MikeC5

Ray, I think someone mentioned that coils have been known to break down only when warmed up. I've not had this happen to me personally but you might try swapping in a 'modern' cylindrical coil and see if that cures things. I had a friend who used to purposely create backfires with his '67 Chevy. He would put the AT into low gear, run up the revs and then shut off the car and coast down. When he turned on the key again, boom! I was surprised how many times he was able to do it on one muffler...

I vote for the partially plugged exhaust system especially if the car has been sitting for a few weeks. The critters around here just love intakes and exhaust systems..

Nice!

I think I'll try that when I gt her back on the road in a few weeks...

Good point PD. The old brass floats have a tendency to develop small cracks. I bought a new repro from Meyers.

"You probably walked 15 miles in the snow to school in your bare feet when you were a kid, too." yes, and uphill both ways!

It's true you can't just open a catalog and order up whatever you need like the T and A guys... What fun would that be? The thrill of the hunt.. Good luck!

Glad to help getting another DB on the road. The way the choke is supposed to operate is when you pull out the dash knob, the pinion gear rotates to move the metering pin down relative to the piston (at rest in the down position). As a result, the tapering part of the needl;e opens a larger annulus between needle and jet thus richening the fuel to air ratio. From your description it sounds like you may be doing the opposite. The idea behind the piston is to maintain a constant f/a ratio and not simply metering the mass air flow (as a butterfly valve does). The piston responds to changing load (vacuum) and meters fuel via the tapered needle appropriately. If you ever seen S.U. carberetors on British cars, they use this principal also except the needle is connected to the piston and moves instead of the jet.

Yea it's not the gas. I suspect it is a carb issue. These carbs have a floating piston that regulates the fuel/air mixture and if were to get stuck it could cause your problem. The dash cable goes to a small 'rack and pinion' gear set up which is used to richen the mixture for cold starting. This could be maladjusted or stuck. These carbs are pretty easy to take apart and there is some technical information on them available on the web. Here is a link to some info: Stewart Carburetors reference book from 1927 especially for Dodge restorers.

I took this photo of a Packard top frame made using flat iron and longer wood bows at Hershey a couple of years ago. I was thinking it could be a way to fabricate a top frame using commonly found wrought iron. It would be hard to salvage your canvas though. Would it be possible to have one or two of the bows re-made with longer extension legs to prop the top up higher?

I have some good photos of the top on a (Budd body) touring car if you think they might be iof any help Ray.

I guess I'm lucky that mine is able to up-shift if one doesn't try to rush it.. Downshifting is something I haven't been successful with. I tried straight STP in the gearbox which is very thick but still no luck (just grinding). I've tried double clutching and rev matching but it may still very well be lack of skill on my part... I was surprised at how good the gears looked when pulled the top cover. They must be some really tough gears because I'm sure I'm not the only one who's ground them...

Sounds good Ray. Glad to hear you have the vacuum tank functioning properly. Have you pulled the ocver onth etrans to see why you can't do the 1-2 shift?

Interesting... I guess this was a time before fake landau bars were popular as pimpmobile accessories....

Nice car but did they really come with fake landau bars? I would remove them otherwise...

Perhaps he meant decreased clearance due to thermal expansion of the valves, etc. I always set the cold clearances a little on the high side for this reason.

Nice looking car there! Disc wheel were a popular option in the U.S. and those look correct. It appears someone retrofitted an electric fuel pump on the firewall. I'd get rid of that and check what the vacuum tank (mounted on the motor) looks like inside. The oil level hi/lo indicators are cast into the block. They are not easy to see if things are dirty in there. I've never seen nickel plated windshield stanchions before (nice idea). The engine is 221 cubic inch (iirc) and compression should be around 50 psi. Not sure about the paraffin...

I really appreciate the offer Bill but at this point I'm not sure what to make. The white piece (rotary valve) in the photos I made out of delrin. I have a lathe (old 9" South Bend) to turn the basic shape and then careful application of a small Dremel bit to hog out the groove. A hand file makes the flats on the end of the valve that mate to the lever mechanism. The lever mech has a spring loaded detent the limits movement to +/- 30 degrees from vertical center line. I suspect the 'timing' of when the groove connects vacuum source to port and when the vent hole releases vacuum at the opposing port is key to make this work. I've experimented with a couple of other timings but no luck.

Thanks Bill. So this is the type that usually has the pot metal casting coming apart? It looks good in the pics. Does it operate? I'll have to see if I can chase down anything on the patent date although my first attempt to search on the govt site was unsuccessful for the Eveready (which shows no patent numbers or dates). Searching by subject turned up nothing but I think one really has to read up on how to do searches. It's fairly complicated imho...

Hi Ray, I happen to be using Corel Paintshop Pro for drawing the diagrams on the photos. Most image processing software (Adobe Photoshop, etc.) have a feature to allow this type of thing. I have done work on old player pianos before and those a vacuum-based systems so... Good idea bout the patents.. worth a try. Dennis, if you can find these and they are actually vacuum motor (as opposed to the similar looking air pressure motors) I would certainly be interested in seeing photos of them.

I posted to the general forum regarding a cylindrical vacuum wiper I'm trying to restore if anyone is interested... http://forums.aaca.org/f169/eveready-vacuum-wiper-motor-338060.html

Well I'm hoping someone has one of these with the rotary valve intact. I've tried to reverse engineer how this worked and although close, I can't quite get it the piston to make the full stroke and then reverse direction. It stops when the lever gets about 1/2 way over and can't quite reverse the vacuum. The first photo shows the basic idea. The piston shuttle is one piece with a piston on each end. There is a small tang near each piston that trips the rotary valve actuating lever as the piston nears the far end of its chamber and reverses the application of vacuum to the opposite piston. The back of forth of the shuttle is translated into rotary left-right via the sliding track on the shuttle and the pins on the end of the wiper shaft (in first series of photos). Unfortunately, the rotary valve in this unit was missing so I'm guessing how it did its thing for my recreation in pic 3 and 4. I would really like to get a peek at how an original valve looked. I think it may be a timing issue/placement of vent holes...

Most bearings have numbers on them somewhere. Have you cleaned them and looked carefully? Any decent bearing place should be able to cross reference whatever number is on there to see if some other manufacturer makes and equivalent.

Ha ha! I wasn't trying to rush you Bill...

Sounds nice Bill. You are keeping the Dodge too I hope...