MikeC5

It seemed a bit less crowded than last year to me but not by much. It also seemed like there were far fewer golf carts, etc. compared to last year (except in the car corral). I like the sign one vendor had near the cross over bridge in chocolate north; "Your wife called and said go ahead and buy whatever you need for your car"...

Well no luck on finding a true Folberth vacuum wiper motor after two days of combing the Hershey flea market. I did pick up an Eveready brand cylindrical-style wiper (vacuum) motor but haven't been able to find anything but a photo or two. Does anyone have any kind of technical info on such a beast? I'll post pictures later but it looks just like the 3rd one down on the left in this picture Bonhams 1793 : A selection of vacuum windshield wiper units,

Maybe those little canvas top folding stools for rent.

I would pay for an on-line version too.

I know what you mean Ray. Most of my neighbors don't seem too interested. We do still sell the copper tubing in inch sizes here (at the big box stores anyway). I'm not sure about auto part stores but I suspect some might have both.

It's looking really good Ray.

Are you sure about that Jason? IIRC, master cylinders usually are supplied with plastic fittings and tubes that are attached to the fluid outlet port(s) so the fluid can be re-directed back into the reservoir or dumped into a container as the piston is pushed. I can't imagine you would get very far if the air can't be expelled in this manner. I believe it is usually done on the bench (i.e. held with a vice) while the rod is pushed although it could be done in the car. Master Cylinder Bleeding - How To Bench Bleed Your Master Cylinder - Remove Air Bubbles

O.K. now I've run into another roadblock.. How to get the inner bearing race out of the hub? I thought well I'll just machine up a plug of the appropriate diameter and press it out except there's no way to get it in behind the race; the opening is too small on the OD end! I tried using a 3 jaw gear puller with a bar across the push on and no luck (it slips off before any serious force is developed). I tried heating but I think the heat transfers too readily into the race so they expand the same amount. I could try and split the race but I need to get it out without damage to re-use it in another hub. The only thing I can figure is making a plug and cutting into a pie so the pieces can be assembled inside the hub, then a smaller diameter plug that goes through the OD side to push... There's got to be a better way.. Oh and I did try with a punch and it just won't budge.

I was able to find the 2012 Maps but was hoping the vendor index might also be available to allow pre-planning a route through the market to see vendors of most interest first (I'm also a bit directionally challenged). I looked around but had no luck finding the index. Thanks.

Ha ha! Interesting... Did you happen to notice any new trends in collector cars we should be thinking about now?

I was using a 10 lb sledge but it's not like you can really take a full swing (I'm not that accurate)... The little Harbor Freight cheapie, bottle jack press has been a good investment.

That is a nice looking truck! It looks like everything is there (except the wheels). Good luck with it. and how about a few more photos?

If this one is constructed like the (somewhat) smaller Stewart on my 25, you may be able to repair leaks in the can by re-soldering. I suspect you could repair the float leak too and since it is so much larger than a carb float I wouldn't think a little extra solder would matter much. I think the springs are available. I have driven my car up a few decent hills and it hasn't had any issues but then the hills were probably not long enough to really test the tank cycling... I vote for going original Ray.

Well you were right Terry, those studs were swaged but good. I did manage to press out the right hand thread ones without too much trouble (although my 12 ton press probably broke more of sweat than anything else I've done with it). Pressing out the left hand studs on the good hub went well too except for the last stud. It just would not budge and the stud began leaning to one side. I cut the stud off close to the hub flange and then drilled it out to 1/2 inch (largest drill I had). Still wouldn't budge with sledge hammer or press. I installed a small hacksaw and cut as far as I dared without going into the hub. Still no good. I finally had to carefully grind the swage area away (die grinder with burr) and finally got it to press out! Lucky I wasn't trying to re-use that one! I noticed the holes in the hub had what appeared to be shear torn areas. I really couldn't tell if these were caused by pressing out the stud or happened during punching the hole (if they were punched). I also found that interference fit was around 0.01 to 0.015 which kind of surprised me. In any case, installing the RH threads was easy in comparison. Those buggers ain't going anywhere. If I had to do this again I think I would look for a good replacement hub...

Thanks guys!

Has anyone had any success replacing studs on front wheel hubs (disc wheels)? I just discovered that my right front hub had a cracked outer bearing race (but still in one piece). It also appears that the race did a lot of rotating relative to the hub since it was a loose fit. Luckily, a front hub is one of the few spares that came with the car and it looks decent. However, the 50/50 chance of have the same thread direction on the studs as the bad hub didn't go in my favor. While I could just put left hand threads on the right side and it would be serviceable, I hate to do that... The studs appear to be pressed in which is still a common practice so I want to swap out the right hand studs into the good hub. I do have a 12 ton press but would welcome any tips for doing this. Should I heat the area around the stud first? Also, I was trying to remove the (good) inner race from this same ruined hub and found tapping them out with a punch ain't going to do it. Did they heat up the hubs to replace these? I don't recall seeing anything like that in the MIM or operator's manual.

Glad to hear you're making some progress Charley. One thing you might look at on the carb; it is possible to install the metering pin 'rack' gear at the wrong position on the pinion gear. This could have the effect of causing a much richer mixture. This is because the needle is tapered and when the dashpot piston is at its low position (idle), the metering jet will have the thicker part of the pin in the jet hole, thus a small area through which fuel can flow. As the throttle is opened, more air flow results in the piston rising and since the jet is affixed to the piston assembly, it moves up relative the metering pin. Since the upper part of the metering pin is smaller in diameter, the area between the jet and the pin gets larger, admitting more fuel. Have you tried to start it with no 'choke' at all?

Perhaps. As far as case hardening steel components, were the techniques much different then? I would think some of the durability improvements over the years were due to basic metallurgy and heat treat improvements. Lack of filtration sure didn't help.

Thanks for the ideas guys. I will definitely take a close look at the bolt and measure the post OD and bracket ID.

Gunson | G4074 | Colortune Single Plug Kit

Have you checked the plugs after trying to start? If they are soaked with gas perhaps flooding is the issue. There was (is?) a tool called Gunson's Color Tune which is essentially a spark plug with a short, flat top, quartz see-through insulator. I used to use one on my MGB to get the mixture right by looking at the color of the flame. It could also be used to see if there is a spark at all under compression. If they sold these in Oz perhaps you can track one down. Ah but you would also need an adapter for the 7/8-18 to a modern plug thread.

I'm thinking timing or maybe a bad vacuum leak. I don't have the magneto so I can't help you with timing set up there.

Yep, bushings all greased up. I'll check the clamp clearance too. It is tight enough that I can't move it by hand but it doesn't take much for the belt to go from tight to loose since there is very little stretch in it. Maybe the clearance is a little sloppy between the mount post and arm clamp hole. I might try to get some brass shim stock in there...

"Only a hundred thousand on a slant six, that just getting broken in!" normally yes but running unleaded gas in a high compression 'modern' engine that was designed to burn leaded will eventually have issues. I agree the 4 cylinder DB probably won't suffer from lack of ZDDP. I suspect it wasn't even added to oil back in the 1920's.

I would try dribbling a little gas over the carb air intake and then see if the engine at least coughs when you try and start it. If it does then you know fuel starvation is the problem.