MikeC5
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Everything posted by MikeC5
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Agreed. I hear no such humming using the original vacuum tank set up. -
Not very likely I agree. Perhaps it is a carburetor issue? Idle jet clogged? I think these were still very simple carbs in '73 and should be easy to rebuild.
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If you suspect bad gas throw in a couple bottles of 'dry gas' (which is mostly alcohol). Unlike gasoline, it mixes with water. However, a lot of places sell gas with 10% ethanol already in there. Have you tried the volume test? This engine has a mechanical fuel pump and it should deliver some amount of fuel while cranking the engine. I'm just not sure what the spec is. I don't imagine a fuel pump is very expensive for one of these. Probably worth a try.
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Thanks PD. That's a good data point I can test against.
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Yes good point. I'm guessing in '73 the tank was still vented by the gas cap. Later systems vented through an added tube at the top of the tank which was plumbed to a charcoal filter (and the gas caps no longer had a vent holes).
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I drove a slant-6 powered Mopar for several years... Have you replaced the fuel filter? When you say the sending unit looks good, have you pulled it out of the tank and checked the pick up tube screen for evidence of debris? Is it possible someone used gas tank sealer goop to fix a leak? That stuff has been known to disbond from tank surfaces and create fuel pick up havoc. There may be a fuel pump volume delivery spec for this car. You disconnect the fuel line at the carb, direct flow into a graduated contianer and should get 'x' ouces in 'y' seconds at a specified rpm. It sounds to me like a fuel pick up or filter problem.
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See the recent thread "Slow Progress but Getting There"...
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1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration
MikeC5 replied to Ian_Greenlaw's topic in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Very nice. What material goes over this? -
Reviving a 69 Dodge Sportsman Van
MikeC5 replied to Scotts_DG8's topic in Our Cars & Restoration Projects
It was fun to finally get it moving under its own power. After seeing your van I wish I had looked into getting everything blasted. One advantage I had is that taking the body off the frame was pretty easy and then the body is light enough that it could be tipped on its side or flipped over without too much effort (a rotisserie would have been nice though)... It is amazing how long every little thing takes. -
Reviving a 69 Dodge Sportsman Van
MikeC5 replied to Scotts_DG8's topic in Our Cars & Restoration Projects
Looking good! They did a real thorough job with the blasting. -
A whole week, nice! I wish I could make it over there on Friday but it doesn't look like it. Please take plenty of pics!
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Have you tried playing with the adjustment turnbuckle on the pedal linkage? 0.17" sounds a little short but that's just eyeballing it. When the clutch is fully depressed you should be able to separate the lined plates from the fixed plates a little bit with a screw driver.
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Is it a manual or automatic Ray? The Model T's primary brake is on one of the transmission drums. The innards of the planetary gear T tranny are very much like a conventional automatic with the exception that the bands are actuated via pedals/contracting bands rather than hydraulics. It may be the Rover does something similar for a parking brake.
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That's a good way to put it Tony. I did manage to lock one of the rear wheels briefly with the parking brake which did surprise me a bit (although it shouldn't have due to the reasons you mentioned). Easy enough to avoid hills in Florida, eh Jason? I changed the gearbox to STP this evening and will give it a try soon...
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I hope it all went well. On a mid-20's DB, where does your Motometer typically read during CT driving?
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Thanks Guys. It's going down hills I worry about without being able to downshift. What have you guys used for brake linings? Is there something with a higher coefficient of friction than the original asbestos linings (that can conform to the band)? I am tempted to try the STP. Restoration Supply Co. has some 1500w stuff for $38/gal if STP doesn't help.
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I know these issues have been brought up before but I didn't see anything very recent on what works best especially when it comes to down shifting. I have some 80W-140 synthetic in there now and I just can't downshift (into 2nd) when the car is moving in 3rd gear. I have tried double clutching and it still won't go (just grinds). I did have the top off and the gears looked fine. I have no problem getting it into 1st when stopped. I'm thinking of using a 1000 or 1500 ISO viscosity oil in there. Any recommendations?
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Do you know specifically what they were fixing/replacing?
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I've heard some people enjoy it... with chains too!
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Good question John. I also have to make one of those rear wooden strips. Do you plan to do it yourself? If not and you find someone who can do it, please let me know.
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I'm trying to think of something good to say about that '1917 Dodge'... At least he kept the engine 'in the family' sort of. I got nothing else...
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That kind of thing happens over here all too frequently Ray. Some years ago my wife actually had her car sabotaged when she took it into a tire place to get wheels balanced. They slit the CV boots, mis-balanced the wheels so they knew she would return and then put her car on the lift and showed here all the grease splattered everywhere from the 'bad' CV joints. She knew enough that she smelled a rat. Once cleaned up it was obvious the boots had been slit with a razor and nothing was wrong with the rubber. Of course they denied it....
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I don't doubt it guys...
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Great photos! Do you really think there are Model Ts in heaven though?
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I'll eventually do some with and without comparisons... As for aftermarket accessories, is it fair to say there were salesmen who would push things that people didn't necessarily need? A radical thought I realize...
