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Found 25 results

  1. Hi everyone, I have just purchased a 1926 Buick 2 door and I need all tires and probably tubes. I believe they are 31x5.25 but I haven't gotten the car yet so they may be different. These are the type where the rim comes off of the wooden wheel. Any help or sources would be appreciated. Thanks Bob
  2. 1926 Ford Model T Coupe, black, clean title, all steel body, full Jaguar front and rear end suspension, Donovan built All-Aluminum Polished Small Block 350 Chevy, wire wheels, etched glass. Was my dads, looking to sell it or get into something different. Make an offer! Will sell less motor.
  3. Wonderfully original 1926 Model T sports roadster. Frontenac OHV model T (touring) head, Zenith 5HPS side draft carb, Bosch distributor and Bosch spark plugs, water pump and Ruckstell 2 speed axle. Factory sport options including bumpers, wire wheels, nickel radiator, dash light, AC speedometer w/transmission mounted Paterson speedometer drive (needs new drive gear). No evidence of any rust to the frame or body. Painted and upholstery about 1964 and has some dents, nicks and scratches, leather seats have cracks and a few places where the stuffing is poking thru. Motor still has cast iron pistons so your chance to experience a Frontenac like it was in the day. Sympathetic cleaning, new 6V battery, hoses, spark plug wires have returned it to running condition. Shows well and runs great. Dog not included, and she will very much miss this one. Questions happily answered and more photos available. Possible delivery to Hershey Price $18,500. Wsloewenthal*at*aol*dot*com or call (four, four, zero_796_4689)
  4. I am looking for a good Gas Tank for my 11A . André
  5. I have a 1926 Pontiac radiator shell laying around that I have had for quite some time. I sold the project that this was going to go on and it's been in storage for a couple of years. If anyone is interested I would love to see it get used. Finish isn't the best but no dents or rust through. Pontiac emblem is missing. Let me know if you are interested. I was hoping to get my money back out of it, around $225 but I am willing to work a deal or trade. I am looking for 1916-25 dodge roadster decklid or 1916-1922 dodge brothers roadster doors. Quickest response back would be if you email me.
  6. I have up for sale or trade a fully restored 1926 Ford Model T Doctors Coupe. I had a $30,000 frame up restoration done to it about two years ago. I am open to all trades except 4 doors. Asking $14,000 Cash obo. I am located in Pemberton, Nj. Call or Text 609-313-5678
  7. I have up for sale or trade a fully restored 1926 Ford Model T Doctors Coupe. I had a $30,000 frame up restoration done to it about two years ago. I am open to all trades except 4 doors. Asking $14,000 Cash obo. I am located in Pemberton, Nj.
  8. I'm in need of help please. I replaced my distributor and then checked the gap on the points. The book said to gap at 1/32. Not the car over heats. Does anyone have any suggestions? Also if someone knows what to torque the head bolts to would help. The book says to just tighten evenly.
  9. A few more pictures added below: 1 Pair - Guide Ray Headlamps Drum Style. Type - A Believed to be from a 1926 Peerless sedan. Very good condition. Little Rust. Bulbs and Lenses are intact. Headlamps are located in Boston, MA. Please contact with offers or for more information. Thank you, Rich 404 803 6351 adthings@mindspring.com
  10. An elderly freind in the car lcub has a really nice aluminum-bodied 1926 Cadillac V8 coupe that is in dire need of a distributor. He has had the car for close to ten years, and that is all that is keeping it from running. Does anyone out there have a rebuildable 1926 Cadillac Delco distributor? Or know of a way to substitute something else? He's in his upper eighties now and in poor helath - I'd like to see him get it running before it's too late. I've had no luck walking Hershey the past few years. Bob Stein Norfolk VA 757-270-3689 (cell) posti@aol.com
  11. Hello, I've almost finished restoring a 1926 Pontiac in Australia but still need a speedometer. I understand it should be an AC which reads up to 75 or 80 mph and includes a trip meter that can be reset. The opening on the instrument panel is 2.5". Does anyone have a good one or one that is suitable for restoration? Cheers, Ryan
  12. Hello, I am nearing completion of my 1926 Pontiac Tourer restoration in Australia. I have some fragments of the original interior trim and believe it was dark brown leather. I would like to keep it as original as possible but have been recommended to use vinyl. The reasons given were that modern leather production isn't the same as the 1920s anyway and the additional cost isn't justified. I'm hoping to get some more opinions and hoefully some first hand experiences in terms of appearance and durability? Cheers, Ryan
  13. The flywheel on the '26 engine weighs over 150 lbs alone. Along with the multiple clutch we are talking about over 200lbs of weight. Is all that weight necessary? I wouldn't think so since V8's use a flywheel & clutch assy that weighs 1/4 of that weight. The question I have is, "Has there been anyone who has converted this huge flywheel weight & multiple clutch to a lighter flywheel and a regular clutch plate??" Thanks/Lee
  14. Restoring my engine. Can anyone tell me what the engine paint color was in year 1926. I believe they did paint the engines back then didn't they? For some reason I am thinking it was gray rather than the common green in the 60's etc. If anyone knows and where to purchase the paint I would surely appreciate it. Thanks/Lee
  15. 1924 Ford Model-T, these were known as "doctor's coupes", black with grey upholstery, 3000 miles on original rebuilt engine, hydraulic brakes added to rear, so the brakes perform like today's cars. This T has a original engine that was rebuilt to modern standards with a heavy crank shaft, it has an original B/W overdrive from the 20's that was used on many old cars, and disk brakes were added on the rear instead of the inside the transmission band that was stock. The T-Model has been converted to 12 volts with electronic ignition inside the distributor. (If someone wanted to go back to the old wiring methods, I have several coils that I can include with the car.) This 1924 Model T doctors coupe is in great shape and has been touring three tours a year for the past ten years without a breakdown. It has a Model A crank and balanced engine. It is a very dependable car to drive. $10,900. 336-765-8312. email: wwhitfield@triad.rr.com This Model-T is located in Okeechobee, Florida, delivery assistance available world wide.
  16. Hey loyal DB folks, I have an old '26 DB Business Coupe that I promised I'd drive in the 4th of July Parade for the Cub Scouts... I can't get the car started using the key. For some reason when I put in the key and turn to the Right, (with the clutch and brake pressed), I don't hear the generator motor kick on (...that wonderful little humming noise). However, when I stepping on the starter button, the motor turns over vigourosly but the engine doesn't fire... Up to this time I've driven the car freely and it starts up the first time each time...even in the winter. At first I thought the battery didn't have enough charge so I charged the battery, lights come on, the starter turns the engine but not generator noise. I think something is wrong with the ingition switch and it's not making contact... as the Ammeter doesn't move when I turn the key, nor do I hear the generator. I think that if I could somehow bypass the starter switch, I should be able to get power to the Ammeter and thus to the generator. So my question is: if I took a lead and clipped it to a solid ground, and then clipped the other end to the negative post on the Ammeter, would that effectively bypass the switch and allow power to flow to the Ammeter and eventually the Generator...and let me drive the car as long as that connection is maintained? Not good enough with electricity to understand why the starter switch (on the floor) is getting power but not the Ammeter /Generator. I've added a diagram to describe what I want to do. I want to drive the car in the 4th of July Parade for the Cub Scouts but cannot get the darn thing started. Please let me know. Shawn
  17. Guest

    Year round drivers

    Hi there, How many Model T's out there still drive year round? We enjoy our 1926 during all of the seasons, we even use it to go grocery shopping... it's an awesome old car...and starts better than any of my other toys! This car is mostly original, except for rebuilding the wheels, rear axle, generator, etc....just normal stuff.
  18. I am amazed with the technology used in the 1926 Chryslers. Hydraulic brakes, efficient motors and transsimions, rear end, etc, but am more amazed with the very poor tire/rim mounting. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p> </o:p> How in the F do you mount the tire on the rims? I got the tire off (pain in the A), installed new tube and the rubber liner thing. Now the CS tire won’t mount…. <o:p> </o:p> Help!
  19. Hello, I have started restoring a 1927 Pontiac Tourer that was originally owned by my great, great Uncle. I have a quick question about the carby on the original 186ci engine. From my research it would have been a Carter DR-0 single barrel updraft from new but must have been swapped with a Tillotson single barrel updraft at some stage. It looks like it will need to be re-built so I was thinking of returning it to an original Carter unit. I tracked one down at THE CARBURETOR SHOP however they are asking US$1200 and it would still need to be re-built (it does include what they call a minor kit) plus postage to Australia. I’m not familiar with old carburettors, their availability or what you would expect to pay. This does seem expensive but I was hoping for your thoughts? Thank you, Ryan
  20. Hi We have owned a 1926 oldsmobile for over 11 yrs. Unfortunately the engine has had to be rebuilt. In removing it and sending it away we have lost the Crank Shaft Thrust Plates. The Parts Catalogue shows it to be: 58S Part No. 388668 Crank Shaft Thrust plate Thick 2nd type C D and E series. The engine is a Type 30 D 3 bearing Crank. Could anyone help us source these replacement parts. Regards Sonia & Peter
  21. Wow, you guys are helpful. As I reported in my last thread my engine appeared to be overheating. I received incredibly good feedback and tried to adhere to all of it. I took off the water pump and used the resulting port to flush out the engine. Quite a bit of rust and gunk came out. I flushed the radiator in reverse and then put a garden hose with a narrowed tip into the water pump port and flushed it some more. Two weeks ago I got a 180 degree temperature and overflowed within an hour. Now the temperature gauge shows 160 degrees, increasing to 170 degrees when sitting at idle. I used a Micro Temp laser gauge to measure temperature in the radiator and obtained the following results in degrees F, going from top to bottom in four rows, 186, 172, 184 169, 168, 172 164, 163, 166 159, 166, 167 Could anyone tell me if these temperatures in a honeycomb radiator represent reasonable temperatures. I was running for ten miles at a top speed of 45mph. Ambient temperature was about 65 degrees. The engine coolant was water with water wetter. The engine did not appear to overheat and ran quite smoothly. Thoughts. Thanks again for all of your help. Steve:D
  22. Guest

    1926 sales newsletter needed

    I purchased a 1926 Speedster that was owned by Cornelius Vanderbilt recently. I am told that there was a sales newsletter sent to dealers at the time the car was delivered to Vanderbilt that featured this vehicle. Does anyone have a copy of this newsletter. It would mean a lot. I would be pleased to pay anything reasonable. Thanks, Steve
  23. I replaced the original carb with a new Zenith with an acc pump. For some reason it is very difficult to cold start. I have to spray lots of starter fluid. I suspect the motor does not create enough vacuum to properly operate the carb. Can someone recommend a good carb and/or suggest a fix for my current carb? Thx!
  24. Need a cylinder head for my 1928 Chrysler Series 62. I have a friend looking for several items for his 1926 Imperial. He needs shocks, door handles and a visor. Thanks, Robert Soule rms@chryslercrazy.comffice:office" /><O:p></O:p>
  25. I need a 1926 Buick Water Pump. I will take any condition. I prefer good condition, but at this point, I will take anything.
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