MikeC5

A little history reveals itself... I removed a patch on a front fender today. Look what it was made from... It looks like a Great Depression repair.

I finally got around to pulling these apart with a thin screw driver and a pencil torch. I bent the steel rings up pretty good but was able to straighten them up somewhat. It's difficult to get them out because the OD of the steel ring is actually a bit larger than the ID of the small aft bevel on the brass trim ring. I don't like the idea of having to re-solder these things in after chrome. Heat will discolor the chrome wont it?

Can you post some photos of the carb float bowl and parts? I apologize for the confusion on the neoprene. It is the seat, not the needle that is neoprene (I've rebuilt other non-DB carbs that use neoprene tipped needles). As for the fittings on the vacuum tank, they are standard NPT and you can get brass fittings to fit them at any decent hardware store (I got mine at Home Depot). I'm sure the originals look a bit different but the new stuff will do the job.

Hi Doug, from your member photo it is hard to tell what year your car is but if mid-twenties a touring car windshield is easy to remove by first loosening the windshield stanchion nuts which are located under the dash on each side. You don't need to take them all of the way off. Then undo the acorn nut at each end of the upper (or lower) windshield and carefully remove the washers, spring, ball bearings, etc. (and note how it should go back together). Loosen the acorn nuts on the other half of windshield. What you're after is enough freedom of movement of the stanchions so you can slide the windshield to one side to the window frame stud on opposite side can escape from the stanchion hole. The just carefully lift the frame out. I haven't done the T-rubber yet but will be soon. I noticed there is an enlarged opening in the T-rubber groove on one side of the frame and my guess is this is where you insert the T. I''m thinking maybe WD-40 or silicone spray might be helpful in lubricating things so it can easily be pushed down the groove. I'll post my experience when I get to it. If you get there first, please let us know how it goes.

I've got it now... It has to say only Folberth!

Interesting ad for sure. The disc wheels were popular there it seems. A rough conversion is around $2 for 1 lb sterling. I wonder what it was in 1922?

I certainly hope, for the hobby's sake that people share like this for all antique cars.

I bought a gasket set for my 25 from these guys and was very happy with it. Olson's Gaskets - Products

Please change the oil, oil filter and 'stuff' in the radiator before trying to start it...

I just picked them up and am revising my estimate to no more than 3 lbs each.

Ha ha!! I have a rule of buying antique classic cars that goes "never pay more for a wiper motor than you did for the rest of the car"... Bizarre eh?

That confirms what Tom Meyers told me about these. Anyone have the ability to cast reproductions out of aluminum? It seems there would be a market for them...

I forgot to add, good point on the water/dirt ingestion factor Pete. And some redundant grounding never hurt anybody (except maybe from a lightning strike)...

I'll weigh them this weekend Ray but I don't think they're more than 4 - 5 lbs each.

You have a nice start there indeed. I have to agree that it may be better to take the head off and inspect those cylinders before you try and start it. Or if you happen to know someone with a bore scope you can borrow. Good luck with it!

There is no doubt that is great candidate for restoration. Everything is there, it looks unmolested, really a great find. My advice would be don't rush it. You have Floating Power!

You could with a shear and brake (but the spring perch covers would be tough). If you could mock them up with cardboard and then make a flat pattern from that... If you really want to try it I could try and trace the outline and mark where the bends go and mail it to you. I saw a pair on fleabay a few weeks ago.

First thing is finding out if it's the old 4 cylinder or the 'Fast Four'. I believe 27 was the transition year. Someone here should be able to tell you from the engine or car serial number.

I put a light coat of high temp red RTV around all of the coolant passages when I put on the new HG and no leaks so far (although it hasn't been run much either). I figured it was worth a try.

I'm talking about real molasses Ray.. A gallon of feed-grade molasses diluted into 5 - 9 gallons of water makes a cost-effective rust remover. I've got a little kiddie pool and just submerge rusty parts in it. The high temperatures help it work fast (around a week will remove rust even down into the bottom of pitting). It smells good for the first several days; now, not so much... Unlike an acid, it doesn't harm the steel in my experience (and what I've read about it). Do a search on it. Some people submerge whole car bodies in it!

They were fresh out of the molasses bath. I was surprised, no holes where there shouldn't be or bends, modifications, etc.

Good ideas guys. The channel is quite pricey and my glass guys says he thinks the non-hardening (urethane?) sealant will do the trick.

Here ya go. Let me know if you need measurements and I'll do the best I can.

I can't imagine why there would be a left and right from an electrical standpoint. I think Ray is right. On my '25, the connectors are identical.

I will post some good pictures of them.