MikeC5

Nice find! Just clean it up and go...

That makes sense.. if using machined plugs I think it would be better to weld them in. Cutting new shackles from plate stock would also do the job but I would miss the nice details of the forging. I'm going to try re-using mine as-is. As long as I don't hear any rattles I'll live with it.

When you say 'plug with good quality steel'; if not welding would you overbore the hole and then press fit a steel plug? It sounds like you would end up with a steel bushing in there when finished. When over boring the shackle it seems you would have to size it so you ended up with some minimum (bushing) wall thickness so final bore of the 5/8" hole is copacetic (if wall gets too thin I think you would lose sufficient interference fit causing machining problems). I wonder if there is a rule of thumb on sizing the over bore (or calculation) to prevent such. Perhaps I'm thinking too much?

I don't think a mid-late 60's Spider would be too complicated. You're in the right part of the country to find one that isn't a rust bucket. You should check on availability of parts (and prices) before committing though.

I am leaning towards just new bolts & bushings. The sides of the shackles where they ride against the spring eye and frame are a bit buggered up too but a little filing should take care of that. It wasn't easy getting the old bushings out. I had to resort to carefully filing down one spot along the length of the bushing to cut it through and relieve the interference fit in order to get them out. I may need some liquid nitrogen to get the new ones in...

I pulled the rear leaf spring links off one side on my '25 as it appeared bushings were well worn. A lot of wear also took place on the bolts where they contact the links. The links themselves don't look to bad but there is some egg shaping to the holes (0.015- 0.020"). I'm thinking to weld build up these areas and re-machine as repro links are $70 a pop. I'm pretty sure these are forged pieces. Anyone have any experience doing this?

Or this... http://hartford.craigslist.org/cto/4230296350.html

If you haven't done any wrench turning at all I think (as mentioned above) learning to do routine maintenance on your (or family) daily driver. That's where I started learning just changing oil, spark plugs, etc. If you have done that kind of thing then getting and old beater and learning to repair it is another way if you plan on it as a hobby. A car club is a good idea too where you can put the word out you're looking for a late 50's, early 60's fixer upper. You should be able to find something like this where you are: http://hartford.craigslist.org/cto/4270352253.html

Seller says the blue paint is called Washington blue. I really like it; trouble is it is a color name used by more than one mfgr. The Ford version is much darker looking....

Glad you fixed the problem. On the bright side, you're way ahead on fuel system preventative maintenance.

I was thinking about the air valve in the carb sticking too. If it can't ride up as throttle is opened, the fuel/air ratio will go lean (the jet can't move relative to the tapered needle). But as mentioned earlier in this thread a shortage of gas isn't expected to produce excessive carbon. It should be easy to obtain a 'modern' condenser and try it (a John Deere dealer should have them on hand).

Neat project! I like the OHV 6.

I did look in the MIM and didn't see anything like that.

Thanks guys. That makes sense. It almost sounded like it was some sort of quick disconnect piston the way the author mentions it...

I was perusing through the DBC News CDs and came across an article on a '24 touring car restoration (AS95). In discussing the engine the author says "I install four new exhaust valves and pull the pistons, which have “pop-up” tops. They and the rings look good, so I reinstall them." I haven't heard this terminology before. Does anyone know what pop-up pistons are?

I just did this mod but haven't tested it yet. I used a 70 amp max rms diode with stud as cathode. I used the coil holding bracket as a heat sink (removed the coil/points). I do prefer whenever possible to keep things original but the risk of points sticking and frying the generator is not a risk I care to take. Researching it gave me the impression this failure mode is not that uncommon.

Try McMaster-Carr. They do have some woven stuff in different widths.

I'm pretty sure there is a bushing in there. It's been a while since I had the column apart and I didn't take a picture of it disassembled. The horn collector ring is bakelite and doesn't support the steering shaft.

Post some pics.

Flim-flam on E-bay? Say it ain't so!

Thanks very much DodgeKCL. There is a supplier here that offers starter boxes with this update but I'm sure I can do this myself.

Any suggestions on where to obtain the diode in U.S.?

Hi Jason, I did this way back in late 80's on a slant 6 in a '65 Barracuda I drove for many years. I know I had some photos but they are unfortunately not of the digital variety and are buried in a box somewhere. This link should help, it appears you will need a double groove crankshaft pulley and water pump pulley. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=231734

That's funny Pete.. It had crossed my mind to just bend the flange over a bit.... we'll see.

Hi Nick, Bracket 4 should be like in the attached photo (it could be easily fabricated by any sheet metal shop). Bracket 1 should be a mirror image of bracket 3 (on right). Not sure about number 3 in center. The support rod could easily be fabricated from an appropriate diameter solid rod with threads tapped on each end (one end must match those in rad). The other end can be whatever threads are convenient. A nut and washer on each side of firewall anchors the rod and gives some adjustment for getting rad perpendicular to frame and/or parallel gap to front edge of bonnet. If you want to get fancy you can heat the rod in central spot and hammer a flat in it for gripping with a spanner to tighten (see arrow in pic 2).