MikeC5

If you drive it a lot in the rain I can see where an upgrade would be well justified from a safety perspective. As long as you can convert it without major modifications, it can always be switched back to stock if you later change your mind.

Here's what came on my 25 touring Bill.

I get some tonight Bill.

My 25 touring came with the half moon style Trico mounted on the inside of the windshield. I can't say it was original for sure but it appeared to be.

Very interesting thread. I'm looking forward to the 'home stretch'!

ROMAR Home Page Myers Early Dodge These are two reputable companies I would start with.

Hold on, Snyders Ford reports that the square hole is 7/8"... I may give this a shot.

Nice work! I think you can get a router bit for these type of finger joints.

I was thinking Fig Newton-Meters too...

I really don't know if there is a nickname for them here Ray. If there is I image it is unprintable as well... As for speed traps, we refer to them as 'fund raisers'.. BTW, it doesn't appear the Model A pitman arm would be an easy swap since I'm told the square dimension is 15/16" (the DB's measured 7/8"). If it were the other way around, machining the square a bit bigger would have been the ticket.

Having owned and restored an MGB in earlier days I was familiar with most of the British terms for components but the MG didn't have splash aprons... I know the dashboard is a facia, spanner = wrench, darkness = Lucas, etc... I always liked the idea that electrical components have a certain amount of smoke built in to them. If you 'let the smoke out', that's why it won't work! hee hee!

I was able to remove all 4 cups (2 from each end of drag link). I'm going to bring the pitman arm into work and have it inspected. We have a very sensitive fluid penetrant inspection. If the necked down area at the base of the ball is not cracked or worn, it is hard to imagine the snap off scanario as a probable failure mode (at least not much more probable than on a non-worn arm) . It seems to me the most likely thing to occur if the wear continues is the eventual loss of capture in the drag link (what is left of the ball pops out). Despite its nasty appearance it has a long way to go before that can happen. If the ball were to seize on the cups and one tried to overcome this by forcing the steering wheel, I suppose it is possible that failure could occur at this location. I have a hard time believing that such a seizure could happen all of a sudden though. I'm sure it would be preceeded by increased steering effort and looseness at the joint (if spring is properly adjusted). Anyone ever try a Model A pitman arm? In photos it looks very similar. I'm trying to get some dimensions to see if it's feasible.

Hi Tony, is the valance another name for the side apron? That is, the sheet metal that covers the side rails of the frame and also bolts to the front and rear fenders?

I was able to get both cups out of each end of the link. I'll have to start digging and see if there are any decent used and/or NOS parts out there. Just out of curiosity Ray, does MOT testing require a level of disassembly where something like this would be uncovered? As it is, the steering system (with a newly reburbished and adjusted steering gearbox) has almost no play (backlash, slop, etc), at the steering wheel despite the nasty wear on the pitman arm joint. The other thing I have trouble imagining with this issue is anything approaching a sudden failure. I would imagine steering would get progressively harder to turn the wheel as friction forces increase in the joint. It isn't like this is a constantly rotating bearing or joint; there isn't a whole lot of relative motion and as such, not much chance for significant heat build up. If this is true then I think seizing is not very likely.

Forgings may also have a parting line too though. Mass produced forgings typically have an upper and lower die in a monster press.

Thanks for the input guys. I'm going to keep an eye on it. I really don't think it will snap off since the narrow base of the sphere is fine. I'm using moly-disulphide grease which I'm sure is far better than whatever was used int he day. The steering isn't especially hard to turn (although I don't have much to compare with). I was wrong about the cups; there are 2 of them per joint. The forward joint on the link did look much better. It would be nice if the pitman arm ball could be replaced but the way it's forged, I really don't think there is enough material to allow for a hole to bolt a new ball on there. Any idea if the pitman arm is a casting or forging? I'm not sure I'd trust weld building up the ball if it's a casting (and I agree metal spraying isn't the way either Ray). If there is a more commonly available replacement for the pitman, I'd sure like to know about it. Since it doesn't have much offset, it does look like an arm made from flat wrought steel plate (with added beef for a hole at the link end) might work, assuming a ball and cups of the proper size can be sourced to fit the existing drag link.

I'll get a better picture showing the grease fitting placement. As near as can tell, the drag link only has the one cap. The spherical surface in side the drag link end appears to be machined into the link itself (no replaceable cup). I suppose one could get the pitman arm ball welded up and re-machined. Hopefully I can find out what the diameter should be. I don't think I've seen any replacement caps selling for these either...

I pulled apart the steering drag link rod joint where it connects to the steering gearbox sector arm to see what sort of condition things were in. Here are a few photos. The ball end on the sector arm does have noticeable wear and a sharp ridge created by the edge of the cup. Should I file this down? The cup photo shows some real metal on metal galling. Since I really have nothing to compare it to, I'm looking for input from anyone who has peeked at this. Was yours this worn? Is it still safe? Also, does anyone know why this abbreviated little grease fitting is used? It's the same thread as all of the others (1/8 PT x 28 tpi) but is shorter than a regular straight fitting (and has the screwdriver slot in the back for installation/removal). It there a tire clearance issue?

Thanks Vern.

Anyone happen to know the thread size used for the Alemite grease fittings (on a 25 if it makes a difference)? I bought some modern zerk(?) fittings a while back that had the correct thread but I can't remember where I got them. I'm sure it would help to know the thread size.

Click on the name, then choose 'public profile'. Look for the photo on the right side and click on it. It isn't terribly obvious I agree...

Nice looking machine. I like that shade of blue. It looks like you have a 12V system. On the passenger side of the engine, you have the water pump driving the distributor and the thing aft of the distributor is the original coil. The coil on the firewall is a modern retrofit. On the driver's side of the engine you will see a cylindrical object attached to the lower forward side of the engine- this is the starter/generator (yes, one unit does both functions). You should be able to sync out which way the throttle lever goes for a fast idle (look at the carburetor linkage as you move the lever up and down). When the lever pulls the linkage aft, that opens the throttle for a fast idle. The same goes for the spark advance lever except I can't remember which way is advance. Usually, the spark is fully retarded for starting (especially if using the hand crank). I'm sure more seasoned drivers will remember how it goes and post here...

Maybe a collector's car in 25 years...

O.K thanks P.D.

Should a 25 touring car wiper motor look like this one? Mine came with a Trico but it is one of those semi-circular jobs.