MikeC5

Not before spring Bill, maybe this summer if work isn't too crazy. I wish you good luck with the Buick. Are parts for that much easier to find?

Now there's an analogy I can really relate to...

Jay, I did remove the license plate mount strap and they did that piece separately. I didn't remove the hood hinge.

We must have been typing at the same time Ray...

Also, it is my understanding that when you get a part re-nickel or chrome plated the prep involves copper plating first, then nickel and if you opt for chrome it happens after the copper and nickel. So it might be expected that nickel plating would be one less step and thus a little less expensive. I theory anyway...

That is another valid approach Jason. I also thought about just painting it body color but I think the Brothers intent was to add a little pizazz. If chrome had been available a few years earlier I think they would have used it...

If I were going for concourse, AACA trophies and the like it would have been nickel plated but the amount of DIY rust repair on this ride precludes that sort of thing. Plus, I'm not a car wax junkie nor is the idea of buffing nickel one of life's great pleasures. I guess I'm just not a purist's purist in some respects...

I believe I read it somewhere on the AACA site that by the end of the 20's most manufacturers had switched to chrome.

Hi Jay, I had it re-plated with chrome at New England Chrome Plating in East Hartford, CT. They did a very nice job. I think they also do nickel plating and I know that would be correct for the 25 but I can't easily see the difference and chrome is supposed to hold its shine better/longer.

Wow all I needed was a baseball bat? The idea of using soft weld wire seems like a good one, especially if you are making curved edges. Luckily I only had to do that one straight piece...

Hi Doug, I did it before I reinstalled the windshield assy on the car but I don't see why you couldn't leave it on the car. If you tilt it out so bottom is toward radiator I think there is enough room to get it started (there is a small area where the channel is wider to facilitate getting the new piece in - at least there was on my '25 touring car). I put some liquid soap/water solution on it to help make it easy to slide. The only thing that may still prompt you to remove the assembly from the car is if pieces of the old seal are still stuck in the channel. I'm guessing it would be much more difficult to clean it out while it is on the car. I don't remember if you have a sedan or touring but on the touring it is pretty easy to remove the windshield. The stanchion bolts will need to be loosened, then the acorn bolts on the sides removed. There are (supposed to be) ball bearings in there for the tilt mechanism which will fall out. If you lose any Tom Meyers does have them available. Grease helps to keep them in place upon reassembly.

Ray I agree totally with you on the series 2. It was a retrograde step from the integrated look of the original headlights. Even worse was the series 3 where the flared the front wheel arches and added the large grill. I don't think I would touch one with advanced corrosion. I imagine you would be very prone to distorting the monocoque without the proper fixtures when welding. And then there are the V8 conversions that were popular here! Talk about sacrilege... How did you become an honorary life member of JDC?

Very nice!

The bead was simply made by clamping the patch in the vise and hammering the rest over into an L-shape, then taken out of the vise and the short end of the L hammered over so it's really more of a fold than bead. No fancy metal working tools here (except the MIG welder if that counts). It is tricky to get it lined up with the crank hole, especially with the rad installed. It isn't perfectly centered but close enough when the hole plug is in. Thanks for the nice words. And thank you for the offer Country Traveler but I think I'll get this one good enough (it's almost finished). I suspect you will find others here may be interested in one.

I'm no expert Ray but I suspect you are on the right track with trying a substitute coil and condenser. I do know what you mean about trying to get starting fluid in there too... I've always had a 'thing' for E-Types. I had an opportunity to buy a very nice '70 roadster back in 1985 (when I was 25) for $12K. That was a lot of money then I guess but I was closer to affording it then than now!

A little progress on the front apron...

60 mph Dave! You are brave one... In regards to the question "do the vibes remain if you put it in neutral at that speed?", are you saying they do remain or not Tony? You could hook up an electric tachometer and see what rpm it is occurring at. Then see if it will repeat under no load (stationary). In more modern machines, I encountered this kind of periodicity if a wheel was bent.

Since we're on the subject, does anyone know if the disc wheels popular on teens/twenties Dodge Brothers vehicles are consdered split rim? There is a split retainer on the outer side of the wheel that goes around next to the tire bead and appears to lock into the rim somehow. I'm not sure if one of those rim tools would help here.

It's been a while since I did mine ('25) but if I recall correctly, the drive gear and impeller used woodruff keys so the gear does slide off (I don't remember if it took much force). These (crappy) photos seem to back up my memory. However, is a 25 water pump the same as a '17? Hopefully someone else here can tell you.

There always seems to be DB carbs on fleabay so I would guess finding decent spare parts shouldn't be too difficult.

Hi Dan, top irons don't come up for sale very often (I've been looking for a year). I finally bought a pair of an unknown make which appear to be close enough. The wood bows are easier to source since there are some people who can do the steam bending of the oak. The DBs are not like a Model T or A where you can just pick up a catalog and order up whatever is needed. Good luck with your search. Post some photos of your car when you get a chance.

These carbs remind me of the S.U. carbs on my MGB. They both use a tapered needle to meter the fuel flow based on engine load/manifold vacuum. The main difference is that the in the DB carb the jet moves relative to a stationary needle while in the S.U., the opposite occurs.

Nice find! I've never seen one before but I think it looks pretty cool. Good luck with it.

That's a beauty Richard. Those running board and fender trim pieces really dress it up.

It sounds good too! You would have to have some big cahunas to do this stunts while sitting up that high...