bushing which the torque converter shaft rides on which wears out, allowing the torque converter (or driveshaft yoke in the rear) to move around too much, damaging the seal. So if you replace just the seal in such cases, the leak will return in a few weeks or months. If your front or rear main seals are leaking, be sure to replace those bushings first. You'll need special tools to replace the bushings. It is nearly impossible to pull the old bushings out otherwise. In my experience, cooling lines were not often the source of leaks UNLESS someone had removed them recently. And when I did find the lines leaking, all too often someone would have distorted them or twisted them to the point that a tiny hole had been created in the line. So first, make sure you have definitely FOUND your exact leak point. Then if you need further advice, it will be easy to assist. Good luck!

Just getting ready to leave town, Gwells. Thanks for your response. I'll get back to you Sunday or Monday. But quickly, YES, I do have a copy of MOTORING MASCOTS OF THE WORLD. It has similar style hood ornaments, but not this one. I found this in a book or on a website, or SOMETHING like that about 10 years ago. Yes, I have taken it off the Hupmobile wing cap many times. We got those two items at different times. We simply put it on the Hupp cap because that was an easy way to display it. I definitely saw this ornament in a listing of ornaments, which even told who made it. That's when I found out about the leering face that she is standing upon. I'll take more photos when I return. I'm pretty darn certain that it was an automotive aftermarket accessory, and apparently it was fairly exclusive and high-end...sorta like Lalique ornaments were. Thanks so much for your help.

I am DYING to find the book in which I saw this ornament described in detail. If any of the experts here have any books on hood ornaments, please check through them to see if you can find this one. I'll gladly buy my own copy of that book, whenever I discover the name and title of it. Happy holidays, everyone!

Harvest, I end up finding old trim items like these at garage sales, etc, from time to time. My best bet for ID has been to look for casting numbers on the backside. SOMETIMES these numbers are part numbers, or at least numerically close to part numbers. But more often, the numbers have been searched by other people online. So for example, if I find a chrome-plated diecast door mirror with number 123456 on the back, I will google "mirror 123456." Often it will show up on some forum, where somebody will have posted that they are looking for a part with that description, and mentioning what car they are working on. Other times, I may not find a number, but will find a logo, like the Chrysler DPCD symbol, one of the Ford logos, etc. At least that will get me closer. If there is nothing useful on back...then the experts of this forum are your best choice. Good luck, and happy holidays.

Thanks! Same to you. As Tiny Tim said, "God bless us, Everyone!"

Compressor was on the opposite side of the engine compartment from the alternator/generator, for access and clearance purposes. So 1968 and older, it was on passenger side (see pic of 1964 small block below). For 1969 and newer, it was on driver's side (see photo of 1969 Impala SS 427 engine below). Like anything else with factory-built cars, there are a few exceptions, of course. But those are uncommon.

I too have hundreds of old automotive light bulbs, going back to the late teens. Also have lots of catalogs for old light bulbs. I can help, if you wish.

I actually wrote a rather extensive book on Chevy V8 Engine casting numbers and identification features for Amos Press some years ago. It was a big project, and I learned a ton of info doing it.

Here is a photo of the crank shaft pulley with TWO belt grooves, as required for power steering. This is on a 1970 SS 396 Chevelle. Note that if you had Air conditioning or an A.I.R. pollution system, a third pulley groove would be needed.

1968 and older SMALL BLOCK cylinder heads don't even have bolt holes for mounting the later style brackets, so you can't use the 68 and older system unless you have 1968 or older cylinder heads.

Then in 1969 Chevy big block and small V8 engines got a new design, with the alternator on the passenger side of the engine. The new water pump was longer, and the alternator used a totally different style of alternator mounting bracket, which was secured by a long bolt which threaded into a bolt hole in the top of the cylinder heads, near the valve cover gasket surface. See big block Chevelle engine photos below.

F&J is right, Romko. Chevrolet V8 engines on 1968 and older passenger cars used a set-up with the alternator on the driver's side of the engine, with a shorter water pump. This is true for both big block and small block engines. See photos of a 67 Camaro and a 63 409 Chevy below:

Wow. I have donated stuff to the museum, because it was a part of AACA. Wonder what happens to that stuff now? Can you imagine how people who donated entire cars must feel? Hope everything works out ok.

BillhymerMD, You are getting lots of great advice here. I'll offer a suggestion of something to check that is totally different, but resulted in similar type symptoms for my 1923 Hupmobile. Do you have an inline fuel filter? (Preferably a clear one, so you can check it visually). Like you, I have an electric fuel pump with a pressure regulator dialed down as low as possible. And over many years we have enjoyed driving our reliable car around all over the place. But then suddenly it would start running poorly, with symptoms similar to those you described. Long story short, we found dirt/rust in carb bowl, which was interfering with needle and seat, causing fuel puking, poor performance, etc. We tried everything to solve the problem, but all fixes were just temporary. Removed fuel tank, coated it inside, etc, etc, etc, etc. And it would be great for a few months, and then the problem would return. Upon examination we found the fuel filter full of crap again, with the problem returned. Eventually we fabricated a brand new gas tank out of stainless steel, and replaced or rebuilt all components in the fuel system. Problem solved...permanently. Of course this may have nothing to do with your issue. But the symptoms were similar, so I offer my experiences. Good luck!

Another harsh reality of our car hobby today is that many highly-effective chemicals which were used "back in the day" for various processes are now banned by EPA, etc. Maybe this has something to do with whitewall tire color durability? Remember when gasoline had tetraethyl lead, which eased valve train wear and allowed for higher compression ratios? (It's gone today.) Do you recall the days when there used to be several chrome platers in every major city? Around here (Dayton, Ohio), they are virtually all gone now. Asbestos was our best bet for gasket material in exhaust manifolds, and a critical component in brake linings. Virtually gone now. We could all give many similar examples, of harsh (but effective) chemicals and materials being no longer available. And, there is much more, WORSE legislation being proposed every day. I spent some time on the board of directors of SEMA in the 1990's, and I was continually stunned and shocked by proposed legislation coming out of California. Anyway, I just wonder if this "greening process" may have anything to do with the problem of whitewall discoloration today?

I inherited a 1923 Hupmobile touring car when my parents were lost in a tragic accident. In their attic I found some spare parts, including rolls of brake lining, rivets, and a rivet-setting tool. I have often wondered how difficult it might be to reline the external bands, whenever it becomes necessary. It seems simple enough, but I worried if it might be tough to compress the coils of friction material enough to get it to lay "flat enough" etc? I also wondered how much asbestos is in that material, and how dangerous that might be? Conversely, I wondered if the material I have might be hard to find these days, due to restrictions on asbestos? I understand that the government has slightly changed its stance on the danger of asbestos in recent years, and that many brake linings for modern cars may still have some asbestos content. And I was exposed to asbestos in the air many times years ago, when I was an apprentice sheet metal worker. Thus I am not totally panicked by the possible presence of a little asbestos. Yet, I wouldn't want to be foolish and careless about it. Now that I have seen this info from Stude Light, maybe I will just choose to use Clutch Doctor or some other supplier when the time comes, and eliminate all these concerns. Thanks, Stude Light.

Kanter Auto Products in Boonton, NJ, has an amazing inventory of obsolete engine parts in stock. Call them at 1-800-526-1096 and ask for their engine parts dept. (I am not affiliated).

Holy cow, Pigmy! Now THAT is an ambitious project! Glad to see someone is saving this one, but you're a braver man than me. Good on ya, Mate!

Dennis, I am so sorry, but I do not seem to have any of those. I have only the clamps you saw in that photo, although I have quite a few other bolts. Closest one I have is a Stanweld "6-TN," Wish I could help.

MisterC9, that is a NEAT car. I love stories like this, of a car which has been owned by the same guy for decades. Can you show us more photos of the whole car? Don't worry about condition or appearance. I am one of those guys who really appreciates old, original "patina" appearance. Thanks!