MikeC5

I did read somewhere (maybe here) that it wasn't unusual for production improvements to by made as they were ready. If so, many minor details could be different on cars 2 years apart in build date. The flat brackets I saw looked much less expensive to make that the hardware on Pete's car, leading me to believe he's correct about the hardware store origin.

I think I know what you're after on the top strap tie downs. There was a pair on fleabay a few months ago and I thought I had saved the image (got out bid). I can't find it though. They were simple, flat sheet metal and would be easy to have made (can someone post a photo and a few dimensions)? Interesting about the bumperettes. I don't think I've seen these before.

Hi John, welcome to the forum. In addition to the items you mentioned, I believe the parking lights (on the cowl) were extras. I'm in the middle of restoring a '25 touring car but the upholstery is really ragged and I don't see any evidence of strips you mentioned. Please post some photos of your car when you get a chance.

Wow I've never seen tilted shackles like that before. I think it's the other way around Ray, the machinist had to remove some material from the spring eye to make it round again. So the bushing has a larger OD surface area. I wouldn't expect enlarging the spring eye by 50 thousandths or so would significantly reduce the eye strength. I'd keep an 'eye' on it though, once you start driving it.

Good stuff!

Beautiful work! I'm afraid to look at my shackle bolts and bushings....

Yes mine does have them Pete. They appear to be anti-rotation features.

Duct tape would have been an improvement..

They look nice Pete. I guess I never noticed the angle these need to make in order that the saddles are correctly oriented. Myers sells these but they don't specify what year cars they are for.

Yes, car number A-323967. Ray, when I pulled off the brake drums earlier this year, the right side looked very greasy/oily behind there. The most likely reason (I figured) was differential lube getting past the felt seal at the end of axle. There is a sheet metal cover with hole that fits over the end of axle housing. It retains a felt seal next to the axle bearing. There is another seal that fits between the outside of this cover and the rear wheel hub (it gets squeezed between them). Tom Meyers says there are also seal(s) inboard of the axle bearing (which has it's own grease fitting for lube, does not rely on differential lube). I will ask Tom where the part numbers he has for these seals come from.

Thanks Jason, I did just get a note back from Tom and he said they are behind the rear axle bearings. They are shown in the MIM as 'grease washers' (although quantity is still ?). Romar also shows them as 6 per car with same p/n. I didn't pull the axle bearings so I'll have to wait until then... My car number is 323967.

Would sail cloth work for a folding top I wonder...

Thanks for the tip CKL. I didn't know that. Great name for an engine!

Hi Jason, I didn't see one in the MIM so I would welcome the exploded diagram. Thanks!

Oh come on, someone has experience with this...

Do you mean Triumph Spitfire?

Perhaps someone can shed a little light here. According to Myers, for the rear axle seals you need 6 per car of part 75034, inner seal and 2 per car of 75179, outer seal. Taking things apart, I see one seal behind the sheet metal cover on the end of axle and one that goes on the outside of this cover and gets squeezed between the brake drum/hub and the sheet metal cover. Where do the other 4 inner seals go?

Dynastarter? As originally equipped, a '23 Dodge would have a starter/generator combination unit. You may want to post a photo of what it is you're looking for.

That's a nice piece of work Bill. What is the white stuff?

I agree Ray, the satisfaction comes from doing it ones self. I plan to take a crack at upholstery and the top eventually.

Thanks Pete. It appears I'll have to do a little improvising (unless you would consider selling the spare 25 cable). My car didn't come with the cable and the one I'm trying to use is probably not correct. There is no obvious way to attach the cable to body (maybe silver solder?)

Hi Pete, I also browse through Snyders to see what might be adaptable. I'm thinking I might try their gas gauge. Please let us know what you end up doing for the top rests. And a close up photo of how the choke cable casing is held on the carb would be great. Also, on your spare, is the cable casing attached to the cast iron piece that bolts up to the dash? On mine they are not.

That is a pretty carburetor there Pete. Are you making up top saddles from scratch or modifying existing ones. Here are a few pix of body test fit to chassis for my touring car (note: no tourin' shroud). I hope to get in a test drive by next weekend (this will be the first time it will move under its own power since (probably) 1947.

I believe Myers Early Dodge may have them. Myers Early Dodge

I have had the pleasure of visiting Brisbane for several weeks a few years back and the XXXX brewery was certainly a landmark for me. I like how it is strategically located right next to the Broncos Rugby stadium! Now that's what I call reducing transportation costs... I'll bet they have a beer pipeline going over there... I did get to see the Broncos play (and win). Go Broncos!