MikeC5

Hi Bob, I sent you a PM about picking them up but my glass guy says he can do it without the channel. I'm going to see him this week about it. Mike

Good info guys, thanks. I do plan to install them. How true that Henry wouldn't have installed them if they served no purpose (and we can be sure that purpose wasn't just to spiff up the engine compartment).

I finally got the rust molassed off the splash shields. I seem to remember a comment or two from DB-ers who don't re-install these. Do they make the engine run hotter?

That makes sense Bill. It still seems a bit strange they painted over the outside though. Maybe it was to keep the same look as the headlights? I don't think there was such a thing as too much bling in the 20's.

You're welcome RJ. I'm glad it made it RJ. I worry about small packages falling through the cracks...

It doesn't bother me Ray (as long as it ain't politics or religion)....

That is, no doubt, the correct way to go about it Bill. I'll have to work up the nerve to try it. Did anyone notice the buckets for these were nickel plated? Mine were painted black but there was (what looks like) nickel plate. Seems a bit odd to paint over it. Did the factory do this?

Nice looking car too!

Meyers has new floats too (they did a few months ago). I also purchased a needle valve with neoprene tip from them and have had no carb problems. You might also want to see what it looks like in the gas tank. Mine had a lot of nasty 50 year old remnants of gasoline (hard black crumbly stuff) which could easily cause fuel system problems. I did have some trouble with the vacuum tank until I used some Permatex (aviation gasket sealer) on the gaskets. I installed a new fuel line and it runs like a champ now. It starts right up after sitting two weeks and I only shut off the fuel valve below the vacuum tank when parked in the garage.

Good point!

Like the old saying goes, if you have to ask the price, you probably can't afford it...

Tony covered it well. If you are located in the U.S., ordering up a new shaft and glands is easy. If shipping charges are high for your location it may be less expensive to have a local machine shop make these parts as they're pretty simple shapes. I was able to do my '25 pump without much difficulty.

Thanks for the tips gentlemen. The inner ring has little rust (visible, that is) but you do have a good point about possible galvanic corrosion Tony. I'll run it by my plater and see what he thinks too.

I'll have to give it a try (steam cylinder oil) but I have a strong suspicion that I will need practice, practice, practice more than anything else.

I believe someone posted not too long ago about a place in PA (Amish?) that does them.

I finally got out there and tested it with the STP in the gear box. The upshifts seem a bit smoother but I still can't downshift unless going very slow (speedo isnt working properly). What do you guys do when coming to a stop? Do you just wait until its going too slow for third and then shift to neutral?

I need to get the trim rings re-plated for the cowl lights but how do you get the lens out of them? The ring appears to be a 2 piece design with the outer part you see is brass and inner part, steel. Has anyone had any success in separating the two without destroying either piece? Or is it possible to mask the glass and re-plate as-is (and what should be used for masking?)

Good luck finding a rental with a stick...

Looks like they do remarkable work...

Thanks guys. I did get some tape from Meyers but I was afraid that U-channel stuff would still be needed. Measurements are 8 & 3/4 (x 2) + 38" for upper and roughly 7 (x 2) + 42" for bottom (112" total). The stuff at Snyders is $90 for the '23-'25 T but I'll have to check on measurements (width especially). The earlier years are much more expensive; not sure why. If you do have some extra Bob, please let me know.

I'm making the patterns for getting my new windshield glass cut. One of my worries about re-installation in what sort of trim/rubber is used to actually fit the windshield into the frames. My upper windshield had a u-shaped thin metal piece surrounding the glass (except on bottom edge) and under that was a sort of black tape looking stuff. The lower frame, which I had to purchase separately, had nothing in the frame. Has anyone dealt with this recently? Am I SOL without this U channel? Anyone know where I can get it or a modern equivalent?

I use this one too. SearchTempest Online Classifieds Search - All the Classifieds. One Search.

Welcome Pappy. That sure looks like a solid start. Good luck with it.

Outstanding!

Looks like a match... Speaking of sliver solder.. it's great stuff! The other photo here is a cowl lamp that I discovered, during pant stripping, was brass and had a few axial cracks. I was able to silver solder some steel reinforcements on the inside...