MikeC5

I wonder what kind of force it takes to do that.

I'm glad you did figure it out. You were able to straighten the axle in-situ?

I would take a look at the advance/retard linkage for the distributor first. I suspect a lack of advance in high gear would be more noticeable. It is possible an intermittent coil could be the problem although I don't suspect it is very likely. A 'modern' canister-type coil can be had pretty cheap at a well stocked auto parts store (or auto recycler) and you will just need to figure out how to temporarily clamp it in place and connect it up. If this solves the problem there is someone on here (memory escapes me) that rebuilds coils. I'm sure there are other things that could cause this problem but that's my best guess.

Speaking of old aircraft, did you guys see this? Crashed plane of Second World War pilot Dennis Copping discovered in the Sahara desert | Mail Online

Looks fairly complete..

I was running the engine today and after it warmed up it began missing. I know the valve clearances are not too tight (I purposely set them a bit large just for good measure). So it's sitting there idling and then I hear a 'poof' sound and dark grey smoke starts pouring out from under the exhaust manifold! I'm thinking cracked block? Well luckily it was only my (modern) coil blowing its top. I had the coil sitting in the open hole where the original coil would go and apparently the (taller) coil was a wee bit too close to the exhaust manifold. These coils are oil filled (I read somewhere) and this one looked to have a small plug on the top that acted as a relief valve. I'm pretty sure over-temping a coil doesn't do wonders for proper ignition. I'll have to find another place to mount it. Eventually I will have to fork over the $200 to get a rebuilt original coil though.

I remember the Bristol Stomp..

You may be right Jason, I had assumed the copper line was original but with the level of rust on my car it probably did get replaced. Was copper unusually expensive in the twenties? Maybe seamless copper tubing wasn't available then either. Perhaps there are some engineering reasons to avoid copper (low fatigue strength?). The vacuum tank will let me know at the first sign of a leak though...

Lucky for you... Enjoy the car!

Maybe we can agree the car is 'identity challenged'

I'm looking for the front splash apron for a 25 touring car. If you should happen upon one that appears restorable I would sure be interested.

Hi Bill, it looks like your car didn't have the front apron. Where did you find one?

How is it done on the disc type wheels?

Have you tried Olson's Gaskets?

Neat stuff!

Good idea!

Thanks Pete! That's what I needed.

Thanks Pete. Those do help. Can you get one shot from the other side of engine showing how the pivot is installed (near the exhaust manifold big nut). It's where the motion of the advance 'cross over' rod transfers to the rod going to distributor.

Oops, wrong thread...

Thanks Pete. Those do help. Can you get one shot from the other side of engine showing how the pivot is installed (near the exhaust manifold big nut). It's where the motion of the advance 'cross over' rod transfers to the rod going to distributor.

The two vendors I've used most are Meyers Early Dodge, myersearlydodge.com and Romar, romardb.com. The other place I've seen engine kits is Egg Machine Co., EGGE Machine Company - Parts and Services for Nostalgic Motors. I bought my gasket set from Olsen's Gaskets, Olson's Gaskets

Jeff, it appears from the first photo (in your last post) that you still have the front valence on. In order to undo the front engine mount you need to remove the crank hole cover, remove the valence and then you will see the 3 bolt heads that secure the ball socket-style front motor mount. With he engine supported by lift, pull the ball looking part out of the crank hole. Sorry I don't have pics of doing this.

I'm having a heck of a time getting these linkages adjusted properly. I can't seem to get he full range needed for the advance. The throttle linkage to the hand lever isn't working too well either. Anyone have some good pics of how they should be? They were disassembled from the car already when I bought it so no 'before' pics. I suspect I may not have the pivot for the advance linkage oriented correctly too.

The fuel line isn't copper tubing? That's what was on my '25 anyway.

Hi Jeff, Yes the hand crank goes through a hole and engages at the front of the crankshaft. The hole cover screws in with right hand threads. The cover should have a 1/2 inch square hole to put the opposite end of the hand crank in to unscrew it (or a 1/2 drive rachet). If it's buggered up, you may have to grip it on the edges with channellocks or vice grips. Good luck!