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Still looking at rebuilding wiring on the '51 76R. Can anyone point out how the wires attach to the neutral switch (Dynaflow-equipped car). If terminals screw on, screw heads aren't obvious. I don't want to go pulling on things unless maybe these are bullet terminals... Thanks!

Relisted - http://www.ebay.com/itm/141474461136 - '51 / '52 hood ornament, $25 + ship. SOLD - http://www.ebay.com/itm/141466363175 - '55 dash switches - heater/defroster fans, $50 + ship. SOLD - http://www.ebay.com/itm/141466364450 - '55 dash heat/air control sliders, $25 + ship. Relisted - http://www.ebay.com/itm/141474460352 - '51 / '52 hood emblem, $12.50 + ship. http://www.ebay.com/itm/141467434977 - '54 / '55 / '56 hardtop courtesy lamp, left side, $45 + ship. http://www.ebay.com/itm/141467441546 - '55 tail light lenses (pair), 1 is NOS/repro, $35 + ship. I know, not a lot of time left on some of these. If they aren't sold, I'll relist.

Hey, I am getting a Buick I found back on the road after many years. I believe I need an ignition switch, though it could be the key cylinder for the switch or, something else? Here is what is happening: The starter wants to kick back in after the key is released. So, it starts the car fine but then tries to kick the starter gear back in randomly. It does not do this consistently. Sometimes it will start right up and the starter never disengages. Other times it starts and runs as normal, then kicks the starter again after 20 seconds or so. Also, I discovered that turning the key to "Accessory" also engages the starter! I found a YouTube Video that walked me through the "top secret" ignition switch removal (turn to Acc. push a paperclip through the hole to get the lock release, twist counter-clockwise). I cleaned the key cylinder and switch with ether, lubed and re-assembled. No change at all. So, am I missing anything? Should I be buying a switch, cylinder, complete assembly, or do I have a crossed wire or something? Thanks in advance! Russ

I have for sale a Convertible Top Switch for the 1949 and 1950 Chrysler products (I believe) with 6V electric folding tops. It is the same basic switch as for the 1951 1952 1953 and 1954 however the toggle stem is a different length. The rectangular lke portion of the stem is 7/16" long. The threaded portion is 3/8" long. The toggle stem is 1/2" long. This was in a box of NOS switches that had become separated from their boxes. I believe this would be part number 1302996. I have checked it with an Ohm meter and it functions properly. The handle returns to center nicely after being rotated right or left. The threads look new and no indication a toggle handle was on it before. I had this one as a backup but once I found a correct spare one for my car, I no longer need this one. A deal at $249.

Hey loyal DB folks, I have an old '26 DB Business Coupe that I promised I'd drive in the 4th of July Parade for the Cub Scouts... I can't get the car started using the key. For some reason when I put in the key and turn to the Right, (with the clutch and brake pressed), I don't hear the generator motor kick on (...that wonderful little humming noise). However, when I stepping on the starter button, the motor turns over vigourosly but the engine doesn't fire... Up to this time I've driven the car freely and it starts up the first time each time...even in the winter. At first I thought the battery didn't have enough charge so I charged the battery, lights come on, the starter turns the engine but not generator noise. I think something is wrong with the ingition switch and it's not making contact... as the Ammeter doesn't move when I turn the key, nor do I hear the generator. I think that if I could somehow bypass the starter switch, I should be able to get power to the Ammeter and thus to the generator. So my question is: if I took a lead and clipped it to a solid ground, and then clipped the other end to the negative post on the Ammeter, would that effectively bypass the switch and allow power to flow to the Ammeter and eventually the Generator...and let me drive the car as long as that connection is maintained? Not good enough with electricity to understand why the starter switch (on the floor) is getting power but not the Ammeter /Generator. I've added a diagram to describe what I want to do. I want to drive the car in the 4th of July Parade for the Cub Scouts but cannot get the darn thing started. Please let me know. Shawn

G'day all We're now having issues with our brake lights on our '55 Super. First up we put new globes in (among other things) then find the fuse keeps blowing. Put the old globes back in and all ok. Anyone know the exact specs on the correct globes? The ones it's running has nothing ledigble written on them. Second - and more imporantly - the brake lights only come on when the pedal is pushed very firmly (closer to the floor). Obviously not the best set up. Is there any adjustment in the hydraulic switch etc? Thanks again