MikeC5

Thanks Pete. Mine are different unfortunately.... I'll post a photo of what I have tonight.

I seem to remember reading something about how Craig (of the list) is against this sort of nationwide searching on CL. Something about it being against the local character they prefer to enhance or something like that...

Has anyone got a good photo or two of how those clips are supposed to fit on the headlight buckets? (to secure the reflector and rim). I don't want to mangle them... There is a photo in one of the old D.B. Club newsletters but it isn't quite clear enough to see this detail..

Would one you 1925-ers do me the favor of posting the measurements of step plate locations (fore/aft) on your original running boards? I made some wooden running boards and would like to get the plates properly placed.

That is quite a ride!

That sounds like a pretty good gig!

Do these look like new Dodges to you? 12 by 18" Black White Picture 1925 Dodge New Touring Cars for Sale | eBay

Real nice work Ray. I'll have to try that on door handles, headlight trim rings a cowl light rings.

Very interesting...

I saw a car at Hershey a few years ago (1920's era) where the entire body was made of polished brass sheet... I'll see if I can dig up a photo of it.

You can always buy a new one

That too...

Great! The first ride after a long dormancy is very special.

I suspect you are right Ray. The dog bone is also fairly weighty which might exacerbate the problem too.

Test fitting some sheet metal and making up a rear floor board mock-up (using pine I had laying around the shop. I plan to use oak or maple for the real deal).

Here's a few photos Ray.

Is this a great forum or what?

Ray, I only removed the rivets for the license plate holder bracket because it would be difficult to get good plating on the aft face (which reflects on the main shell). New England Plating said the rivets on the sides were o.k. to leave. They certainly did a good job plating over them. I can take a few close up photos if you want.

They didn't seem concerned about all of the oil they lost when tipped over! Company cars and rental cars.... caveat emptor..

That's good 50% more than I paid a year ago Ray. Have you tried to get any second opinions?

Interesting... I haven't seen one of these cores before. It sounds like some of Bob's advice might also apply to honeycomb cores...

Glad you got it fixed. Some other nice looking machinery you have there!

Hi Ray, mine has a honeycomb core which probably means it was a re-core but the bottom most thread is about 3/8 inch from the top of radiator shell (decorative trim). As long as you get it straight I think anywhere from 3/16 to 3/8 would look O.K. As for the dog bone position, if you lost the index to the radiator body I wouldn't worry too much since a shim behind the rubber gasket can be used to change where it tightens up. I just plugged a couple of leaks on mine around the neck. If you are going DIY be careful with the torch... Too much heat can start unzipping good joints. I used some wet rags to try and contain the heated area locally.

Interesting stuff guys. I should have clarified that I never leave the plain water in there for more than a weekend. When I had the head off last year I really spent some time loosening up and removing rust and crud from the block water jackets and when I drain the system it comes out very clean. I really haven't run it enough to know what 'normal' is yet. I may try an anti-freeze/boil mixture to see if that helps with the after-boil. I don't doubt the honeycomb was a re-core done back in the day. Water seems to flow through it quite readily but I ave seen no specs for what flow rate should be. Has anyone tried to quantify it? As for the advance, I need to check the operator's manual again but I thought it said "retard spark fully to start then move to full advance once running" I didn't get the impression one didn't need to fiddle with it much once you got it going. I'm pretty sure I got the static timing correct but it wouldn't hurt to double check. Near as I could tell the distrubutor advance springs were in decent shape..

Um, well I don't mean to be picky but there are 25.4 mm to the inch so 2 mm is about 80 thousandths or 0.080". For reference, a human hair is roughly 0.003" which is less than 0.1 mm. This is the kind of stuff that can make bridges fall down...