MikeC5

I think I have a spare I could spare... If you can, please post a photo so I can be sure it is the same.

I did this job a few months ago and have already forgotten... Oh where did I put those brain cells... Ah yes, there is no seal needed for the front; that's what the crank hole cover takes care of. The rear seal is made from the supplied (in Olsen's kit) piece of felt. It's about a half inch thick and a few inches long and you need to pre-bend it around the groove in the lower rear main bearing cap. At that point you contact cement it in place. Before installing the pan, put a dab of oil pan-type silicone sealer in the corners where the felt seal ends will meet up with the crankcase (as there will probably be gap; apparently the oil pan stretches the seal up toward the crankcase when the pan is tightened up). It worked for me, no leaks.

I've heard that in California it is very restricted what the home/hobbyist can use for paint. In Connecticut I don't know of any impending legislation to head things in that direction. I can still buy lacquer, enamel and the newer urethanes here.

Mine does have a cone shaped screen in there although it's a pretty coarse mesh (it's really more like a punched holes than a screen). I was thinking of adding some steel wool on top of this to add some surface area for oil vapor to condense on. My JD lawn tractor has something like steel wool in the oil breather.

Very nice work. It's good to know that the HF stud gun is up to the job too. I might just have to wander over there and procure one...

I had never noticed those casting marks for oil level on the block. Thanks for the tip!

Thanks for the help brothers..

These had already been disassembled from the car when I bought it (so it isn't a failure to take photos before).. Can anyone please post a close up of how these buggers are supposed to go on there? And I seem to recall that the front and rear ones are different and am not sure which is which...

One other thing I've read is that detergent oils are designed to keep dirt particles in suspension so they will make their way to the oil filter and thereby get removed. A non-detergent oil doesn't do this (a matter of degree, I suspect) and the crud falls to the oil pan where it hopefully stays. All I can say is when I removed and cleaned out the oil pan, it sure had a nasty layer of muck stuck to it but the crankcase didn't look too bad. None of that heavy sludge I used to find in valve covers/heads on OHV engines (with insufficient oil changes).

Ha ha! Oblique is a little too oblique...

It's a Metropolitan. A Neopolitan is an Italian-style ice cream (or a resident of Naples).

That is no doubt a sound piece of advice Jason and I will take it. There is indeed a lot of flexing going on to get that thing on there. It wasn't the military vehicle guy who gave it to me. I will let him identify himself (or herself) if they wish.

The heater bled bled off the exhaust but where did it eventually dump?

Thanks for the inspiration Ray!

A fellow Dodge Brother was kind enough to give me the pictured front lower apron. I figured it would at least be good metal working practice. After 3 hours of beating I think it is restorable....

Awful strange there Richard. It would seem to defeat the purpose of ducting carbon monoxide out behind you and not up through the floor boards. I'm not an expert but I can tell you that the rusted pipe that was on my 25 had no such holes nor did the replacement I bought from Meyers. I sure wouldn't duplicate that feature.

Ha ha! I hear you Pete. I will have to check that too (the hard way).

Thanks DKCL, I did grease the cable although it was just plain old wheel bearing grease. I'll check it though. It does sound like the speedo will need to come apart.

My 25's drum speedometer sort of works but the drum fluctuates wildly. The odometer appears to work properly. Is this a common malady for these? Anyone have any tips on fixing it? I'm not afraid to take it apart...

Looking good, moving right along... I need to learn how to do that metal shrinking thing...

I'm not sure about '28 but for the earlier fours there were no torque specs. I guess it was assumed any good mechanic had the 'feel'...

An interesting group of characters for sure. It sure looks like fun! I've got to get out there for Speed Week one of these days. I did drive out there once a few years ago while on a business trip to SLC. It was in July or August and it was hard to even open your eyes on the salt it was so bright. It was fun to get the rental car out there (a Caddy CTS no less)... hee hee..

Myers Early Dodge Then click on 'contact' button.

How is this going John? The long piece has some subtle 3D contour if I not mistaken. How are you handling that?

I'm sure Myers does sell the appropriate gasket. It's constructed just like the exhaust manifold copper ring gaskets. I added a little bit of red RTV on it and under the washer where it bolts on and no leaks...