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Found 5 results

  1. As you should be able to see in the pics, I have only taken this out of the box. It has not been installed or altered from its new condition. What I know for sure is what the box says -- Wiring Harness --for 1946 Ford. why I have it I bought this a couple years ago for my 1942 Ford. I was new to the "restoring" thing and had been told if it fit what I have I better buy it. I WAS NOT TOLD THIS BY THE PERSON I GOT THIS FROM Anyway, when i saw a in new condition wiring harness for what should have been the same as my car I bought it. This weekend I started installing the new wiring, I had bought several more pieces as I found them, and found out this will not fit a 1942 Ford Deluxe with a 6 cylinder. Price is $60 shipped, in the USA only.
  2. Hey loyal DB folks, I have an old '26 DB Business Coupe that I promised I'd drive in the 4th of July Parade for the Cub Scouts... I can't get the car started using the key. For some reason when I put in the key and turn to the Right, (with the clutch and brake pressed), I don't hear the generator motor kick on (...that wonderful little humming noise). However, when I stepping on the starter button, the motor turns over vigourosly but the engine doesn't fire... Up to this time I've driven the car freely and it starts up the first time each time...even in the winter. At first I thought the battery didn't have enough charge so I charged the battery, lights come on, the starter turns the engine but not generator noise. I think something is wrong with the ingition switch and it's not making contact... as the Ammeter doesn't move when I turn the key, nor do I hear the generator. I think that if I could somehow bypass the starter switch, I should be able to get power to the Ammeter and thus to the generator. So my question is: if I took a lead and clipped it to a solid ground, and then clipped the other end to the negative post on the Ammeter, would that effectively bypass the switch and allow power to flow to the Ammeter and eventually the Generator...and let me drive the car as long as that connection is maintained? Not good enough with electricity to understand why the starter switch (on the floor) is getting power but not the Ammeter /Generator. I've added a diagram to describe what I want to do. I want to drive the car in the 4th of July Parade for the Cub Scouts but cannot get the darn thing started. Please let me know. Shawn
  3. Hey, I hit a bad bump and the radio AND the power mirror stopped working, I cant find a wiring diagram. I looked around a bit a dont see anything wrong yet, Where would you start?
  4. Forgive me if this is a redundant question, but I was hoping for some clarification... I'm bypassing the audio set-up in my 89 and installing a completely separate system. I'm currently working on wiring the head-unit, but am unsure of which wires to use. I believe I see three different harnesses connected to the module ( one blue, one white, and one black - each with there own set of wires). Basically, I'm looking for help on which are the correct wires to connect to my aftermarket receiver. I'm running patch cables to the amps, so really I'd like input on the power ignition wire, power battery wire, and ground. I see the pin # configurations on the module, but was still unclear. I'd like for the new system to power on when the car starts, and was afraid that if I used a wire from the wrong auxilary without knowing, I might have to hit play on the CRT everytime I want it to work. Thanks in advance, Justin
  5. For anyone who has done any wiring through the firewall, I was wondering where the best spot was? I'm hooking up 2 amps in the trunk and wanted to see if anyone has found an available slot or if you had to drill one, where you decided to put it. Thanks
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